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Rear Derailleur Adjustment

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Old 09-21-12, 08:33 PM
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Rear Derailleur Adjustment

Hey guys,

I have a C'Dale Synapse with SRAM Force. I'm having an issue with adjusting the rear derailleur. First off, I have the low limit screw set all the way in and I cannot get the upper pulley aligned quite right with the big cog. Alignment with the small cog is not an issue. I crank the rear barrel adjuster all the way in and back it out 1 turn per SRAM and I release the inline barrel adjuster all the way. So I tighten the bable best I can by hand and start the adjustment but it's not happening. In order to get it to drop onto the 12 cog on the large ring I sacrifice the ability to get into the low cogs, although I dont need to get into the 27 cog when in the large ring.

Any tips?
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Old 09-21-12, 08:48 PM
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Both the park tools and Sheldon Brown websites have excellent RD setup instructions. Youtube is another source. Your description involving the low limit screw, for example, doesn't make a lot of sense, but you don't set these limit screws, either H or L, by looking at the alignment. The H screw is set to that the chain will just drop into the smallest cog. The L screw is set as far in as possible while still being able to get into the largest cog. While you're setting these screws you really don't worry about the intermediate cogs.
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Old 09-21-12, 08:56 PM
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After setting the H and L limit screws to allow the derailleur to move from the smallest to largest rear cog, set the cable and tension it so one click at the shifter equals one shift in the rear.

In setting the limit screws you want the chain to align with the respective cogs at the high and low end.

Once set, cycle the transmission through its range to bed in the cables and make any small adjustments that are required.
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Old 09-21-12, 08:57 PM
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First read my reply to this thread. https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-shifts-poorly

I would seperate the rear der movement/range from the shifter's control. By pulling on the cable (I hope you don't have internal routing) run through the range and see what happens. If the results are different then the shifter controlled results, then the cable run might be a problem, friction... By working the rear der with one's hand the limit screws can be set independent of the shifter/cable aspects. To understand the cause and effects of the system is important.

Also understand that a perfect system will need constant tuning. The tolorance of a 10 or 11 speed system is over whelmed by basic maintance and set up issues. This is the cost of so many gears. (Unless yopu go electronic). Andy.
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Old 09-21-12, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rdtompki
Both the park tools and Sheldon Brown websites have excellent RD setup instructions. Youtube is another source. Your description involving the low limit screw, for example, doesn't make a lot of sense, but you don't set these limit screws, either H or L, by looking at the alignment. The H screw is set to that the chain will just drop into the smallest cog. The L screw is set as far in as possible while still being able to get into the largest cog. While you're setting these screws you really don't worry about the intermediate cogs.
Per the SRAM instructions this is exactly how you do it. Get into the largest cog in the small ring?
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Old 09-21-12, 09:15 PM
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A properly set up system should not need constant tuning.

The range of nyy rear d can be checked by hand with the cable disconnected, one merely has to push it inboard and be cautious to make sure it does not overshift past the most inboard cog into the spokes.

It sounds like the op almost has it save for his or her setting of the low limit screw and setting of proper cable tension.

One common problem is that the indexed shifter might have a click stored in it and one needs to make sure it is downshifted completely before set up can be done.

This set up advice only works if the frame and dropout alignment is spot on and that the wheel is set squarely in the dropout. Issues here will make it impossible to set up an indexed system.
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Old 09-21-12, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
A properly set up system should not need constant tuning.

The range of nyy rear d can be checked by hand with the cable disconnected, one merely has to push it inboard and be cautious to make sure it does not overshift past the most inboard cog into the spokes.

It sounds like the op almost has it save for his or her setting of the low limit screw and setting of proper cable tension.

One common problem is that the indexed shifter might have a click stored in it and one needs to make sure it is downshifted completely before set up can be done.

This set up advice only works if the frame and dropout alignment is spot on and that the wheel is set squarely in the dropout. Issues here will make it impossible to set up an indexed system.
Do you recommend inline barrel adjusters or do these tend to allow slack in the cable thus causing the need to fine tune on a regular basis?
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Old 09-21-12, 10:00 PM
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The inline adjusters allow for fine tuning and should not contribute to cable slack once everything is settled and bedded in.
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