Wanted to service my bb and ran into a problem? Notice how the Part tool insert goes up tight against the raised portion of the crank arm. All the treads of the insert are inside, but apparently it would go in a bit further if not for the rib on the crank arm. The “off” side has about ¼ gap between the crank and the raised portion of the insert. Am I ok to go full torque to get the arm off. It’s a high mileage bike so I will need a good bit of torque to get it off. Thanks for any info.

If the tool is engaging all the threads in the crank arm,
it should come off without stripping the threads in the crank.

get out the cheater pipe to go over the handle if you are not strong enough,
to turn the short handle.
smoothly applied force better than sharp hammer blows..

There are other removers which won't limit depth, but before springing for one, count turns to see how many threads are engaged.

You only need 4-5 threads, since that's all that many cranks have anyway. If you're only getting three or less, it might work, but considering the relative values of cranks and tools, I'd but a tool that threaded to the bottom.

The Park CWP-7 tool has about 20mm of clearance below its hex which should allow threading almost any crank to the bottom of its threads.

To ensure that all the threads in the crank arm are engaged you can measure the depth of the threaded hole in the crank and compare it to the measurement of the portion of the tool at the point it will not go in any further. If the two measurements are relatively equal then you should be ok. If the depth of the hole is greater then you may want to try a different crank arm extractor for a better fit.

That looks like an older park crank arm extractor. The one you have is the CCP-2 and the nut like section between the threaded ends measures 25.4mm (1inch). Park revised this tool a couple of times....the current version, CCP-22, has only one threaded section and the tip on the end can be removed to use the tool with SRAM power spline cranks. The CCP-22 (as well as later versions of the CCP-2) only have one threaded section and the nut like section is only 22mm wide. The older double threaded section CCP-2 has a length of about 14mm measured from the the face of the nut like section to the end of the wider threaded section. The newer models measure about 19mm from nut section face to end of the threads. Find a co-op/friend/shop with the a newer model of the crank puller and you should be good to go.

-j

OK....I measured the insert and depth of the crank hole; also counted the turns as I threaded in the insert, and all threads seemed to be engaged. Torqued on it with a 2' pipe extension and applied much more force than any I have removed previosly and it didn't budge. I'm scared to use much more force.

OK, time for desperate measures.

Leave the remover in place, tightened as far as your comfortable with. With both brake locked so the bike can't move, stand on the pedal and do lunges. Often this is just that extra bit of force needed to pop it off.

Or, replace the crank bolt, backed off about one turn from tight, and ride around locally looking for steep hills, or do wind sprints. The goal is to stand on the pedals as much as possible until you hear or feel the click of the crank popping loose.

Lastly, you can buy a pair of Jacobs chuck removal wedges and use them behind the arm to push it off.

If you are sure the end of the screw inside is pushing on the end of the square shaft and you have it wound up with that much force. I would next give the center of the puller a sharp rap with a hammer. Lots of times I have seen that work sending a shock wave down tool will break the friction and the puller force will move the fit. My next step would be to put some heat on the crank with a heat gun not a torch. The aluminum will heat quickly and should expand the fit while the puller exerts the force to get it to move. You don’t know but the past assembly could have been done with Loctite or something and the heat will help with that.

Don't have a wedge, but will try the tighten and wrap tomorrow when I'm fresh.

Success! Used what I call a dead blow hammer on the arm of the park tool and I guess the constant pressure of the tool and the jolt of the hammer blows did the trick. Thanks for all the suggestions/info.