freewheel
08-17-12 | 09:57 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 22
freewheel
I have a bike with the freewheel in the bottom bracket, not at the rear hub. It feels like it's stripped, cranking with any real force cause the cranks to just slip right through, and not drive the bike. Can this be fixed? I'm totally unfamiliar with this type of freewheel, wondering how to replace it if necessary.
08-17-12 | 11:57 PM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
This is called front freewheel and while uncommon is still serviceable.
These systems are fairly robust, and rarely fail with parts breaking. Most of the time, rust, dried grease, or dirt are interfering with the action of the ratchet mechanism causing it not to engage solidly. Often you don't even need to disassemble, but can get by squirting in some solvent, working the mechanism to clean the insides, then flushing it out. Follow that by a rinse, dry and fresh oil and there's a decent chance that it'll function like new. The hardest part of the job being cleaning up afterward.
If all else fails you can replace it with a conventional rear freewheel system, but this involves some pricey parts - new crank and bottom bracket, and new rear wheel - and so is only worthwhile if you have used parts to transfer, or buy a used or crashed bike at a yard sale for the parts needed.
These systems are fairly robust, and rarely fail with parts breaking. Most of the time, rust, dried grease, or dirt are interfering with the action of the ratchet mechanism causing it not to engage solidly. Often you don't even need to disassemble, but can get by squirting in some solvent, working the mechanism to clean the insides, then flushing it out. Follow that by a rinse, dry and fresh oil and there's a decent chance that it'll function like new. The hardest part of the job being cleaning up afterward.
If all else fails you can replace it with a conventional rear freewheel system, but this involves some pricey parts - new crank and bottom bracket, and new rear wheel - and so is only worthwhile if you have used parts to transfer, or buy a used or crashed bike at a yard sale for the parts needed.
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FB
Chain-L site
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 08-18-12 at 12:04 AM.
08-18-12 | 03:28 AM
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,391
Likes: 2
From: Snowy midwest
Just out of curiosity, what kind of bicycle do you have? i have heard of these front freewheels on one or two models of old Schwinns. I THINK they were on an old version of the Caliente?
Anyway, they are pretty rare and pretty cool.
Anyway, they are pretty rare and pretty cool.
08-18-12 | 06:44 AM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: NashVegas
Bikes: 1979 Schwinn Caliente - 2002 Trek 4900 Alpha
This is called front freewheel and while uncommon is still serviceable.
These systems are fairly robust, and rarely fail with parts breaking. Most of the time, rust, dried grease, or dirt are interfering with the action of the ratchet mechanism causing it not to engage solidly. Often you don't even need to disassemble, but can get by squirting in some solvent, working the mechanism to clean the insides, then flushing it out. Follow that by a rinse, dry and fresh oil and there's a decent chance that it'll function like new. The hardest part of the job being cleaning up afterward.
If all else fails you can replace it with a conventional rear freewheel system, but this involves some pricey parts - new crank and bottom bracket, and new rear wheel - and so is only worthwhile if you have used parts to transfer, or buy a used or crashed bike at a yard sale for the parts needed.
These systems are fairly robust, and rarely fail with parts breaking. Most of the time, rust, dried grease, or dirt are interfering with the action of the ratchet mechanism causing it not to engage solidly. Often you don't even need to disassemble, but can get by squirting in some solvent, working the mechanism to clean the insides, then flushing it out. Follow that by a rinse, dry and fresh oil and there's a decent chance that it'll function like new. The hardest part of the job being cleaning up afterward.
If all else fails you can replace it with a conventional rear freewheel system, but this involves some pricey parts - new crank and bottom bracket, and new rear wheel - and so is only worthwhile if you have used parts to transfer, or buy a used or crashed bike at a yard sale for the parts needed.
I still ride my 79 Caliente and love it.
Easy enough to remove the crank to inspect and clean.
My biggest problem is that it has the Shimano Postiron ll and needs a special cable and housing ( push/pull ) for the RD.
( heck, the original Postiron had 2 pull/pull cables to RD ! )
Enjoy the looks I get when stopped at a light and my chain just keeps on a truckin'.
