Super Web Grease?
#1
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 483
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From: Toledo, OH
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Steamroller, Panasonic DX-3000, Trek 4900
Super Web Grease?
I'm getting ready to assemble my new bike build, and obviously there are quite a few parts that are going to need grease. I have a tube of Super Web grease from Rock "N" Roll that I picked up at my LBS. They said it's what they use for installing bottom brackets, but I've never heard of it so wanted to get a second opinions. Is this a good all purpose grease, or should I pick up something else to use for areas such as the seatpost, stem bolts, etc...
Edit: From everything I can find online this is primarily a bearing grease. Almost every component on my bike has sealed bearings. I need grease to use when installing parts such as the cranks/bottom bracket, seatpost, stem bolts, rear wheel cog/lockering, etc.
Edit: From everything I can find online this is primarily a bearing grease. Almost every component on my bike has sealed bearings. I need grease to use when installing parts such as the cranks/bottom bracket, seatpost, stem bolts, rear wheel cog/lockering, etc.
Last edited by smurray; 07-20-12 at 05:01 AM.
#2
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,129
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From: Munising, Michigan, USA
Bikes: Priority 600, Priority Continuum, Devinci Dexter
It should be fine. I'd use it up if someone gave me a tube.
FWIW, Rock "N" Roll is a brand that's been around for awhile. They are probably more known for their chain lube though.
FWIW, Rock "N" Roll is a brand that's been around for awhile. They are probably more known for their chain lube though.
#3
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Bikes: 1990 Burley Bossa Nova, 1992 Paramount PDG-70, 1993 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2005 Jamis Dakar XC Pro, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Greased threads good
Grease threads bad
It will be fine. Any grease that works for a BB should be fine anywhere else on a bike. Bikes do not need special greases. I avoid brightly coloured greases as they can stain paintwork etc. That's it.
Grease threads bad
It will be fine. Any grease that works for a BB should be fine anywhere else on a bike. Bikes do not need special greases. I avoid brightly coloured greases as they can stain paintwork etc. That's it.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,901
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From: SW Ohio
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
I really like this grease. It really does stay put where you want it. I thread the tube onto a micro grease gun and I'm able to apply a very thin thread of this grease wherever I need it. I'm using the Pedro's brand micro grease gun BTW.
#6
#7
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
This is a grease thread, so might turn out like a chainlube thread!
One thing to know about grease is that LITHIUM grease is said to be water-retaining, so would be a poor choice for wet riding conditions.
As far as different grease viscosity preferences, I firstly use the very stiffest grease for headsets, where lighter grease seems to literally fall out of the lower cup!
Most greases, when filled to the right amount in a bearing assembly, will not recirculate continuously.
I think this is better than grease which is so clingy that it gets dragged around, for several reasons.
Firstly, might external contaminants get churned into the ball track rather than being repelled by a stationary wall of grease?
There is also the consideration of viscous friction.
But hardened ball bearings don't need a recirculated lubricant, only a grease-surrounded environment that will "wick" a bit of oil to the rolling surfaces over several years time, keeping them from ever drying out.
It's probably good that a newly-packed hub does recirculate the grease for a while before the grease settles down though. I've seen crudely-machined races and even chrome plating that immediately flaked off of a bearing cup's races, and it does no good for these chips to roll around continuously instead of being absorbed by the entire volume of grease.
Well-made ball bearing assemblies need VERY little lubricant but thrive in a moisture and dirt-free environment.
One thing to know about grease is that LITHIUM grease is said to be water-retaining, so would be a poor choice for wet riding conditions.
As far as different grease viscosity preferences, I firstly use the very stiffest grease for headsets, where lighter grease seems to literally fall out of the lower cup!
Most greases, when filled to the right amount in a bearing assembly, will not recirculate continuously.
I think this is better than grease which is so clingy that it gets dragged around, for several reasons.
Firstly, might external contaminants get churned into the ball track rather than being repelled by a stationary wall of grease?
There is also the consideration of viscous friction.
But hardened ball bearings don't need a recirculated lubricant, only a grease-surrounded environment that will "wick" a bit of oil to the rolling surfaces over several years time, keeping them from ever drying out.
It's probably good that a newly-packed hub does recirculate the grease for a while before the grease settles down though. I've seen crudely-machined races and even chrome plating that immediately flaked off of a bearing cup's races, and it does no good for these chips to roll around continuously instead of being absorbed by the entire volume of grease.
Well-made ball bearing assemblies need VERY little lubricant but thrive in a moisture and dirt-free environment.
#8
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!






