Generic Torque Guide?
#1
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Toledo, OH
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Steamroller, Panasonic DX-3000, Trek 4900
Generic Torque Guide?
Does anyone know of a place to find a general torque guide for bike components? Some of my components specify torque, such as my stem and headset. Other parts I can't find torque ratings for, such as the integrated seatpost clamp for my Leader 722TS, seatpost rail clamps, and axle nuts. I know it's not super important to have every single thing torqued exactly to spec, but I've got the wrench do I might as well do it right during assembly.
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#4
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Using generic torque specs is worse than not using a torque wrench at all. There aren't and cannot be generic torque specs that are at all meaningful. A proper torque spec. has to be based on a specific engineering goal, such as clamping strength, and based on the diameter and pitch of the fastener used.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (M6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (M6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 07-21-12 at 10:00 AM.
#5
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From: Coupeville, WA
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using generic torque specs is worse than not using a torque wrench at all. There aren't and cannot be generic torque specs that are at all meaningful. A proper torque spec, has to be based on a specific engineering goal, such as clamping strength, and based on the diameter and pitch of the fastener used.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (m6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. Keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (m6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. Keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
this
#6
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From: Toledo, OH
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Steamroller, Panasonic DX-3000, Trek 4900
Generic Torque Guide?
I'll ask a different question then. Does anyone know what the torque spec is on the seatpost clamp on a Leader 722TS frame?
#7
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Using generic torque specs is worse than not using a torque wrench at all. There aren't and cannot be generic torque specs that are at all meaningful. A proper torque spec. has to be based on a specific engineering goal, such as clamping strength, and based on the diameter and pitch of the fastener used.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (M6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
One of the worst places to apply a generic torque spec is on bearing adjustments such as headsets. While the screw is fairly standard (M6x1), the proper preload pressure of the bearings varies tremendously depending on the type and angle of contact. The same load that may be inadequate for one type of headset will overload and rapidly destroy another.
Rather than blindly applying what may be inappropriate specs., learn what fasteners feel like, and use the minimum torque that's sufficient to meet the goal, ie. keeping a seatpost tight enough not to slip or twist.
#8
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Bikes: Pedal Force RS, Serotta "Atlanta", Gitane "Tour de France", (2) Specialized "Stumpjumper", Trek "950"
I've never been able to locate torque specs for seatpost clamps. It needs to be tight enough to prevent the saddle from slipping & turning. If you have a carbon post, THAT is the big concern. You don't want to over tighten and damage the post. I spray carbo grip on my carbon post and tighten to 5Nm. Seems to work for me.
#9
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From: Northern Virginia
Bikes: Specialized Crux Elite X1, Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert, Specialized Crux Disc
My Specialized Crux is not carbon, nor is the seat post. I was given 55 in. lbs. from Specialized as the spec.
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Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
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Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
#10
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
From my experience if you are clamping a carbon fiber tube don't use the torque spec for the clamp. You really need to know what the cf tube can safely take. Don't ask me how I know this.
#11
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I do all of that by feeling, common sense and carbon assembly paste. With that the torque needed is reduced a lot, in some parts even like 30% less torque is needed. So why you might need a torque guide, even i been noticing that it depends on the manufacturer and their tolerances the torque you have to put in some parts, between you and me i dont believe them too much because if the torque wrench is not calibrated then the danger of overtorquing something is pretty big. And believe me i have seen it with one of my friends, he called me panicking because he messed up one of his carbon stems, his trustly torque wrench was bad, a bolt went bye bye.
Well good luck
just my experience
over 30 years working in my own stuff, i dont know it all but so far never snapped a bolt or messed up any of my carbon bikes and parts because i went HULK in the tools, I'm just carefull
Well good luck
just my experience
over 30 years working in my own stuff, i dont know it all but so far never snapped a bolt or messed up any of my carbon bikes and parts because i went HULK in the tools, I'm just carefull
#12
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That the clamp can take x torque, doesnt mean the seatpost can take the same torque w/o being smashed
Sadly a lot of parts have to work together and then the problems starts, that a stem clamp takes whatever torque doesnt mean the handlebar has to do it aswell
Carbon paste (highly recommended) and tight by feeling, turn little by little until the parts doesn't move and dont abuse if the bolt actually can turn 3/4 turns more if you go hulk to it.
Sadly a lot of parts have to work together and then the problems starts, that a stem clamp takes whatever torque doesnt mean the handlebar has to do it aswell
Carbon paste (highly recommended) and tight by feeling, turn little by little until the parts doesn't move and dont abuse if the bolt actually can turn 3/4 turns more if you go hulk to it.Thread
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