New crank and pedal
#1
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New crank and pedal
I recently stripped my crank/pedal trying to get it off (didn't turn it the wrong way) as it was on incredibly tight and I had limited tools. Now that I'm back in the States, I need to get a new one. So I'm wondering if I should just get the same ones or if I should upgrade... don't know how much a difference just upgrading the cranks would make. I've tried searching around for what I should do, but a few weeks have gone by and I'm not sure... and I'm getting tired of riding another crappy old mountain bike.
My bike's a Surly Cross-check. The crank says RPM CFJ/CFM on the side. It's 170mm. The pedal says Wengo k20427. Shimano Tiagra derailleur. Back cassette is Shimano HG50-9 (11-34t). Front is 48/36.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
My bike's a Surly Cross-check. The crank says RPM CFJ/CFM on the side. It's 170mm. The pedal says Wengo k20427. Shimano Tiagra derailleur. Back cassette is Shimano HG50-9 (11-34t). Front is 48/36.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
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The crank's pedal thread can be repaired economically by drilling and tapping it oversize and inserting a Helicoil; the resulting repair will be stronger than the original threads. To help avoid this problem in the future clean and grease the threads before assembly; I recommend Tef-Gel which is designed to keep dissimilar metals from seizing. Stainless pedal washers may also help. And use a proper pedal wrench, it will fit correctly and have sufficient leverage to break loose stubborn pedals.
Last edited by dsbrantjr; 05-28-12 at 07:46 PM. Reason: add wrench comment
#3
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As mentioned, you can get the threads in the crankarm repaired pretty easily. Most shops will do it for about $20. The Wellgo K20427 pedals are basic platform pedals. You can replace with same model or MKS for about $20 a set.
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Thanks dsbrantjr for the tips. Should make it that much easier in the future. As for the bike wrench, I actually broke the one I'd bought specifically for the job. I may have burst some veins too. I never did get the other pedal off. Now that I'm back in my home town with proper resources and time, I'll have to try extending the wrench with a metal bar or something as I read lots of others had suggested in the forums. Or I could let my LBS mechanic wrangle with it... actually I think the bike shop in my town has disappeared. Shoot.
Perfect DannoXYZ. Good to know.
Btw, there's no reason to upgrade the cranks is there? Doesn't make much of a difference does it? I'm guessing I should probably just wait until I upgrade the crankset. I was thinking of upgrading and adding a third chainwheel, but now that I'm back in Minnesota, where it's quite a bit flatter, I think there's less need. (For the last four years, I've been rolling up and down mountains in Japan on my commutes to work and adventure.) Crankset upgrades seem to be fairly expensive and, from what I've read, I'd have to get a different front derailleur if I wanted to add a third chainwheel. I'll mostly be using my bike for commuting (5~20 km) and I plan on doing a little touring and camping around Minnesota/Wisconsin. (There's a slight possibility of going to China in the autumn.) Any advice? No need to upgrade? Definitely upgrade?
Perfect DannoXYZ. Good to know.
Btw, there's no reason to upgrade the cranks is there? Doesn't make much of a difference does it? I'm guessing I should probably just wait until I upgrade the crankset. I was thinking of upgrading and adding a third chainwheel, but now that I'm back in Minnesota, where it's quite a bit flatter, I think there's less need. (For the last four years, I've been rolling up and down mountains in Japan on my commutes to work and adventure.) Crankset upgrades seem to be fairly expensive and, from what I've read, I'd have to get a different front derailleur if I wanted to add a third chainwheel. I'll mostly be using my bike for commuting (5~20 km) and I plan on doing a little touring and camping around Minnesota/Wisconsin. (There's a slight possibility of going to China in the autumn.) Any advice? No need to upgrade? Definitely upgrade?
#5
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Yeah, no need to change the cranks unless you really need that granny chainring. Typically you can get smaller inner-chainring and larger cassette cogs for 1 to 2 lowers gears than you have now. That usually is all you need in most cases.
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I never did get the other pedal off. Now that I'm back in my home town with proper resources and time, I'll have to try extending the wrench with a metal bar or something as I read lots of others had suggested in the forums. Or I could let my LBS mechanic wrangle with it... actually I think the bike shop in my town has disappeared. Shoot.
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A quick tip is to use a cheater bar to add extra leverage to your wrench. A seat post works wonderfully in this regard. Just slide it over the wrench handle and suddenly you are twice as strong.
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Thanks for the advice everyone. Now I'm that much wiser. I was gonna use my cousin's helicoil set, but the reverse thread was a problem. Then it ended up being cheaper just to buy a Shimano pedal ($15) at an LBS than to get it helicoiled, so I did that. Just ended up cleaning the pedal threads out with a thread cleaner and they were fine, but I'll probably get some new ones soon anyway as the ones I have aren't my favorite. So thanks again. Nice to be back on a decent ride.