Odd Click driving me crazy
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Odd Click driving me crazy
Hey guys, I hate to ask, but I have an annoying click. The click comes when I'm out of the saddle cranking hard, and it sounds like one click for each rotation of the crank. No matter if I apply pressure on both pedals of just one, the click is there. At first, I thought it was my pedals. Luckily, I was in the process of upgrading those anyway, but the click didn't go away. The setup is a compact ultegra 6700 with 11-28 cassette. Also has a k-edge chain catcher if that makes a difference. I cannot reproduce this sound while seated and spinning, or spinning while I am working on the bike, only when I stand out of the saddle. Any help with this?
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 749
Likes: 1
From: Northern Virginia
Bikes: Specialized Crux Elite X1, Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert, Specialized Crux Disc
Okay, I just went through this, and I don't have the answer 
I was getting clicks, was driving me nuts. Talked to the LBS where I got my Madone, told me to bring it in.
So here's the hitch. I put it in the bike stand, washed the bike because it was really dirty, and the click went away. How weird is that? I talked to the LBS and he figures I had a piece of something in the BB or somewhere that got washed out. I didn't use high pressure, just some cleaner and a gentle rinse. Could have been something in the chain also, I guess.
But my hearing isn't the best, and I could not determine where it was coming from. This was weeks ago, and it has not resurfaced.

I was getting clicks, was driving me nuts. Talked to the LBS where I got my Madone, told me to bring it in.
So here's the hitch. I put it in the bike stand, washed the bike because it was really dirty, and the click went away. How weird is that? I talked to the LBS and he figures I had a piece of something in the BB or somewhere that got washed out. I didn't use high pressure, just some cleaner and a gentle rinse. Could have been something in the chain also, I guess.
But my hearing isn't the best, and I could not determine where it was coming from. This was weeks ago, and it has not resurfaced.
__________________
Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
#4
Carpe Velo
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 18
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '90 Bianchi Volpe,'94 Yokota Grizzly Peak, Yokota Enterprise, '16 Diamondback Haanjo, '91 Bianchi Boardwalk, Ellsworth cruiser
Some recent clicks I have had and the solutions:
-Left crank clicks when pedal is at 3:00 forward position on the downstroke. Fix: replaced worn bottom bracket.
-Soft sounding click that is not in sync with any rotating part or clearly tied to a specific action. Fix: Water bottle was shaking against it's cage. tightened cage by bending it slightly.
-Left crank clicks when pedal is at 3:00 forward position on the downstroke. Fix: replaced worn bottom bracket.
-Soft sounding click that is not in sync with any rotating part or clearly tied to a specific action. Fix: Water bottle was shaking against it's cage. tightened cage by bending it slightly.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 243
Likes: 1
From: Albany, NY
Bikes: 89 Bianchi Campione d'Italia upgraded with 10 speed Ultegra/105, '92 Trek 1100 8 speed, bar end shifters
A ticking sount almost drove me mad while setting up one of my own bikes. After about 20 mins, I realized it was a little rubber nub from the tire slapping against the chain stay.
#6
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Redmond WA
I chased a clicking sound like the one you describe for nearly 4 months. It turned out to be one of my pedals; torqued them down and it went away. These sounds can be a major pain, hope your doesn't return!
#7
Carpe Velo
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,519
Likes: 18
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '90 Bianchi Volpe,'94 Yokota Grizzly Peak, Yokota Enterprise, '16 Diamondback Haanjo, '91 Bianchi Boardwalk, Ellsworth cruiser
I've also encountered those molding nubs rubbing up against a brake pad. Since they are almost invisible while the wheel is spinning, you look at it and there does not appear to be anything rubbing, but you can hear it. Those nubs drove me nuts for a while.
#8
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 404
Likes: 4
From: Malden, MA.
Bikes: 2009 Masi, 2014 Specialized Crossroads 1975 Schwinn Unicycle
It's a modern bike, it would drive me to drink much faster. Try the back wheel, make sure its in there straight and enough quick release skewer. Watch the front derailer moving, when you have it in the repair stand. Just thought of the brake and derailler cable ends, might rub the tire,or what ever. Its making a pedaling noise vs. a freewheeling or coasting noise. I'd check the the pedal axles have no severe "slop" to them. The pedal axle threads should have some grease on them. You don't put any grease on the BB Spindle bolts or nuts. Several bike books say just your natural oil on your fingers is enough. Sorry to write a long boring reply. Chris
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: 2005 Fuji Cross Pro, 2006 Allez Sport, Mid 70's French Bike named 'Pierre'
I spent a long time trying to track down a once a crank revolution click. It turned out to be the end of front derailleur cable hitting the right crank every spin. I felt like an idiot. At least I was successful at getting it to stop after bending it out of the way.
#10
I had the same issue on a new bike after @ 100 miles. After systematically removing bottle cages, pump, re-greasing pedals and bottom bracket, I finally traced it to the two machine screws that attach the derailleur hanger. Seems they came loose during those 100 miles and probably weren't tightened enough in the first place.
The problem with clicks is they resonate through the frame, making it really difficult to trace.
The problem with clicks is they resonate through the frame, making it really difficult to trace.
#11
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Check out a good thread on this - www.lfgss.com/thread27637.html#post2815911. Also, Sheldon (all hail Oh Mighty One) has a good section on it.
#12
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
Likes: 12
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
OK, first ignore any comments that don't have to do with the crank, bb and pedals. We can't tell you what it is, and guessing does not help either. Only you can eliminate the possibilities one by one.
1. With the crank arms level put one foot on each pedal and flex up and down with your knees. Rotate 180 degrees and repeat. If the click occurs, remove the pedals and place your feet on the crank arms instead and repeat. If the click does not occur likely is the pedals, go to step 2. If still there go to step 3
2. Replace pedals after lubing threads and cleaning the face of the crank arms that the pedals butt against, and tighten firmly. Repeat, process - if click not gone inspect pedals for cracks, etc, possbibly overhaul, or replace.
3. Remove crank arms, clean off any foreign matter on mating parts with solvent and then steel wool if there is any corrosion, replace crank arms, tighten properly and test again. If click gone fixed, if not then disassemble bearing, clean any parts of bearing and frame that mate and reassemble.
1. With the crank arms level put one foot on each pedal and flex up and down with your knees. Rotate 180 degrees and repeat. If the click occurs, remove the pedals and place your feet on the crank arms instead and repeat. If the click does not occur likely is the pedals, go to step 2. If still there go to step 3
2. Replace pedals after lubing threads and cleaning the face of the crank arms that the pedals butt against, and tighten firmly. Repeat, process - if click not gone inspect pedals for cracks, etc, possbibly overhaul, or replace.
3. Remove crank arms, clean off any foreign matter on mating parts with solvent and then steel wool if there is any corrosion, replace crank arms, tighten properly and test again. If click gone fixed, if not then disassemble bearing, clean any parts of bearing and frame that mate and reassemble.
#13
Legs; OK! Lungs; not!
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 10
From: Coral Springs, FL
Bikes: ''09 Motobecane Immortal Pro (Yellow), '02 Diamondback Hybrid, '09 Lamborghini Viaggio, ''11 Cervelo P2
I developed a click associated with the crank rotation. At first I suspected the right pedal as it seemed to go away if I took my foot of the pedal and only pedaled with the left foot. Unfortunately (or fortunately) it was not the pedal.
I was reluctant to suspect the BB but when the pedal was not it, I looked closely at the frame. No apparent problem. I pulled the BB. The right cup appeared ok, but when I pulled to covers off, the grease was rusty.
Today I pulled the cups again and cleaned and re-greased the bearings. Went for a test spin. Still there. I've ordered new BB. We'll know next week.
I was reluctant to suspect the BB but when the pedal was not it, I looked closely at the frame. No apparent problem. I pulled the BB. The right cup appeared ok, but when I pulled to covers off, the grease was rusty.
Today I pulled the cups again and cleaned and re-greased the bearings. Went for a test spin. Still there. I've ordered new BB. We'll know next week.





