One inch stem mod question
#1
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From: Colorado, USA
One inch stem mod question
I was looking for a winter romper bike, found a used one for sale that should make due
Here's the bike:
https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/bid/3387036079.html
However, I don't like that drop stem for how I'm going to ride it.
It looks like a 1 inch stem.. so, I'm thinking I could simply swap it for a higher rise stem, something like this:
https://www.huskybicycles.com/Merchan...Store_Code=hbs
Question is: will that work? Simply swap out the stem or will I require other parts.
Assuming the handlebar radius matches (could get a new handlebar, if necessary, so this shouldn't be issue).
Here's the bike:
https://fortcollins.craigslist.org/bid/3387036079.html
However, I don't like that drop stem for how I'm going to ride it.
It looks like a 1 inch stem.. so, I'm thinking I could simply swap it for a higher rise stem, something like this:
https://www.huskybicycles.com/Merchan...Store_Code=hbs
Question is: will that work? Simply swap out the stem or will I require other parts.
Assuming the handlebar radius matches (could get a new handlebar, if necessary, so this shouldn't be issue).
#2
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Curious use of the word "drop" for a stem that goes up...
Make sure the stems' quills (the part that slides into the fork's steerer) are a diameter match. There two common familys of compatibility, both have an inch aspect. The old standard was a 22.2mm (7/8") quill fitting oinside of a one inch (OD) steerer, called the one inch standard. And the 25.4mm/1.0" quill fitting inside the 1.125" OD steerer, called the 1 1/8" standard. Both have a part that is on inch...but are different.
The other issue that might come into play is the length of the cables. With a greater reach from the frame and ft brake to the higher location of the bars the cables might have to be lengthened.
Lastly is the seat. I've found that with a more upright body there is often the need for a saddle with greater rear width. Andy.
Make sure the stems' quills (the part that slides into the fork's steerer) are a diameter match. There two common familys of compatibility, both have an inch aspect. The old standard was a 22.2mm (7/8") quill fitting oinside of a one inch (OD) steerer, called the one inch standard. And the 25.4mm/1.0" quill fitting inside the 1.125" OD steerer, called the 1 1/8" standard. Both have a part that is on inch...but are different.
The other issue that might come into play is the length of the cables. With a greater reach from the frame and ft brake to the higher location of the bars the cables might have to be lengthened.
Lastly is the seat. I've found that with a more upright body there is often the need for a saddle with greater rear width. Andy.
#3
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First make sure of the stem diameter (like Andrew wisely mentions). If it is indeed 1 inch, then I'd would go with something like this 1 inch (@ ~$15): https://www.jensonusa.com/!HLz!3lIsiA...Fe57QgodKCIAvQ Better yet might be a mtn quill stem with a removable face plate, which will often give more bar/stem grip strength, and allow for a somewhat greater range of bar styles and types.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Colorado, USA
Curious use of the word "drop" for a stem that goes up...
Make sure the stems' quills (the part that slides into the fork's steerer) are a diameter match. There two common familys of compatibility, both have an inch aspect. The old standard was a 22.2mm (7/8") quill fitting oinside of a one inch (OD) steerer, called the one inch standard. And the 25.4mm/1.0" quill fitting inside the 1.125" OD steerer, called the 1 1/8" standard. Both have a part that is on inch...but are different.
The other issue that might come into play is the length of the cables. With a greater reach from the frame and ft brake to the higher location of the bars the cables might have to be lengthened.
Lastly is the seat. I've found that with a more upright body there is often the need for a saddle with greater rear width. Andy.
Make sure the stems' quills (the part that slides into the fork's steerer) are a diameter match. There two common familys of compatibility, both have an inch aspect. The old standard was a 22.2mm (7/8") quill fitting oinside of a one inch (OD) steerer, called the one inch standard. And the 25.4mm/1.0" quill fitting inside the 1.125" OD steerer, called the 1 1/8" standard. Both have a part that is on inch...but are different.
The other issue that might come into play is the length of the cables. With a greater reach from the frame and ft brake to the higher location of the bars the cables might have to be lengthened.
Lastly is the seat. I've found that with a more upright body there is often the need for a saddle with greater rear width. Andy.
Yeah, "drop" I used as loose term -- you get what I meant, though; I want upright position for slushing through snow, I find it easier than having an "aggressive" ride position.
When you say "old standard" .. how old we talking? I'd guess that bike is early-90's vintage and would have the newer generation that you described?
Seat and cabling are good points, would probably have to replace.
#5
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Those Kalloy stems are pretty good for the price. If you want to bring the bars back for more of an upright position, they make 60mm and 80mm versions, too: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1734
#6
This is one long stem. I hope you want a very upright riding position.
As far as the rest of the bike, apply the standard used bike checks, including testing if the stem and seatpost are corroded tight into the frame and whether the suspension fork is clapped-out. Assume that the chain and cassette are worn out. I have fixed up dozens of used bikes and I have only ever come across a single one in which the chain did NOT need replacing.
#7
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From: Colorado, USA
You should be able to do a direct swap with no other parts required. The "Husky Bikes" stem does not specify a clamp diameter, but I would give a 95% chance that it is sized for 25.4mm, which is the mountain standard.
This is one long stem. I hope you want a very upright riding position.
As far as the rest of the bike, apply the standard used bike checks, including testing if the stem and seatpost are corroded tight into the frame and whether the suspension fork is clapped-out. Assume that the chain and cassette are worn out. I have fixed up dozens of used bikes and I have only ever come across a single one in which the chain did NOT need replacing.
This is one long stem. I hope you want a very upright riding position.
As far as the rest of the bike, apply the standard used bike checks, including testing if the stem and seatpost are corroded tight into the frame and whether the suspension fork is clapped-out. Assume that the chain and cassette are worn out. I have fixed up dozens of used bikes and I have only ever come across a single one in which the chain did NOT need replacing.
Thanks all, great conversation!
#8
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,349
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Like FMB42 said make sure of the stem's quill diameter. We shop guys talk of "standards" but take that term loosely! One measurement is worth a thousand assumptions. Andy.
#10
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I'd say If they are both a 7/8" quill then you can replace one with the other .
there are stem riser extension tubes, too.. those you put the extension
in the fork, then the existing stem into the top of the extension tube.
You can expect once you raise your handlebars, all the cables and housing will be too short.
so then you replace all those too.
Other than using the stem raiser tube, and the existing stem,
also have to remove tape and levers to get the old stem off and the new one on
there are stem riser extension tubes, too.. those you put the extension
in the fork, then the existing stem into the top of the extension tube.
You can expect once you raise your handlebars, all the cables and housing will be too short.
so then you replace all those too.
Other than using the stem raiser tube, and the existing stem,
also have to remove tape and levers to get the old stem off and the new one on
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-07-12 at 05:09 PM.
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