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Old 10-02-12 | 12:21 PM
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Grease

Went to my local bike store looking for grease to repack bearings int he hubs, and decided they want too much for specialty greases and lubes. It's all just grease, right?

Looking for recommendations on good grease to repack my bearings. I just bought the bike, and would like to break it down and lube everything. Used to do this all the time when I was a kid (30+ years ago), and I usually used whatever my Dad was using for the cars. Things can't have changed that much. Grease is grease, and metal bearings are still metal bearings. I would guess a good synthetic auto grease would be equally as effective, if not better, than some repackaged bike brand made to look better than auto grease. Am I wrong?

The guy also swore by some chain spray at $20 a can. I used motor oil when I was a kid, and never had any chain issues that I can remember. I may want something a little different now, but $20 for a spray can??? Is there any real benefit, short of shaving a few thousandths of a second off your time if one were racing or something? No, I'm just your average rider who enjoys the fresh air, sites from the seat, and exercise. I bike for fun.

The bike also has a shock on the front forks. Never dealt with one of these, so I'm not sure what to do about it.

It's about a 2004, Giant Cypress DX ladies bike (my wifes bike). I plan on disassembling the hubs, cleaning them off in kerosene or gas, and repacking them with fresh synthetic grease. Chances are it's never been done before, so it's long overdue.

Advice on any of it would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by andreasjva; 10-02-12 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 10-02-12 | 12:43 PM
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You did note the word 'archive' in the lower left corner of this page?

there has been abundant priors on that ..
but yea A big tub of grease at the auto parts store is fine,
Im still using the tub of Boat Trailer wheel bearing grease I got 25 years ago.
but the small tubes of like Phil Wood grease I got at the bike shop are so much tidier .
not much has to go on your hands, then, FWIW.

for your hub overhaul dont use the same bearing balls again

grade 25 at the industrial bearing supply houses are packaged by the 1000 count.
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Old 10-02-12 | 12:51 PM
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hmmm.... I never thought about changing bearings, but I suppose that couldn't hurt. I bought the bike used and I bet it doesn't have 500 miles on it since 2004, but bearings are cheap.
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Old 10-02-12 | 02:51 PM
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Marine grade axle grease is fine, and cheap. The best stuff is made for things like boat trailers, theat get submerged when boats are launched. Another great product is Lubriplate 630aa, which is the marine grade version (note 630aa, not 630a). I love this stuff because it's softer so there's less viscous drag, than with some of the automotive grades.
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Old 10-02-12 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
You did note the word 'archive' in the lower left corner of this page?

there has been abundant priors on that ..
but yea A big tub of grease at the auto parts store is fine,
Im still using the tub of Boat Trailer wheel bearing grease I got 25 years ago.
but the small tubes of like Phil Wood grease I got at the bike shop are so much tidier .
not much has to go on your hands, then, FWIW.

for your hub overhaul dont use the same bearing balls again

grade 25 at the industrial bearing supply houses are packaged by the 1000 count.
I know that they are cheap, but there is no reason to replace the bearings if they still have their original finish.
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Old 10-02-12 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by davidad
I know that they are cheap, but there is no reason to replace the bearings if they still have their original finish.
You can see wear on bearing balls with your naked eyes? Amazing!
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Old 10-02-12 | 06:17 PM
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I use marine grade bearing grease. A 1 pound container costs less than $5 and lasts for years.

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Old 10-02-12 | 06:45 PM
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The main thing about greases is you never mix different kinds. Clean all of an unknown kind out before adding anything else.

Originally Posted by Grand Bois
You can see wear on bearing balls with your naked eyes? Amazing!
If even just one of the balls goes bad, then the rest of the bearing is questionable too.
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Old 10-02-12 | 06:55 PM
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Where does it say Ärchive"?
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Old 10-02-12 | 07:59 PM
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Gasoline is fine for powering internal combustion engines but not so much for cleaning bike parts. (Danger Will Robinson!)
I usually just wipe off dirty grease and then apply new.
Grease is grease, more or less.
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Old 10-02-12 | 08:31 PM
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I am of the mindset that anyone who thinks aerosol chain lube is a good idea is a fool, especially if using a disc brake bike.

grease in not grease, but there are other types of grease that work great for bicycles that are much cheaper than the stuff at the LBS. I would make sure you get a marine grade grease so it withstands moisture much better.
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Old 10-03-12 | 07:03 AM
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Consensus says marine grease. So glad I asked, because I never would have considered that option. Makes sense though. I'll inspect the bearings before arbitrarily replacing them. As I said, I doubt the bike has anymore than about 500 miles on it. I think it's your typical adult paper weight from someone imaging they were going to get in shape. Everything was original, but most of the rubber was somewhat dry rotted.

What about the front shock? Is that something that should be disassembled, cleaned, and lubed? It's been on the bike for about 8 years, and I have no idea what kind of shape it's in, or what's inside. It seems to work okay. Is it just a big spring inside? I originally said 2004, but it looks like a 2000 stock Giant Cypress DX. Is there some place I can easily find an exploded diagram of this bike?

This is almost exactly what it looks like, with the exception of a shock absorber up front. Maybe it was an option, or the DX version was an added shock???


Last edited by andreasjva; 10-03-12 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 10-03-12 | 07:34 AM
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From: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.

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Years of experience, and 5000 bikes later, say marine grade bearing grease works the best for the price. It may not be the most viscous or the manufacturers recommendation, but for as little as $3.99 you can't beat it. Even the dealer cost for Park Tool's bike grease is higher, and oxidizes too fast for fleet applications.

For home mechanics, you can get smaller tubes, but the best deal is a one pound can with a resealable cap, and should last quite a while.
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