What Do You Make Of This Dent?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 2
From: Belgium
With forks, stems, and bars...all critical points for failure to occur and can lead to catastrophic injuries it is best to replace if there is any question about it. So since you are posting a question then it is my recommendation that you should just buy a replacement.
If you are not satisfied with the above response then you can take some automotive bondo to fill the dent and then paint over the entire stem to cover the repair.
-j
If you are not satisfied with the above response then you can take some automotive bondo to fill the dent and then paint over the entire stem to cover the repair.
-j
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Likes: 4
After seen zillions of steel , AL and Ti bikes with dents, cracks i really doubt that stem will fail any day soon and probably never. As for how to fix the dent, you cant fix it unless you want to add some plastic putty used for aluminum body work (I imagine that will work because no idea if there is one for Ti) and paint the stem over it, besides that pretty much there is not much to do.
Just in case, how in the world did you manage to get a dent in there?? 1st time i see something like that.
Good luck.
Just in case, how in the world did you manage to get a dent in there?? 1st time i see something like that.
Good luck.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,327
Likes: 1,112
From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
It is without a doubt going to fail catastrophically, without warning, causing you to die a horrible, lingering death. It would be best for you to send it to me immediately for proper safe disposal!
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,180
Likes: 0
From: Sunnyvale, California
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder
Simple test. Install the stem into a test bike (a junker). Slide some old handlebars in and tighten. Lay a piece of plywood over stem and bars. Put a scale under the front fork; load up 200 lbs, and now add extra weight with hands on the bars. Push hard up and down. See if you can max out the scale. If that works and the stem shows no signs of deformation, you're probably good to go. Normal working load is about 40% of body weight on the front wheel. The handlebars get maybe 25%. So if you're max'ing out the scale (and mine goes to 400lbs) and bouncing a little up and down hopefully flexing the bars, you're probably going to be okay with a pretty big safety factor.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
I agree that the stem is sound. Ti is awfully tough stuff and hard to damage significantly. A light aluminum stem with that dent would bother me but not Ti and particularly not in that spot.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
With any question like this, we tend to see 2 groups of replies. One group says if you even suspect a safety issue, replace it without question. The other group says wait a minute, that thing is still plenty strong and there's no way you're going to break in normal riding. No disrespect whatsoever to the first group, but I'm in the second. Certainly you can test it by applying some extreme force by doing something like what gyozadude suggests. Of course I'd watch for any deformation or cracking over time, but it doesn't seem remotely likely to me.
#12
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,987
Likes: 1,169
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
That is so minor I wouldn't have given it a second thought, let alone take the time to photograph & post.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,563
Likes: 736
From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Ti is tough to machine and form and it's demanding and unforgiving of poor welding technique so that's a lot of the reason for it's cost premium. Done right it's very durable and, indeed, can be an heirloom.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 428
Likes: 3
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: 2003 Lemond Zurich; 1987 Schwinn Tempo; 1968 PX10; 1978 PX10LE, Peugeot Course; A-D Vent Noir
Of all the places where you could have a structurally significant dent on a bike (main frame tubes, chain and seat stay tubes, and fork stearing tube and blades), this dent on the bar stem would give me the least worry...I'd think of it as a mere cosmetic blemish.
#24
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 6,660
Likes: 177
It is prone to fatigue fractures and requires a skilled weldor and proper gas shielding until the weldment cools below 800F.





