Ok I look in the thersaurus for a word other than problem and it actually listed 'can of worms'

So here is the issue. I have a older 105 SC wheel/hub and the spacing is not right. It it is the pearl finish and I think the model number is 1055 or 56 it is wiped of a bit, but it does not have Intigrated 8 on it, should it? There is an 8spd freehub body on it but the locknut barely protrudes past the lockring of the cassette or the body for that matter. The locknut spacing is just shy of 130 at 129.xxx.

I am asuming either someone stuck the 8spd body on an 7spd hub and did not change the axle. Or a 8spd hub was respaced to make it fit the bike this wheel came off of.

WHat is the simplest way to make it a 135 spaced hub again?

I have a STX 7 MTB hub here can I use the axle and spacers and put that in the 105 hub w/ the 105 cones? Or is there a good source to simply get a complete 105 spd axle set.


Thanks for your help and I will give any additional info you may want. I am not sure if pics will help but I'll post them if you want them.

Actually, a road hub would be 130, not 135. If you want to make it 135 to fit on a frame that is spaced that way- a touring frame likely, you will need to swap the axle. I'm not 100% sure that the STX axle is exactly the same, but it is likely that Shimano uses the same threading across their product line.

I have a 105 7sp and the spacing is 126mm.

135 would be preferable as I have several road wheels built around the STX hub and frames set to match.

The longer axle and spacers would be the way to go. I would try the STX stuff- because you have it on hand already. If it doesn't fit, the try to find one that does.

How wide is the original axle? If it's 140+mm, then you can have a 135mm OLN width and still get 2+mm protruding from the ends. If not, I'd get a new axle. I found some 135mm replacement kits at mybiketinley.com for a good price. Someone else said they could find new axles in San Jose, CA for $2 or something. But if the axle is too short, get a 146mm.

I have a collection of 2mm, 3mm, and 5mm aluminum axle spacers for 10mm axles. If, as you suspect, someone bolted on an 8spd freehub body and didn't re-space, then adding 2mm to the drive side might be necessary for chain clearance. If that's too much, I'd pull the single washer on the drive side and put in a 2mm and that would add 1mm which might be enough. This may take a few iterations.

If you're shy of 130mm at 129mm, I'd then go and add a 2mm + 3mm spacer on the non-drive side axle and bolt things down. This should get you to 135.xxx mm OLN width.

As for axle protrusion, if you're able to use a shorter 141mm axle, I'd split the difference and have equal protrusions on either side of the hub locknuts, maybe 0.5mm more on the drive side just because I'm a tiny bit irrationally paranoid about pulling the drive side out (especially if it's going back in vintage steel frame w/ horizontal dropouts).

You may need or want to mess with BB spindle to perfect the chainline, but usually the setup will just work as is. Now you should have minimum asymmetric dish rear hub ready for 135mm service.

If the hub truly has an 8-spêed frêehub and you want to go 135mm:

1. M10 x 135 x 145 axle. Higher quality ones will have an extra .5mm of round edging on the ends for M10 x 135 x 146.
2. Space right side such that flange center to end of drive side lock nut = 48.00mm exactly.

Use two straight edge rulers to measure - one with edge across lock nut and one across flange mêeting the first ruler. Twist axle 180 degrêes and do again. If varies, take an average.

3. Use non-drive side to fill out until you have at least 134mm and no more than 136mm.

Don't forget to check the dish of the whêel...

=8-)

For a 7-spêed frêehub the flange center to end of lock nut spec. is 46mm.

=8-)

The right-side locknut surface is determined by the height of the bearings, cone, washer and locknut outside of the bearing surface of the freehub body. It doesn't matter if the body is a 7-spd or an 8-spd, the thickness of the bearings+cone+washer+locknut will still be the same. Only way to shorten that distance is to remove the washer and/or install a thinner locknut. The 1mm shy of 130mm indicates someone may have just left off one of the washers. I prefer to have the end of the locknut be only 1.5-2.0mm outside of the surface of the lockring to minimize dish.

Yes, you just need a 146mm axle and the 5mm axle-spacer shown below (change "remove" to "add"):

OK Thnaks everyone I got it figured out.