Hello all
I have an 2009 GT Avalanche 2.0 mountain bike. The front hub started to bind a bit a few weeks ago, so I added some wd40 which worked OK until now. Last night it bound up quite bad, and I noticed what looks like aluminum shavings as well caught in the oil around the hub. The central shaft actualy unwound by itself, opeing the quick release, by itself, to the binding point.
The hub has the brand "Formula" printed on it, and the rim is '26" - Jalco 6061 - AX430'
The local bike shop is a bit of a pain to deal with, so would prefer to do it myself. Unless it requires a lot of hassle and specialized tools.
Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXmUT...1&feature=plcp
Any idea where to start???

Thank you!

Where to start indeed. First you need to put the QR on properly (this may solve your problem or not). First take a look at the lever; that is exactly backwards and may result in a failure of the front wheel. The lever should be pointing the other way. It is not a lever that you use to completely tighten the QR, it works with a cam that is part of the lever. The correct way to use the QR is to tighten it with the lever in it's current position and them flip the lever over so the end is pointing down, not up. If when you flip the lever and the QR doesn't tighten then you need to tighten it more before you flip the lever; if can not flip the lever, then the QR is too tight and needs to be unscrewed a little and then try again. Also make sure the end of the lever that's attached is squarely in the concave end in which it sits; . Now, unscrew the non-lever side and remove the QR. Now clean the QR, the shaft, the ends of the hub and the drop outs of the fork. Now look at the position of the two springs. The springs should have the wide part on the outside, with the thin part pointing toward the hub. Once you have it set up the way, tighten the QR as I previously explained. Once it is tight, turn the bike over, loosen the QR lever and make sure the hub is sitting all the way in the fork dropouts; doing this properly should stop your QR from unscrewing and may end the binding. I'm not going to discuss the axle and bearings right now, but be advised that the use of WD-40 was pretty much the worse substance you could have used. When you done take a photo (there is no point to a video unless you say tried to spin the wheel) and tell us what it is doing now..

Ya, that's all common sense. Not helpful for me. Please go back and reread my post.
As I mentioned, the shaft, and "QR" as you put it, unscrewed itself. It forced itself open.
Ive never liked the way it sat in the fork. It either bound, or was loose and the wheel flopping around. It never was solid and true and spinning freely.
I tried different combinations of tension on the hub nuts (don't know all the terminology) and QR, best I got was a compromise.
At this point, what needs to be replaced axactly?

DBL POST, see next posting.

I'm guessing that the axle assembly needs to be disassembled and examined, lubed and re-assembled using proper wrenches so that the adjustment is retained.
What I'm hearing so far sounds dangerous.

The video didn't tell me anything, except that it's got a disc brake, which might be dragging.

Sounds like the axle cones had rotated full-tight, possibly from hub rotation with the lock nuts less than tight.

Thanks for the interest. Yes, the hub rotation unscrewed it. In the video you can see the central shaft/bolt whatever the hell it's called extended itself through the end cap (out the opposite side to the QR).
Ive done no maintenance on this since I got it, and imagine its dirty/ worn out whatever.
Any ballpark figure for parts maintenance worse case scenario?

worse case___ https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...88_-1___202477

https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...02_-1___202477

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...and-adjustment

WD-40 is not a good thing to use on bearings. If you can't get real grease in there, at least dribble in some heavy oil such a bar oil, which will provide some lubrication. In the video, the qr skewer is in the "open" or "unlocked" position.
I've never heard of a properly closed qr skewer opening by itself.

Read this: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...d-installation

Especially almost 1/2 way down: "Installing Wheel on Bike" and "Disc Brake Note"

When a bearing actually binds it generally will need more than lubrication, and as you found out - immediate attention. If you want to do it yourself Google "front hub overhaul" and study several sites, especially Parktool.com and sheldonbrown.com. They will tell you what tools are needed and the procedure. Odds are high that you will need new cones and axle, and possible that the cups are ruined, which is "worst case" - new wheel will be required.

I didn't watch the video, but a warning.

DO NOT RIDE THIS UNTIL YOU IDENTIFY AND CORRECT THE ISSUE.

I don't usually like to issue this type of warning, but a seized front hub is one of the most dangerous of possible mechanical failures. If it seizes at speed you're almost assured of an endo with not happy consequences.

Take the time to ensure a quality repair, whether it involves replacing bearings, or simply repacking and making the locknuts are bulletproof secure.

Well, I brokedown and took it to the local shop last week and was very happy to find out it would be 30$ or less, just had to wait for parts. Well he calls today to say it will now be about 200$, and it doesn't matter if I repair or buy a whole new wheel.

So I'm working through a translator and it sucks. I just want the cheapest repair toget it on the road. Is he correct and that's my only option? I thought of yahoo auctions Japan, but dontknow what to search for and a real language pain.

$200 for a wheel to match a wheel built around a Formula hub and a Jalco rim seems quite steep. I can easily get a pair of wheels for that price.

So I'm guessing whatever happened was bad enough to trash the hub. Not impossible, but a bit rare. W/o autopsy photos, it's impossible to tell whether the diagnosis is right or not.

Functionally speaking, you should be good with pretty much any 26" disc brake, screw mount rotor, MTB wheel.

If you're stubborn and patient enough, you could probably disassemble the wheel and lace a new hub in there. Right now, a net search for "formula disc front hub" came up with one place selling them for $13...

Make sure the spoke hole circle diameter is a match and you're all set. Plenty of wheelbuilding tutorials available online.