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Seized Quill stem?

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Old 10-10-12 | 12:39 PM
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Seized Quill stem?

Hi,

It seems I have another problem and obtaining this bike has become an adventure on bicycle mechanics.

I am not sure if I am removing the quill stem properly, which initially I was definitely not. I started off by removing the quill stem bolt completely but realized that this may have caused the wedge/expander bolt to come loose. I shook the bike around and there doesn't seem to be any rattling noises so I don't think I have lost the bolt in the steerer tube and the bolt threads back on tightly. I tried hammering the bolt but the stem still won't come out. I am not sure what to do from here since a lot of the information I am reading on quill stems is confusing. I have a couple of specific questions:

When I loosen the bolt and hammer it, how loose/tight should the bolt be?
What should it feel like if the wedge has loosened but the stem is seized?
Can I just hammer the bolt with a piece of dowel on top of it because I can't get the hammer inside the space with the bolt.
If I have lost the wedge in the steerer tube how should I fish it out if the stem is stuck?

Stem Model = CODA aluminum front loader
Bike Mode = 1999 Cannondale R2000

Any other tips would be much appreciated also. Thanks of reading.
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Old 10-10-12 | 01:23 PM
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You raise the bolt up, proud, high enough to tap on it with a hammer ,
to loosen the wedge..
if it still wont come out ,
I expect Due to prior poor maintenance , it has corroded in place .
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Old 10-10-12 | 02:05 PM
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Screw the bolt into the wedge until it bottoms, then unscrew until it raises about 1/8" or 3mm. Tap it down so it drops. You may have to beat on it , and if so, protect it with a block of wood. You'll know the wedge is free because you can freely lift the bolt the original 1/8" or so.

Note on some short frames, especially if the stem is inserted as far as possible, it's sometimes impossible to push the wedge down because it bottoms against a taper where the steerer tube's wall gets thicker (lower 2" or so on most forks)

If this may apply to you, tap the wedge down as well as you can, work the stem uo a bit, then push the wedge down some more until it's totally free.

If the wedge is free, ie the bolt has free vertical play. but the stem still won't move, it's probably seized because of galvanic corrosion. Search for stuck seatpost threads here for ideas for how to deal with it.
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Old 10-10-12 | 02:08 PM
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Think it might be time for that quill stem sticky yet?
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Old 10-10-12 | 06:41 PM
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Be aware that heavy twisting of the bars to free a stuck stem, while holding the wheel from turning, can neatly break one or both of the fork's axle-slot "dropout" tab ends, or worse, you could get cracks down there which might lead to failure while riding.

Yes, I've seen a dropout get broken off this way, more than once.
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Old 10-11-12 | 04:24 AM
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this method works when all else fails

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tem?highlight=

ps its a very nice bike to ride :-)
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Old 10-11-12 | 02:24 PM
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I finally managed to get it out! Took a piece of wood and hammered the bolt down with a plastic pallet a couple of times. After that I just put the wheel my legs and shifted left and right with the handle bars. It did end up making some loud squeaky noises but after a couple more turns back and forth while pulling up, I managed to get the stem out. Everything has now been removed from the frame! Time to start cleaning and greasing everything. Thanks for the help.

Also, does anybody have any suggestions for cleaners for specific parts? Since this is my first time cleaning and overhauling a bike completely. Citrus degreaser on everything?
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Old 10-11-12 | 03:00 PM
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I like Kerosene, for a solvent.

Dish soap and water for the Dirt.
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