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-   -   Thread grease. (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/85987-thread-grease.html)

FLyBOy 02-01-05 09:23 AM


Originally Posted by sydney
Yeah I use marine bearing grease, for bearings. But for greasing threads as the poster asked, as well as seatposts and stem quills, whatever ya got works better than nothing.Beyond that, y'all can take grease on bike stuff to whatever level of rocket science suits ya.

Ok, sounds good to me! Thanks to everyone who offered their oppinions on my post, and yes I WON'T use WD-40 around rims, chains, and definetly not around bearings unless I want to degrease them all and slick 'em up!

bostontrevor 02-01-05 11:28 AM


Originally Posted by sydney
I'd suggest reading a better grade of comic book.

Ah Sydney, always a ray of sunshine.

Maybe you ought to take it up with Johns Hopkins University. I'm sure they're very interested in why their results are invalid.

http://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html

sydney 02-01-05 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Ah Sydney, always a ray of sunshine.

Maybe you ought to take it up with Johns Hopkins University. I'm sure they're very interested in why their results are invalid.

http://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html

Ok, fair enough, but fundamental rule is to have the comprehension switch to the on position. Their observation on chain lube had to do with the effenciency of the chain, not wear factors !!

bostontrevor 02-01-05 11:45 AM

Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.

If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.

Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?

Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.

sydney 02-01-05 11:53 AM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.

If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.

Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?

Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.

Where do you get 100%? Some dark, warm, moist place?Why doncha dump the attempt at rocket science,go tool around on an unlubbed chain,especially in adverse conditions and then report back.

nick burns 02-01-05 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.


So just use a non-lubed chain for a while & experiment for yourself. I'd love to hear your conclusions.

nick burns 02-01-05 11:55 AM

Ah, ya beat me by a couple of seconds sydney.

bostontrevor 02-01-05 12:06 PM


Originally Posted by sydney
Where do you get 100%? Some dark, warm, moist place?

Maybe you ought to check your own comprehension switch. I used the 100% figure to demonstrate that efficiency and friction (thus wear) are polar opposites. When a system is 100% efficient, there is no friction and thus no wear. Seems obvious but perhaps you need things a little more spelled out.


Why doncha dump the attempt at rocket science,go tool around on an unlubbed chain,especially in adverse conditions and then report back.
I have, it worked quite nicely actually. It's a nice nickle-plated corrosion resistant chain and I didn't lube it for several months until I decided that I wanted something in there to dampen the noise. This was on my rain bike.

Sydney, I don't know where your superior attitude comes from. You've got one when you think you're right and it persists when you've been proven wrong. Is there anyone here who's your equal?

sydney 02-01-05 12:06 PM

:D

Originally Posted by nick burns
Ah, ya beat me by a couple of seconds sydney.

How can a simple question like putting grease on threads morph into something like this? :rolleyes:

sydney 02-01-05 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Maybe you ought to check your own comprehension switch. I used the 100% figure to demonstrate that efficiency and friction (thus wear) are polar opposites. When a system is 100% efficient, there is no friction and thus no wear. Seems obvious but perhaps you need things a little more spelled out.



Well, a bike chain is not 100% effecient and in real life it doesn't operate in a vacum. Why don't you try and dredge up tech paper that shows a bike chain wears the same in real life with and without proper lube?

bostontrevor 02-01-05 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by sydney
Well, a bike chain is not 100% effecient and in real life it doesn't operate in a vacum.

Ya think?

I have no such paper, I don't know of any study. I believe I employed the phrase "under lab conditions" as well as the word "question". Allow me to try to resolve your confusion:

ques·tion
n.

1. a. An expression of inquiry that invites or calls for a reply.
b. An interrogative sentence, phrase, or gesture.
2. A subject or point open to controversy; an issue.

sydney 02-01-05 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Ya think?

I have no such paper, I don't know of any study. I believe I employed the phrase "under lab conditions" as well as the word "question". Allow me to try to resolve your confusion:

ques·tion
n.

1. a. An expression of inquiry that invites or calls for a reply.
b. An interrogative sentence, phrase, or gesture.
2. A subject or point open to controversy; an issue.

I have no confusion. Go back to your post about the article and effeciency. I'll just go beat my head against the wall while you pedal around in your lab vacum. :rolleyes: Maybe you can dummy into the door to the real world.

bostontrevor 02-01-05 12:37 PM


Originally Posted by sydney
vacum


Originally Posted by sydney
vacum

By the way, it's spelled vacuum.

moxfyre 02-01-05 12:41 PM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Actually a lab test showed that at least under lab conditions lube did nothing for the efficiency of a bicycle chain drive. Pair that with a corrosion resistant chain and you have a real question on your hands, sydney.

According to the book Bicycling Science, lube has a negligible effect on a brand new chain running on large sprockets (>20Teeth). But on slightly worn chains or with a small cog it makes a difference, something like 10%. This is from the chapter on power transmission.

I don't think lube is intended to protect a chain from corrosion so much as from wear due to the friction of the rollers.

In my experience, a clean dry chain is a whole lot better than a dirty lubed chain. But I dunno how long a dry chain would last...

FXjohn 02-01-05 12:48 PM

A small amount of grease on the chain rollers would work just fine, especially white grease or something fairly viscous. You can get a "needle tip" for grease guns.How long does a chain even last, one summer?

nick burns 02-01-05 01:06 PM


Originally Posted by FXjohn
A small amount of grease on the chain rollers would work just fine, especially white grease or something fairly viscous. You can get a "needle tip" for grease guns.How long does a chain even last, one summer?

One summer?!

Keep it cleaned & well lubed w/ drivetrain properly adjusted and you should get several seasons out of it. I've been on the same chain for 3-4 years. No sign of wear on cogs or rings. Shifts great & still nice & quiet.

I'm a roady though. Maybe atb chains take more abuse from grit.

But hey, chains are cheap. Replace 'em every month if you want.

FXjohn 02-01-05 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by nick burns
One summer?!

Keep it cleaned & well lubed w/ drivetrain properly adjusted and you should get several seasons out of it. I've been on the same chain for 3-4 years. No sign of wear on cogs or rings. Shifts great & still nice & quiet.

I'm a roady though. Maybe atb chains take more abuse from grit.

But hey, chains are cheap. Replace 'em every month if you want.

how many miles? I'm usually to 3 thousand by August. I might get two seasons out of a chain depending on how lazy I get.

Justin Time 02-01-05 02:21 PM

buy high heat grease it's red and it won't melt when it's summer and it's real thick so it won't just rub out of the bearing house. oh yeah WD-40 is good for parts to not rust or sqeak alot but not for bearings because they will just finnaly just wear it away and then start grinding down.

CMcMahon 02-01-05 02:27 PM

http://www.penny-arcade.com/images/2002/20021011l.gif

Chris2fur 02-01-05 07:59 PM


Originally Posted by bostontrevor
I have, it worked quite nicely actually. It's a nice nickle-plated corrosion resistant chain and I didn't lube it for several months until I decided that I wanted something in there to dampen the noise.

Help me here... If your chain is really 100% efficient, their can't be any friction between the rollers, pins, side plates, etc. of your chain. Why was noise developing? I expected all of these parts to be in some kind of harmonic suspension... So let's review: Your chain is 100% efficient, therefore no friction. No friction= no noise and no wear. Yet, somehow it got noisey and started bothering you, so you lubed it to stop the noise (but NOT to deal with friction and wear). Sounds kind of silly to me. I think I'll keep lubing my chain to "dampen the noise."

FXjohn 02-01-05 08:27 PM


Originally Posted by Justin Time
buy high heat grease it's red and it won't melt when it's summer and it's real thick so it won't just rub out of the bearing house. oh yeah WD-40 is good for parts to not rust or sqeak alot but not for bearings because they will just finnaly just wear it away and then start grinding down.

Use that Mobil One grease, it's awesome stuff.
Use just a little in the right spots, and will work great, and there will be minimal to clean off with WD when you want to reapply.

bostontrevor 02-01-05 08:42 PM


Originally Posted by Chris2fur
Help me here... If your chain is really 100% efficient, their can't be any friction between the rollers, pins, side plates, etc. of your chain. Why was noise developing? I expected all of these parts to be in some kind of harmonic suspension... So let's review: Your chain is 100% efficient, therefore no friction. No friction= no noise and no wear. Yet, somehow it got noisey and started bothering you, so you lubed it to stop the noise (but NOT to deal with friction and wear). Sounds kind of silly to me. I think I'll keep lubing my chain to "dampen the noise."

Argh. Apparently it was a mistake to use the 100% thing as an example.

It's common in physics to first consider an ideal system and proceed from there to the real world. I wasn't saying a real-world drivetrain is 100% efficient. I was considering the ideal drivetrain which is to first illustrate the state we are approximating with our actual bicycles.

In doing so we see that as efficiency goes up, so too does friction (and thus wear) diminish. That's all.

BostonFixed 02-01-05 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Chris2fur
Help me here... If your chain is really 100% efficient, their can't be any friction between the rollers, pins, side plates, etc. of your chain. Why was noise developing? I expected all of these parts to be in some kind of harmonic suspension... So let's review: Your chain is 100% efficient, therefore no friction. No friction= no noise and no wear. Yet, somehow it got noisey and started bothering you, so you lubed it to stop the noise (but NOT to deal with friction and wear). Sounds kind of silly to me. I think I'll keep lubing my chain to "dampen the noise."

Jesus Christ. Can you read? Do you bother to read the rest of trevor's post, or even the sucessive posts?
I guess the answer to both questions is no, and that you're a dumbass.

Chris2fur 02-01-05 09:55 PM


Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Jesus Christ. Can you read? Do you bother to read the rest of trevor's post, or even the sucessive posts?
I guess the answer to both questions is no, and that you're a dumbass.

First, I suggest you read the rules for posting on this site. Second, learn to articulate your position well enough so that you don't have to rely on profanity and name calling. It strikes me as funny to seriously advocate running a bicycle chain dry and then explaining that it had to be lubed to dampen the noise. Now that I repeat it, it's even funnier! Excuse me while I laugh for a while and you think up some more clever names to call me....

BostonFixed 02-01-05 10:02 PM

Read ALL OF trevor's posts about his dry chain experiment. Then I think things will be clearer, you appear to have missed some of the KEY details of this experiment...


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