what to look for on used road bikes?(another question)
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what to look for on used road bikes?(another question)
Just wondering what to look for when purchasing a used bike.(road bike) I new to this but I'm looking to just buy older used bikes that are rideable. But I wanna know exactly what I should look for so I don't overpay for the "vintage" appeal. Any advice would be great thanks.
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IMO you wanna make sure it has 700c wheels, a cassette hub and Hyperglide.
But it kinda depends how much 'vintage' appeals to you; maybe you want something without aero levers, I dunno. Give us more info about what you want, and what your budget is.
But it kinda depends how much 'vintage' appeals to you; maybe you want something without aero levers, I dunno. Give us more info about what you want, and what your budget is.
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Just wondering what to look for when purchasing a used bike.(road bike) I new to this but I'm looking to just buy older used bikes that are rideable. But I wanna know exactly what I should look for so I don't overpay for the "vintage" appeal. Any advice would be great thanks.
If you're concerned that the bike is sound check the serial number (on the underside, below the bottom bracket) - if someone has removed it there's probably a good reason why. Check the frame is straight and you can't see any cracks in it (check the welds specifically). Make sure the wheels are true, the gears shift etc.
If you're concerned about the value of something that might be old and valuable but equally might be old and junk then I'll defer to others who know more than I do as I know precisely nothing about the value of older bikes.
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Along with the things already mentioned, I really give the wheels close attention. Matters on the bike, but just about all of them could have good used wheels if maintained properly.
#6
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If you are looking at true vintage stuff (pre-STI), the low end stuff will typically have stem shifters (instead of downtube or bar end), "suicide levers" (brake lever extensions that allow you to apply the brakes from the tops of the bars - though no to be confused with interrupter levers seen on more current bikes), chromed steel wheels, lack of quick releases on the hubs (unless you are going really old) and no chroming at the dropouts (fork and frame).
#7
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If you don't know how to evaluate the mechanical condition, the frame and the value nothing we can tell here you will allow you to do that yourself. I would suggest you either buy from a shop that has at least a 60 day adjustment/defect guarantee or get the seller's agreement to have a shop or knowledgeable 3rd party evaluate it. The list of things to check depends on the bike and your planned useage but can include:
Bearings - adjustment, smoothness, availability of parts.
Control cables and housing - condition, operation
Derailleurs, brakes, chain - type of levers, dirt/corrosion, adjustment, wear, quality, parts availability/compatibility.
Wheels - spoke corrosion, rim damage, trueness, rim material, width.
Tires - type, condition, compatible with your planned use
Frame - properly tracked, derailleur hanger straight, quality, defects, recalls, appearance, damage.
Bicycle type - leisure, touring, commuter, racing
Fit - frame size, reach to bars, saddle, pedals
How much one checks depends on the value of the bike and your budget (if you are paying for an evaluation). A basic check of a run-of-the mill road bike would not include a frame check and not a lot of info about possible problems down the road due to parts issues. I would expect a shop to charge for that, as it takes a while to do properly and to write a report. Don't know what the going rate might be, but I would not charge less than about $10-15.
As far as judging the value of an older bike, that varies not only by the above criteria but by area of the country, rarity, desirability, extent of original parts, etc.
...also - not clear on the reason for the plural ("older used bikes")
Bearings - adjustment, smoothness, availability of parts.
Control cables and housing - condition, operation
Derailleurs, brakes, chain - type of levers, dirt/corrosion, adjustment, wear, quality, parts availability/compatibility.
Wheels - spoke corrosion, rim damage, trueness, rim material, width.
Tires - type, condition, compatible with your planned use
Frame - properly tracked, derailleur hanger straight, quality, defects, recalls, appearance, damage.
Bicycle type - leisure, touring, commuter, racing
Fit - frame size, reach to bars, saddle, pedals
How much one checks depends on the value of the bike and your budget (if you are paying for an evaluation). A basic check of a run-of-the mill road bike would not include a frame check and not a lot of info about possible problems down the road due to parts issues. I would expect a shop to charge for that, as it takes a while to do properly and to write a report. Don't know what the going rate might be, but I would not charge less than about $10-15.
As far as judging the value of an older bike, that varies not only by the above criteria but by area of the country, rarity, desirability, extent of original parts, etc.
...also - not clear on the reason for the plural ("older used bikes")
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-20-12 at 01:00 PM.
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That bike you just posted looks a bit old to have decent (IMO) components, which came along in the mid to late 80s.
I'd say it's worth scraping as much as you can get together up to about maybe $600, which is about where the diminishing returns kick in if you're onto a good deal.
Also, do you know what size you need?
Last edited by Kimmo; 06-20-12 at 01:08 PM.
#10
Mechanic/Tourist
Absolutely no way to tell from pics. Lack of rust and dirt does not mean they are in good shape. I can tell you that each has it's challenges, most notably the lack of shift levers or cables on the Trek. It certainly is not "rideable."
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 06-20-12 at 01:39 PM.
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If you don't know how to evaluate the mechanical condition, the frame and the value nothing we can tell here you will allow you to do that yourself. I would suggest you either buy from a shop that has at least a 60 day adjustment/defect guarantee or get the seller's agreement to have a shop or knowledgeable 3rd party evaluate it. The list of things to check depends on the bike and your planned useage but can include:
Bearings - adjustment, smoothness, availability of parts.
Control cables and housing - condition, operation
Derailleurs, brakes, chain - type of levers, dirt/corrosion, adjustment, wear, quality, parts availability/compatibility.
Wheels - spoke corrosion, rim damage, trueness, rim material, width.
Tires - type, condition, compatible with your planned use
Frame - properly tracked, derailleur hanger straight, quality, defects, recalls, appearance, damage.
Bicycle type - leisure, touring, commuter, racing
Fit - frame size, reach to bars, saddle, pedals
How much one checks depends on the value of the bike and your budget (if you are paying for an evaluation). A basic check of a run-of-the mill road bike would not include a frame check and not a lot of info about possible problems down the road due to parts issues. I would expect a shop to charge for that, as it takes a while to do properly and to write a report. Don't know what the going rate might be, but I would not charge less than about $10-15.
As far as judging the value of an older bike, that varies not only by the above criteria but by area of the country, rarity, desirability, extent of original parts, etc.
...also - not clear on the reason for the plural ("older used bikes")
Bearings - adjustment, smoothness, availability of parts.
Control cables and housing - condition, operation
Derailleurs, brakes, chain - type of levers, dirt/corrosion, adjustment, wear, quality, parts availability/compatibility.
Wheels - spoke corrosion, rim damage, trueness, rim material, width.
Tires - type, condition, compatible with your planned use
Frame - properly tracked, derailleur hanger straight, quality, defects, recalls, appearance, damage.
Bicycle type - leisure, touring, commuter, racing
Fit - frame size, reach to bars, saddle, pedals
How much one checks depends on the value of the bike and your budget (if you are paying for an evaluation). A basic check of a run-of-the mill road bike would not include a frame check and not a lot of info about possible problems down the road due to parts issues. I would expect a shop to charge for that, as it takes a while to do properly and to write a report. Don't know what the going rate might be, but I would not charge less than about $10-15.
As far as judging the value of an older bike, that varies not only by the above criteria but by area of the country, rarity, desirability, extent of original parts, etc.
...also - not clear on the reason for the plural ("older used bikes")
+1 Excellent advice. There are too many variables for an inexperienced person to deal with without a good chance of regretting his/her purchase.
good luck,
Brian
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Just wondering what to look for when purchasing a used bike.(road bike) I new to this but I'm looking to just buy older used bikes that are rideable. But I wanna know exactly what I should look for so I don't overpay for the "vintage" appeal. Any advice would be great thanks.
There's no way you'll get enough info on a forum not to miss something important and end up with a bike which needs enough work that it's no longer a good value. In some cases you can miss something so critical, like non-obvious crash damage, and end up with a total dog.
50 different posters could help you make a laundry list of things to look for and you still won't be sufficiently qualified to make a smart purchase.
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1986 Katakura Silk, Superbe Pro components and hubs; threaded freewheel. Those are 700c wheels (I believe bike originally came with 27 inch, I am not sure, I bought it as a rusty frameset).
If you want to know what to look for, search is your friend, there is a lot to look for. Google vintage bike inspecting site:www.bikeforums.net
Or go to Randy Jawas 10 speed bike web site.
If you have the time/tools/aptitude/source of cheap parts, then buying a neglected vintage bike that needs work can be an awesome deal. But if you don't, it can be a money pit.
When I bought the Katakura (for $75) it was just a rust covered frameset. The parts all came from my bin, and the rust treatment was by me.
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