Got a customer with a messed up bottom bracket, the spindle isn't secure and the crankarms are therefore really loose and off-axis. So I'll almost definitely need to replace it, but I can't get the damned thing out.

It's obvious that the bike hasn't really been properly maintained, the left BB cup has just been jammed with dirt and rust... I've never had this much trouble though, and it doesn't help that the spline tool (Park BBT-22) just keeps popping out whenever I put a significant amount of force on it. I've dealt with this before, it's not like I don't know what I'm doing, but like I said it's the worst I've seen.

So, does anyone have tips for getting this thing loose? I've tried B'laster, breaker bar, just about everything.

What's the interface type? Square taper, Octalink, ISIS? For a square taper, get an M8x1.0 mm (NOT M8x1.25) bolt about 40 mm long and use it to clamp the BBT-22 tool to the splines so it cant pop off. For an Octalink or ISIS spindle use a hub qr squewer to clamp the tool in place.

Heat + a couple of sharp wacks with a 2lb hammer.
Diesel fuel makes a good penetrating oil (you may need to reapply over several days if its real stuck)

First try using the spindle bolt or screw of the same thread to lock the tool to the cup so you can torque the haill out of it without is popping loose. Impact wrenches work wonders with this. If all is OK, you'll either get the cup out or totally shave off the splines.

When all else fails, if the rings are aluminum use a 1-1/4 to core out the face of the lockring, and drive the cartridge out from the other side. Once that' done, it's grunt file work to remove the remainder of the ring, and possibly (most likely) clean up the threads with a BB tap. IMO, this is only warranted if the frame and overall bike quality is high enough, and from the sound of it this won't be.

If it comes down to it use the methods above to secure the tool to the bb and put the tool into a vice. Use the frame for leverage.

Take it down to a automobile tire dealer. Ask a tech to use an impact wrench with your tool. I'm assuming you don't have an impact wrench. If he doesn't charge you, tip the guy.

Edit: make sure he turns it in the proper direction.

WHat you can use is a quick release to hold the tool to the cup, you have to do that 1st. You might need help of somebody else too to hold the tool in place.

Once you do that get the largest tube wrench you can find and crank it to get it lose.

Use a bar clamp across the BB to hold the tool from popping out. Use a long breaker bar to drive the tool.

Since you are using a BBt-22 I'll assume it's an ISIS bottom bracket. As said before, best to use a QR to hold in the tool. The below photo comes from this Park Tool site. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...et-service-bbt

Once you've secured the tool, having the tool in the vise, turning the frame is the go.

Yeah I had already turned tge frame, idk how I didn't thinknof using a bolt to secure the tool. But with the breaker bar I'm using, I'm putting so much force on it that I'm worriee about bending the seatpost (as it's on a repair stand). I'll try all of the above, thank you.

Here is a success story, he had the same tool and took it to a corner auto repair:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post14381292

Post #47 is the one I'm pointing out.

Edit: And another success story, one that I was personally involved in:

https://pedalpioneer.com/?p=269

My worst fears have been confirmed. The cup was cross-threaded, so it fought me all the way out... but hey, it's out!

I secured the tool with a 50mm bolt. That was the key, big thanks to whoever made that suggestion (and everyone else who posted here, regardless of whether I ended up needing your method). I'm actually a bit disappointed in myself for having not already thought of that, I tried plenty of other dumb things to keep it on there.

So I've got a BB with smushed threads, there were no bearings left inside, it was completely trashed and will need to be replaced. Glad to have it out though, hopefully the frame wasn't damaged by the cross-threading.

Also, kind of disturbing - the guy says he's never had anyone work on the bike before, which means Raleigh probably sent it out from the factory that way.

after the bb tool is locked in with a bolt i have been known to step on the ratchet. the ratchet is a snap on long flex in 1/2 dr so it can take the heat, if not the snap on truck is here in a week. i don't bother with breaker bars too much. speaking of impact guns i just bought one at a yard sale today. ingersoll rand 2131 composite for 2 dollars today. good deal

That the cups threads are gone doesnt mean the threads in the BB shell are gone. Some cups are so crappy that basically the threads get stuck in the BB shell when you are taking the CUPs out, what you have to do is clean really well and inspect the BB shell threads, probably you have some aluminum pieces in there.

The other detail, if the frame was never prep and probably is did not, then after like zillions of years is almost sure that the cups were going to be frozen, doesnt mean the factory did cross thread the cups, if they did not prep the frame to allow faster/cheaper assembly then you have the problem...

Just clean the threads and inspect, probably are fine. Screw up an steel BB shell is really hard but monkeys actually do it. IN doubt and having some threads in there just take the frame to a shop and get that chased how it should.

bring it your lbs

Guys, I am the LBS. Just not a very experienced one, haha. Thanks for your comments.