I used to be a regular here, and coming back after a 3 year hiatus. In early 2007, I built up a Cannondale 2.8 frame (1996) and put ~7000 odd miles on it in a span of 2 years. The frameset when I bought it on eBay, came with a threaded 1" fork and headset installed. The steerer was cut too short and I had to get a threadless stem riser and adapter so I can raise the handlebar height a little. It didn't help much.

So now the idea is to do a complete overhaul in that area. I bought a Nashbar 1" threadless carbon fork and a Ritchey logic 1" threadless headset. The bike shop is 25 miles from my house and being the DIYer that I am, I would like to do as much of this work myself, as possible.

So my question is, in the absence of a headset press tool, what would be the bare minimum job that I must take to the bike shop? Should I get the top and bottom cups installed by the shop and then do everything else myself? I don't wish to cut the steerer just yet, so I guess I will need some spacers. Where do I get these spacers? Can the headset be fully installed even when the steerer is not cut?

I have never done any headset work, so I am feeling a bit lost here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Just do a Web search on "threadless headset spacers"; they go from cheap to expensive. You don't have to cut your steerer, you will just need to stack spacers above and/or below the stem so that they are 3mm to 5mm above the steerer. The top cap MUST bear on the spacers or stem NOT the steerer if you are to correctly adjust the headset. You can then shuffle spacers and the stem around until you find a height that you like; you can then cut it (or not) at the height you wish.

Here is an alternative method which does not use spacers to set the adjustment: https://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless

You can even mount two stems with this method: https://sheldonbrown.com/org/thorn/index.html

I've wondered about this as an option for uncut steerers for a while now-

https://problemsolversbike.com/produc...headset_spacer

Don't think it comes in 1", and I can guarantee that you wouldn't want to use it with a carbon steerer, but it's a pretty neat solution to a problem I hadn't considered.

Not sure why it wouldn't work with a carbon steerer; from the illustration it looks like all it does is expand vertically to compress the stem/spacer stack and adjust the bearing preload.

Do you have other information which indicates that it is unsuitable for carbon steerers?

Thank you for the replies. I just want to clarify that I don't have a carbon steerer.

Stacks of spacers can go above and below the threadless stem.
to ride and try the stem height Options, before cutting the steerer.

on my touring rig I have 2 stems, lower holds the handlebar bag mount.

I [falsely] thought the lock bolt on the bottom piece with the female threads would compress the steerer, but I now see that I was off base.

Gotta stop posting while rushing out the door.

That Problem Solvers variable spacer is a neat solution but, the web site doesn't say what diameter(s) and I assume it's 1-1/8" only. I also assume it works well on the correct diameter steerer.

Years ago Easton included a variable thickness spacer named the "Beartrap" with their all-carbon forks. It was a pair of ramped rings with the ramps facing each other and a bolt that rotated one ring relative to the other so the ramps climbed each other and increased the spacer thickness. Here is their instruction sheet: https://www.eastoncycling.com/bike/wp...eartrap-EN.pdf

It was a very neat idea but, unfortunately, a failed design. The adjustment wouldn't hold and the rwo rings rotated loose from vibration duing every ride. Easton soon dropped it. I had two of these that accompanied Easton forks and Easton sent me replacement standard compression plugs at no cost when I called to ask why I couldn't get the Beartraps to hold their adjustment.

Didn't Sheldon Brown have a post where he used a seatpost collar to compress the headset so he could have a long steerer tube without spacers? Don't remember where off the top of my head and am too lazy to google it, though.

"Didn't Sheldon Brown have a post where he used a seatpost collar to compress the headset so he could have a long steerer tube without spacers? Don't remember where off the top of my head and am too lazy to google it, though. "

See post #2

Yea, it was the shop Rohloff test ride bike..2 handlebars .

Whoops, read the first half of your post but skipped the second. Looks like Sheldon also says that this might not be the best for 1" steerers (or carbon of any diameter, not that you have that), so maybe this isn't the way for OP to go.

This may help with your diy
I did the same (convert a threaded to threadless) it's pretty easy but requires just a bit of care.

good luck!

https://www.instructables.com/id/Inst...bike/?ALLSTEPS

The stack of spacers does take on some reinforcing role.

Fortunately there the steerer is Metal.

I extended a too short steerer successfully with a BBB stem Riser..

It is a Quill internal, and is made so height is adjustable dependent
on how many of the included shims are used to be gripped by the stem.

A tall enough steerer, and I expect you can put the whole thing inside the steerer
and not only have a very strong tall fork,

But also not need a Starfangled nut.

They designed a bolt that is threaded inside the hex to tighten the quill-wedge.

I bought the BHP 21 for 1.125" fork, for a 1" fork they make a model BHP20./

NL based BBB has a US Distributor.

This gives me hope. How reliable is that makeshift bolt and washer tool for seating in cups? Could it also be used to take the cups out?

They're very reliable, just do one cup at a time. A press will do nothing to get the cups out, you need a rocket tool for that (don't try to do it with a punch and a hammer, you'll mess things up).

It can't be used to remove the cups. The tool is reliable, just make sure you get some thick fender washers (or a large brass bushing, if you can find one).

Does half of BF have me blocked or something? I swear nobody sees my posts.

Nah, I'm just at work and will load a page 15 minutes or so before responding to a post. Nothing personal.

Great info. Never knew about this rocket tool. I guess I will take it to the bike shop to get the cups removed. Everything else I should be able to do on my own. I also need to buy a couple of headset spanners/wrenches to remove the existing headset. Any idea what size they should be? Could I buy these locally at walmart or home depot?

Seems, Flaming , and questioning Grammar is a certain feedback
that the post went thru, Dan

If you work carefully, and use a light touch, and work side to side, it is quite easy using a hammer and punch. I've done it many times.

I never got the punch and deadblow hammer thing to work (at least that was my hammer of choice). Gave up and took it to the shop and saw how easy they got it out with the rocket, found one for $20 and vowed never again.

With the rocket tool it becomes a one hit , quick job.

I own a pretty long flat bladed screwdriver I used it to tap on the inside edge
of the frame insert cup edge, reaching thru the head tube from the opposite end. tap, tap tap going around the edge.

originally bought the screwdriver to Pry back the wheel cylinders
on my old SAAB
to replace disc brake pads on it. leverage is Good.

In the absence of rocket tool, I had the LBS remove the old cups and install the new ones. To my astonishment (still beating myself for having realized this after the cup installation), the Ritchey Logic 1" headset that I bought from Nashbar, came incomplete. The crown race and the bearings are missing. This is so strange, why would they ship incomplete headset?

So now, I am scrambling to find another copy of the exact same headset in local shops. Its sold out on Nashbar, although I will have them ship me a replacement for free. I am posting some pictures of what I have and may be you guys can help me out with what exactly it is that I am missing here, other than what I mentioned above.

Ritchey logic headset 1" threadless


Both cups installed already


The lower cup (notice, there is no crown race and bearing cartridge.