What tools exactly do I need for this?
#1
What tools exactly do I need for this?
Trying to disassemble this bottom bracket and it is quite different than what I have seen before.

After a quick google search I need a pin-spanner, and possibly a tool for the lock ring (or just a large pair of channel locks)
Any home-brew solution to taking this apart?

After a quick google search I need a pin-spanner, and possibly a tool for the lock ring (or just a large pair of channel locks)
Any home-brew solution to taking this apart?
#2
All my bikes as a kid were like this. You only need a hammer, a center punch and an old flat screw driver. For the outer bit you use the screwdriver and hammer. For the inner bit you use the punch and the hammer.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
#3
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
This will work if you only intend to remove the bottom bracket and replace it. The fixed cup (the drive side) can be removed by clamping its flats in a bench vise and using the frame as the lever (if it's an English bottom bracket, the drive side is left-hand threaded). If you intend to clean, lube and reuse it, proper pin and hook spanners are far better to get the correct adjustment.
#4
+1 HillRider
If you are disposing of the parts to replace with a sealed BB, then have at it with a hammer and punch. If you plan to reuse the parts, two inexpensive wrenches will get the job done properly and you'll be able to use them every time you regrease and adjust the BB. There are advantages to cup and ball BBs, but convenience isn't one of them. If the old BB is well used, it is worth it to pull the fixed cup for inspection and if you are replacing the entire BB assembly, always replace the fixed cup at the same time. The vise method works pretty well most of the time, but if you have a stubborn one, your LBS will have a job specific tool that locks onto the flats making removal almost fool proof. Once you have the spindle and bearings out and most of the grease removed, spray a little penetrating oil into the BB shell with the fixed cup down and let it sit for an hour or two to make removal easier. If you are really lucky, the fixed cup will come out with minimal persuasion. Other times, you'd swear the thing was welded in. As mentioned, pay attention to your thread direction.
Don't try to remove the fixed cup with a big water pump pliers (aka Channel Lock) or even a big cresent wrench, the result is usually rounded flats and busted knuckles, probably a ding in the paint to boot.
If you are disposing of the parts to replace with a sealed BB, then have at it with a hammer and punch. If you plan to reuse the parts, two inexpensive wrenches will get the job done properly and you'll be able to use them every time you regrease and adjust the BB. There are advantages to cup and ball BBs, but convenience isn't one of them. If the old BB is well used, it is worth it to pull the fixed cup for inspection and if you are replacing the entire BB assembly, always replace the fixed cup at the same time. The vise method works pretty well most of the time, but if you have a stubborn one, your LBS will have a job specific tool that locks onto the flats making removal almost fool proof. Once you have the spindle and bearings out and most of the grease removed, spray a little penetrating oil into the BB shell with the fixed cup down and let it sit for an hour or two to make removal easier. If you are really lucky, the fixed cup will come out with minimal persuasion. Other times, you'd swear the thing was welded in. As mentioned, pay attention to your thread direction.
Don't try to remove the fixed cup with a big water pump pliers (aka Channel Lock) or even a big cresent wrench, the result is usually rounded flats and busted knuckles, probably a ding in the paint to boot.
#5
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After you get the Adjustable Cup and axle out, Sheldon had a workaround [on the web]
for a fixed cup removal tool.. with a LARGE bolt and nut and a stack of split washers,
to grip the fixed cup itself. to unscrew it.
for a fixed cup removal tool.. with a LARGE bolt and nut and a stack of split washers,
to grip the fixed cup itself. to unscrew it.
#6
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Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC
All my bikes as a kid were like this. You only need a hammer, a center punch and an old flat screw driver. For the outer bit you use the screwdriver and hammer. For the inner bit you use the punch and the hammer.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
Chombi
#7
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
A Park-
HCW-5 is the hook spanner for the lock ring, but you can use a water pump pliers if you aren't fussy.
SPA-1 pin spanner, but often you can use a couple Phillips screw drivers on the opposite "holes".
No picture of the fixed cup, but possibly a Park HCW-4 (the "other " end may fit your pin spacing for the adjustable cup)
Use penetrating oil in advance of removal.
After removing the adjustable side and "innards", it's easier to get the penetrating oil where you need it for the fixed cup.
lay the bike on its side with the drive side down. Drip PO in from the top and let it run down the BB shell into the area needed.
Apply multiple times with a wait period in between.
HCW-5 is the hook spanner for the lock ring, but you can use a water pump pliers if you aren't fussy.
SPA-1 pin spanner, but often you can use a couple Phillips screw drivers on the opposite "holes".
No picture of the fixed cup, but possibly a Park HCW-4 (the "other " end may fit your pin spacing for the adjustable cup)
Use penetrating oil in advance of removal.
After removing the adjustable side and "innards", it's easier to get the penetrating oil where you need it for the fixed cup.
lay the bike on its side with the drive side down. Drip PO in from the top and let it run down the BB shell into the area needed.
Apply multiple times with a wait period in between.
#8
All my bikes as a kid were like this. You only need a hammer, a center punch and an old flat screw driver. For the outer bit you use the screwdriver and hammer. For the inner bit you use the punch and the hammer.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
The good ol' days when you could fix stuff with a few basic tools.
#9

Per request, the fixed cup. Looks like I need the hook spammer for this side aswell.
Is the park hook spanner a decent tool? Quick look at it online seems like it is rather thin, and would be prone to slipping off (especially while trying to get this fixed cup off)? Maybe I am just looking into it too much.
Looks like I will place an order for the SPA-1 and possibly the HCW-5 if it doesn't suck too bad.
#10
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
The Park tool is OK for the price.
I haven't had issues with mine.
I've never seen a fixed cup like that!
IF you plan on reusing it, I think I'd try to leave it "fixed" and hope the race is good.
You might get "lucky" with the hook spanner, but I wouldn't count on it.
Maybe one of the other posters that actually does this for a living knows what the proper tool is?
What bike is it on?
I haven't had issues with mine.
I've never seen a fixed cup like that!
IF you plan on reusing it, I think I'd try to leave it "fixed" and hope the race is good.
You might get "lucky" with the hook spanner, but I wouldn't count on it.
Maybe one of the other posters that actually does this for a living knows what the proper tool is?
What bike is it on?
#12
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From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
The Parktool HCW-5 will work on that fix cup . You can use a hammer and punch to get it started , it will come off in a clockwise motion .
#13
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
I'm guessing you will be very lucky if the BB parts are useable - looks pretty neglected, rusty, dry.
#14
The bottom bracket actually feels decent, smooth but 'sticky'.
Busting the whole bike apart for a friend, so while I am in there, I might as well go all the way.
I will report back with the results once the tools come in.
Busting the whole bike apart for a friend, so while I am in there, I might as well go all the way.
I will report back with the results once the tools come in.
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JohnnyGalaga
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