Did a quick search and really didn't see a thread on this subject. About to strip the frame down to metal for a repaint. And I am needing some suggestions on a good paint stripper to go with. I am not interested in trying to hunt down some specialty place that sells some hardcore stuff. Just really want to pop into the local NAPA, Autozone, O'Reilly's for there selection. And good suggestions on what these "big box" stores carry?

Thanks,

Your suggestions are appreciated

Home depot has various types of paint strippers. I bought some there a few years ago that was more of a gel. Be sure to get some heavy rubber gloves. This stuff will penetrate many thinner gloves such as latex.

What is your frame made of? If it's welded or even lugged steel, almost any paint stripper should be compatible. If it's aluminum read the stripper's lable carefully. Many paint strippers contain caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) which will badly corrode aluminum. Welded aluminum is safe with a stripper based on a chlorinated solvent (methylene chloride for example) but a bonded Al frame shouldn't be stripped with these. For Ti, which is sometimes painted, the sky is the limit. For carbon, absolutely no stripper is safe.

When I was in the military, we used a gel type remover to remove the paint on aircraft ground support equipment. It does do a great job, but the stuff I used would also burn the crap out of exposed skin, so +1 on extra thick gloves.

I almost always use the aerosol stripper from Home Depot. I like it's ease of use and I think it strips faster because it's easier to get good coverage. Plus, the less you disturb the stripper (by brushing) the better it seems to work. It's more expensive to buy the aerosol, but stripping is a nasty job and the spray makes the job easier/cleaner so it's worth the extra cost for me.

I spray on a good heavy coat then cover the stripper with plastic to slow the evaporation.

Yes aircraft paint striper works better than anything I've ever used but do wear protection

Aircraft Paint Stripper is just a brand name. It's made by Kleen-Strip. It's no better or worse than any other brand. It's not used on aircraft because they're aluminum. Most places around here carry Jasco and that's what I've always used.

I have had good results with CitriStrip. Cleans up with water and minimal fumes. I have also used it on aluminum parts with no issues, though I wouldn't leave it on for a long time.

I once removed all the paint from a frame by a visit to a friend with a sandblaster. Just layed it down in the driveway, went at it and it didn't take long to get the whole frame to bare metal, with no nasty chemicals to dispose of.

At Walmart, in the automotive section, right next to the spray on truck box liner, is Rustoleum paint stripper in a spray can. I've used it a couple of times and it works well. Just apply it heavily and go have a soda or beer or two and let it do its thing. If it is hot and dry where you are working, you can wrap the wet surface in paper towel, spray again and then wrap the whole thing in plastic wrap. If you let it work long enough, this technique makes cleanup easier as most of the paint comes off with the paper towels. A brass brush does a good job of removing the rest. Make absolutely sure that you get every bit of it out of every nook, cranny, weld, etc. and rinse, rinse, rinse your frame inside and out with a power washer, then dry in the sun using a workstand to keep turning it so that every tube drains well. Once dry, wipe it down with a good prep solvent that will remove any remaining corrosion, wax, fingerprints, etc. Lightly sand the entire frame with 400grit sandpaper and wipe down with prep solvent again. I like to spray a rust converting primer inside the frame as well as the outside. Some come with an extension tube that makes it easy to fog it into stays and the main triangle.

If you don't mind waiting for a package in the mail, Eastwood Automotive Restoration sells top of the line strippers and rust converting primers, but the Rustoleum stuff from WalMart works fine. I've redone a number of frames that way. If you use stripper, make sure you get the entire frame to bare metal as residue can remain in any paint left behind and ruin the topcoat.

FYI, there is no reason you have to go to bare metal everywhere on the frame if the original paint is in functional shape. You can sand it with 400 grit sandpaper, lightly sanding where the paint is good and going to bare metal where necessary to remove rust or deep scratches. Wipe it down with prep solvent and give it a coat of rust converting primer, then a sandable primer. Wet sand with 1000 grit after appropriate drying and wipe it down good before shooting the color coat.

This idea craps all over chemical stripping.

I'd cough up $50 for a frame to be sandblasted in a heartbeat.