Thread grease.
#1
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Thread grease.
A couple of people here have told me that I should grease my new bolt threads before putting them in and tightening them. So if I'm to do that, what easy to find grease or lubrications should I use for greasing my threads? I was also curious if WD-40 would work, but I didn't know if it would be too thin. Thanks!
#3
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
No, no wd-40. Use plain lithium, "white", or synthetic grease. You can generally find it for less than $5 a tube. That's the stuff to use.
#4
Yep, sounds good. Now stop using it on your chain. 
It will tend to accumulate LOTS of grunge and make for a dirty slimey mess that also chews up your drive train and makes shifting sloppy. Get some proper chain lube. Your local bike shop will have a few favorites depending on conditions.

It will tend to accumulate LOTS of grunge and make for a dirty slimey mess that also chews up your drive train and makes shifting sloppy. Get some proper chain lube. Your local bike shop will have a few favorites depending on conditions.
#6
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Yep, sounds good. Now stop using it on your chain. 
It will tend to accumulate LOTS of grunge and make for a dirty slimey mess that also chews up your drive train and makes shifting sloppy. Get some proper chain lube. Your local bike shop will have a few favorites depending on conditions.

It will tend to accumulate LOTS of grunge and make for a dirty slimey mess that also chews up your drive train and makes shifting sloppy. Get some proper chain lube. Your local bike shop will have a few favorites depending on conditions.
#7
The best substance to use is anti-seize compound available at any auto parts store. Basically a grease with copper or other conductive additive that prevents corrosion due to dissimilar metal contact between steel and aluminum or steel and titanium. It should also help with rusting steel fasteners though any ordinary grease should do as well for steel to steel contact.
#8
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From: Pasadena, CA
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Anti sieze compound is the best, grease will work though.
Please stop greasing your chain. Grease is too "sticky" and attracts all kinds of dirt since it is exposed. Oil the chain. There are lots of threads on what to use.
Please stop greasing your chain. Grease is too "sticky" and attracts all kinds of dirt since it is exposed. Oil the chain. There are lots of threads on what to use.
#9
"oil" being a figurative term since you typically don't want to actually use oil.
Yes, stop using grease on your chain. Ask at your local bike shop, they'll recommend some chain lube for you.
Yes, stop using grease on your chain. Ask at your local bike shop, they'll recommend some chain lube for you.
#11
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From: San Jose, CA
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Just use Phil Wood or Finish Line. The only thing that you don't use that on is brake cables and chains; for cables, you need Tri-Flow, and for chains, well, you really don't need anything.
#12
Originally Posted by Beerman
Just use Phil Wood or Finish Line. .... and for chains, well, you really don't need anything.
#14
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Originally Posted by sydney
Geeze,..... grease is grease.Just get a tub of cheap wheel bearing grease from Wally mart, and be happy for the rest of your life.... And since when did chains start needing no lube?...LOL 

#15
Actually a lab test showed that at least under lab conditions lube did nothing for the efficiency of a bicycle chain drive. Pair that with a corrosion resistant chain and you have a real question on your hands, sydney.
#16
I drink your MILKSHAKE

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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Originally Posted by sydney
Geeze,..... grease is grease.Just get a tub of cheap wheel bearing grease from Wally mart, and be happy for the rest of your life.... And since when did chains start needing no lube?...LOL 

#18
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
As for the no-lube chains that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard of apart from greasing it.
#19
I drink your MILKSHAKE

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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Originally Posted by Beerman
When you ride BMX (at least for park and street), the amount of damage that a chain takes (I have to replace a few links a week, on average) negates the usefulness of lubing it up, because it never lasts long enough in the first place. That lube doesn't do much for a chain when you're grinding down an unwaxed concrete ledge at a decent speed.
#20
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Heheheheh... practical application. Suddenly the knowledgable bike mechanics are seeking out BMXers to see if they use grease to make their concrete ledge rides slipperier! Love it!
What hasn't been pointed out is that there are several points on a bike where maybe a touch of Loctite blue or equivalent might be applied. Such as the adjustment screws on V-brakes. The studs that hold the cantilever brake/V-brake calipers to the forks/seat stays. The screws that hold cleats to the soles of bike shoes. Maybe even the drop-out adjustment screw on a rear derailleur. Bolts holding on front and rear racks, if a spring washer is not used. Oh and maybe the threads of bottom bracket cartridges if they make a noise when pedalling uphill or under pressure.
Just in case some read the first couple of posts, and fail to get to the BMX issue. And I do point out this is from my own non-commercial, home bike mechanic point of view, and observation of what bike/equipment manufacturers provide.
What hasn't been pointed out is that there are several points on a bike where maybe a touch of Loctite blue or equivalent might be applied. Such as the adjustment screws on V-brakes. The studs that hold the cantilever brake/V-brake calipers to the forks/seat stays. The screws that hold cleats to the soles of bike shoes. Maybe even the drop-out adjustment screw on a rear derailleur. Bolts holding on front and rear racks, if a spring washer is not used. Oh and maybe the threads of bottom bracket cartridges if they make a noise when pedalling uphill or under pressure.
Just in case some read the first couple of posts, and fail to get to the BMX issue. And I do point out this is from my own non-commercial, home bike mechanic point of view, and observation of what bike/equipment manufacturers provide.
#21
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Don't use WD-40 or anything like it because it is ultimately a degreaser. Lithium grease is ifme, especially for headsets, but try to get some copper slip grease. It has small pieces of copper in it which act as ball bearings, so the threads can be more easily turned even after six months of mud.
#22
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Originally Posted by mepacrin
...but try to get some copper slip grease. It has small pieces of copper in it which act as ball bearings, so the threads can be more easily turned even after six months of mud.
My limited knowledge of electrolysis says: If you want to sink a guy's steel boat coz he's screwed your GF/wife/BF/husband, drop a copper coin in his bilge and let the salt water do the job?
Copper and steel don't go well together, as far as I know, in a salty environment. Grease or not.
Last edited by Rowan; 02-01-05 at 05:20 AM.
#23
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Originally Posted by Rowan
My initial reaction is: Don't you people in the colder parts of North America AND the British Isles have issues with salt on roads in snow and ice conditions?
My limited knowledge of electrolysis says: If you want to sink a guy's steel boat coz he's screwed your GF/wife/BF/husband, drop a copper coin in his bilge and let the salt water do the job?
Copper and steel don't go well together, as far as I know, in a salty environment. Grease or not.
My limited knowledge of electrolysis says: If you want to sink a guy's steel boat coz he's screwed your GF/wife/BF/husband, drop a copper coin in his bilge and let the salt water do the job?
Copper and steel don't go well together, as far as I know, in a salty environment. Grease or not.
For example, Loctite (and many others) makes products such as this:
https://www.jensentools.com/product/g...rent_id=420597
which are EXPLICITLY to be used on steel.
Finish Line's Ti Prep is just an overpriced anti-seize compound which also, by the way, contains copper.
#24
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Actually a lab test showed that at least under lab conditions lube did nothing for the efficiency of a bicycle chain drive. Pair that with a corrosion resistant chain and you have a real question on your hands, sydney.
#25
Originally Posted by seely
I tend to agree with Raiyn (as oft seems to be the case). Marine Bearing Grease, like $3 a tub from Home Depot... SUSPICIOUSLY similar to Phil and Park grease.






