Park Tool PCS-9 ... problem
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 110
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From: Richmond Va
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe 2001, Bianchi Brava, Bianchi Mondiale
Park Tool PCS-9 ... problem
Does anyone use this stand or one of the other similar models?
I bought mine from craigslist only to find that I cannot lock the arm into place, so I cannot rotate the bike and keep it in that position. It has a handle at the back of the arm that I believe you should be able to flip to lock the arm in place but mine flips freely back and forth but does not lock into place.
Anyone had any experience with this problem?
Thanks.
I bought mine from craigslist only to find that I cannot lock the arm into place, so I cannot rotate the bike and keep it in that position. It has a handle at the back of the arm that I believe you should be able to flip to lock the arm in place but mine flips freely back and forth but does not lock into place.
Anyone had any experience with this problem?
Thanks.
#2
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,646
Likes: 2
From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
contract parktools .com , they have a great service dept . they will repair or replace the part at little or no cost to you . I have deal with them over the years and always been there when I needed them . Good luck .
#3
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,571
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From: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
Does anyone use this stand or one of the other similar models?
I bought mine from craigslist only to find that I cannot lock the arm into place, so I cannot rotate the bike and keep it in that position. It has a handle at the back of the arm that I believe you should be able to flip to lock the arm in place but mine flips freely back and forth but does not lock into place.
Anyone had any experience with this problem?
Thanks.

I bought mine from craigslist only to find that I cannot lock the arm into place, so I cannot rotate the bike and keep it in that position. It has a handle at the back of the arm that I believe you should be able to flip to lock the arm in place but mine flips freely back and forth but does not lock into place.
Anyone had any experience with this problem?
Thanks.
#5
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
20:1 you're missing the conic bushing between the clamp assembly and base unit. Go to the Park site, find the parts list for your stand, and you'll see the part, you need.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Edit: just processed what FB posted. FB knows what's up. Still, try twisting it first.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Richmond Va
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe 2001, Bianchi Brava, Bianchi Mondiale
20:1 you're missing the conic bushing between the clamp assembly and base unit. Go to the Park site, find the parts list for your stand, and you'll see the part, you need.
So, I checked the site and they do have a two page illustration for instruction as well as a parts list.
I wasn't able to find anything listed as the 'conic bushing' but there is a cone shaped piece (#7), which must be it? I actually do have this piece. In fact, from the illustration I don't think I'm missing anything.
Part # 9 is there but I was unable to pull it out to inspect it, but I couldn't imagine that would make a difference?
When I tighten it (righty-tighty) it eventually gets to a point where it is so tight that I cannot turn it anymore, however the bike can still freely spin. It's as if there should be some kind of heavy rubber grommet between #9 and #11, instead of simply a washer.
There is an ever-so-slight bend in the threaded rod. Do you think this could possibly be the problem?
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Call them?
#8
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Step 1, you have the stand, and you have a picture that shows all the parts. So disassemble the stand and check that it's complete.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Actually, in this case I was off. The older better versions like PCS-1 and others used a replaceable wearing cone between the clamp and mounting tube. Looking at the exploded view, it seems that Park decided to save a buck or so by skipping it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
1. First, find the direction the lever moves to loosen and tighten the clamp.
2. place the clamp-lever in the OPEN position so that the clamp's jaws are wider
3. tighten the clamp handle assembly and you should see the clamp's jaws slowly close
4. flip the clamp-lever into the CLOSE position and this should be the final movement that holds the frame.
Go back to #2 and repeat #3 as needed so the clamp holds the bike in place. Personally, I like to position my bike so that it's balanced in the jaws of the clamp and doesn't need to be clamped too tightly.
#11
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Danno, you're making a similar mistake to mine and thinking of earlier versions. The lever on this isn't a cam at all but simply a simple wing nut (of sorts). It's similar to the levers Park uses elsewhere in the line offering a built in wrench that flips 180° for convenience.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
Likes: 26
From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Danno, you're making a similar mistake to mine and thinking of earlier versions. The lever on this isn't a cam at all but simply a simple wing nut (of sorts). It's similar to the levers Park uses elsewhere in the line offering a built in wrench that flips 180° for convenience.
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 110
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From: Richmond Va
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe 2001, Bianchi Brava, Bianchi Mondiale
Step 1, you have the stand, and you have a picture that shows all the parts. So disassemble the stand and check that it's complete.
The lever on this isn't a cam at all but simply a simple wing nut (of sorts) ... [it] flips 180° for convenience.
So Wallbrown, you just keep screwing it tight until the bike won't move? Is yours hard to tighten? Does it hold the bike, stiffly, in any position?
#15
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Richmond Va
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe 2001, Bianchi Brava, Bianchi Mondiale
So, I'm feeling pretty darn silly. The short-of-it is that you can tighten the clamp so that it will not rotate and you simply do it by screwing the handle around. I was trying to do it quickly, without putting my bike on the stand. I just needed the extra weight of the bike to hold the clamp in place ... I wasn't able to hold the clamp in place while I was testing it.
Anyway, it works. Thanks to all for suggestions.
Anyway, it works. Thanks to all for suggestions.
#16
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Joined: Mar 2011
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This is what I did, essentially. I took apart the top but left the stand intact. The only thing I couldn't take apart was the piece that sticks into the back of the tube, but I dont' see why that would matter.
Exactly right.
So Wallbrown, you just keep screwing it tight until the bike won't move? Is yours hard to tighten? Does it hold the bike, stiffly, in any position?
Exactly right.
So Wallbrown, you just keep screwing it tight until the bike won't move? Is yours hard to tighten? Does it hold the bike, stiffly, in any position?
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