Amateur Mechanic needs a "bit of guidance"
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Amateur Mechanic needs a "bit of guidance"
Plan was to change the chain ring , cranks and chain
Step one: Chain off OK
Step two: Crank puller tool, despite very delicate installing has ripped the threads to pieces inside the crank
How do I get the crank and chain ring off now?
Any thoughts or other tools that would help
Cheers
Step one: Chain off OK
Step two: Crank puller tool, despite very delicate installing has ripped the threads to pieces inside the crank
How do I get the crank and chain ring off now?
Any thoughts or other tools that would help
Cheers
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these work really well........google jacobs chuck wedges #3
or just buy these
If you're planning on reusing this crank, you'll now need them
every time you want to pull it off, but not for installation.
Almost nobody except maybe John Thompson has the tap you
need to rethread a dead end crank hole.
or just buy these
If you're planning on reusing this crank, you'll now need them
every time you want to pull it off, but not for installation.
Almost nobody except maybe John Thompson has the tap you
need to rethread a dead end crank hole.
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You might be able to use an automotive type gear puller. Be sure that there is no washer left in the crank, you should be able to see the end of the bottom bracket taper or splines.
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Are you sure the puller and the crank are a match? there are different pullers for square taper and other for splines look at the end of the puller and see if it is the right size to clear the sides around the spindle end and contact just the end of the spindle); also as said before make sure you have removed any washers. Did you try the puller more than once? If not there still may be enough threads to pull the crank (making sure its the right puller). This time tighten the puller with a wrench so you know it has bottomed out.
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A little extreme sounding, but it's quick...
Take the bike to a service station (where they work on cars). See if one of the mechanics can use their air
Impact Wrench with a round stud on the end. The rapid vibration from the Impact Wrench will literally
vibrate the crank arm right off the spindle, and the round plug won't damage the finish on the arm.
On the side of the crank arm, right at the middle of the spider. Or, along the back edge if you can reach it.
I know it sounds drastic, but I've gone this route before with crank sets from cheap Sakae's to a Campy SR
pantographed crank arm. The Campy customer was amazed it even came off, and it took less than 15 seconds
with the right tool.
Just my 2¢ here...
Take the bike to a service station (where they work on cars). See if one of the mechanics can use their air
Impact Wrench with a round stud on the end. The rapid vibration from the Impact Wrench will literally
vibrate the crank arm right off the spindle, and the round plug won't damage the finish on the arm.
On the side of the crank arm, right at the middle of the spider. Or, along the back edge if you can reach it.
I know it sounds drastic, but I've gone this route before with crank sets from cheap Sakae's to a Campy SR
pantographed crank arm. The Campy customer was amazed it even came off, and it took less than 15 seconds
with the right tool.
Just my 2¢ here...
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Think you have highlighted the problem appears that i did leave the washer in the crank!!
"all good experience" Thanks for taking the time
"all good experience" Thanks for taking the time
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Common sense and a bright idea
Thankfully live in a rural backwater of East Anglia where we still have local mechanics in a local garage
Will being seeing them at the weekend.
Cheers
Thankfully live in a rural backwater of East Anglia where we still have local mechanics in a local garage
Will being seeing them at the weekend.
Cheers
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How do those chuck wedges work? Insert around opposite sides of the BB taper between the BB shell and the crankarm, and then... pry? wedges in towards each other with a hammer?
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crank and the BB cup that you are pushing against with something......i usually end up
using the open end of a combination box/open end wrench of the appropriate thickness
for the situation. From there, as you have deduced, one from each side and tap them
toward each other using a small hammer.
Some sort of penetrating oil, like PB Blaster (as seen on TV !!) applied to the interface
of crank and spindle from both sides (front and back) also helps usually.
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A little extreme sounding, but it's quick...
Take the bike to a service station (where they work on cars). See if one of the mechanics can use their air
Impact Wrench with a round stud on the end. The rapid vibration from the Impact Wrench will literally
vibrate the crank arm right off the spindle, and the round plug won't damage the finish on the arm.
On the side of the crank arm, right at the middle of the spider. Or, along the back edge if you can reach it.
I know it sounds drastic, but I've gone this route before with crank sets from cheap Sakae's to a Campy SR
pantographed crank arm. The Campy customer was amazed it even came off, and it took less than 15 seconds
with the right tool.
Just my 2¢ here...
Take the bike to a service station (where they work on cars). See if one of the mechanics can use their air
Impact Wrench with a round stud on the end. The rapid vibration from the Impact Wrench will literally
vibrate the crank arm right off the spindle, and the round plug won't damage the finish on the arm.
On the side of the crank arm, right at the middle of the spider. Or, along the back edge if you can reach it.
I know it sounds drastic, but I've gone this route before with crank sets from cheap Sakae's to a Campy SR
pantographed crank arm. The Campy customer was amazed it even came off, and it took less than 15 seconds
with the right tool.
Just my 2¢ here...