Thread grease.
#26
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sydney
Yeah I use marine bearing grease, for bearings. But for greasing threads as the poster asked, as well as seatposts and stem quills, whatever ya got works better than nothing.Beyond that, y'all can take grease on bike stuff to whatever level of rocket science suits ya.
#27
Originally Posted by sydney
I'd suggest reading a better grade of comic book.
Maybe you ought to take it up with Johns Hopkins University. I'm sure they're very interested in why their results are invalid.
https://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html
#28
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Ah Sydney, always a ray of sunshine.
Maybe you ought to take it up with Johns Hopkins University. I'm sure they're very interested in why their results are invalid.
https://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html
Maybe you ought to take it up with Johns Hopkins University. I'm sure they're very interested in why their results are invalid.
https://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html
#29
Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.
If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.
Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?
Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.
If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.
Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?
Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.
#30
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.
If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.
Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?
Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.
If my efficiency doesn't change with or without lube that means the lube is having no effect on frictional losses which means it has nothing to do with wear.
Now the real answer is take it out of the lab, dump some sand, and dirt, and whatnot in there and see how it changes. Though I suspect that the results may be counterintuitive: dry lubes are designed to shed contaminants. A non-lubed chain will have a very similar performance. The question is how much does the addition of non-stick additives improve the shedding properties of the chain? Is it enough to offset the lube itself?
Wet lube of course is to help protect the chain from oxidation or other chemical reactions and to be durable under harsher conditions.
#31
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Absecon, NJ
Bikes: Puch Luzern, Puch Mistral SLE, Bianchi Pista, Motobecane Grand Touring, Austro-Daimler Ultima, Legnano, Raleigh MountainTour, Cannondale SM600
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Yes, but how does a thing wear if it's 100% efficient? Wear results from the translation of input energy into friction. Efficiency is the measure of how much input energy is translated into useful work. The two are opposite concepts.
So just use a non-lubed chain for a while & experiment for yourself. I'd love to hear your conclusions.
#33
Originally Posted by sydney
Where do you get 100%? Some dark, warm, moist place?
Why doncha dump the attempt at rocket science,go tool around on an unlubbed chain,especially in adverse conditions and then report back.
Sydney, I don't know where your superior attitude comes from. You've got one when you think you're right and it persists when you've been proven wrong. Is there anyone here who's your equal?
#35
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Maybe you ought to check your own comprehension switch. I used the 100% figure to demonstrate that efficiency and friction (thus wear) are polar opposites. When a system is 100% efficient, there is no friction and thus no wear. Seems obvious but perhaps you need things a little more spelled out.
#36
Originally Posted by sydney
Well, a bike chain is not 100% effecient and in real life it doesn't operate in a vacum.
I have no such paper, I don't know of any study. I believe I employed the phrase "under lab conditions" as well as the word "question". Allow me to try to resolve your confusion:
ques·tion
n.
1. a. An expression of inquiry that invites or calls for a reply.
b. An interrogative sentence, phrase, or gesture.
2. A subject or point open to controversy; an issue.
#37
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Ya think?
I have no such paper, I don't know of any study. I believe I employed the phrase "under lab conditions" as well as the word "question". Allow me to try to resolve your confusion:
ques·tion
n.
1. a. An expression of inquiry that invites or calls for a reply.
b. An interrogative sentence, phrase, or gesture.
2. A subject or point open to controversy; an issue.
I have no such paper, I don't know of any study. I believe I employed the phrase "under lab conditions" as well as the word "question". Allow me to try to resolve your confusion:
ques·tion
n.
1. a. An expression of inquiry that invites or calls for a reply.
b. An interrogative sentence, phrase, or gesture.
2. A subject or point open to controversy; an issue.
Maybe you can dummy into the door to the real world.
#39
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,166
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From: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Actually a lab test showed that at least under lab conditions lube did nothing for the efficiency of a bicycle chain drive. Pair that with a corrosion resistant chain and you have a real question on your hands, sydney.
I don't think lube is intended to protect a chain from corrosion so much as from wear due to the friction of the rollers.
In my experience, a clean dry chain is a whole lot better than a dirty lubed chain. But I dunno how long a dry chain would last...
Last edited by moxfyre; 02-01-05 at 12:51 PM.
#40
A small amount of grease on the chain rollers would work just fine, especially white grease or something fairly viscous. You can get a "needle tip" for grease guns.How long does a chain even last, one summer?
#41
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Absecon, NJ
Bikes: Puch Luzern, Puch Mistral SLE, Bianchi Pista, Motobecane Grand Touring, Austro-Daimler Ultima, Legnano, Raleigh MountainTour, Cannondale SM600
Originally Posted by FXjohn
A small amount of grease on the chain rollers would work just fine, especially white grease or something fairly viscous. You can get a "needle tip" for grease guns.How long does a chain even last, one summer?
Keep it cleaned & well lubed w/ drivetrain properly adjusted and you should get several seasons out of it. I've been on the same chain for 3-4 years. No sign of wear on cogs or rings. Shifts great & still nice & quiet.
I'm a roady though. Maybe atb chains take more abuse from grit.
But hey, chains are cheap. Replace 'em every month if you want.
#42
Originally Posted by nick burns
One summer?!
Keep it cleaned & well lubed w/ drivetrain properly adjusted and you should get several seasons out of it. I've been on the same chain for 3-4 years. No sign of wear on cogs or rings. Shifts great & still nice & quiet.
I'm a roady though. Maybe atb chains take more abuse from grit.
But hey, chains are cheap. Replace 'em every month if you want.
Keep it cleaned & well lubed w/ drivetrain properly adjusted and you should get several seasons out of it. I've been on the same chain for 3-4 years. No sign of wear on cogs or rings. Shifts great & still nice & quiet.
I'm a roady though. Maybe atb chains take more abuse from grit.
But hey, chains are cheap. Replace 'em every month if you want.
#43
My other Bike is a Custom
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: North Texas
Bikes: Planet Earth Slam Frame
buy high heat grease it's red and it won't melt when it's summer and it's real thick so it won't just rub out of the bearing house. oh yeah WD-40 is good for parts to not rust or sqeak alot but not for bearings because they will just finnaly just wear it away and then start grinding down.
#45
Bikes on brain...
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: XC Hardtail w/100mm fork, disc brakes, custom wheels.
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
I have, it worked quite nicely actually. It's a nice nickle-plated corrosion resistant chain and I didn't lube it for several months until I decided that I wanted something in there to dampen the noise.
#46
Originally Posted by Justin Time
buy high heat grease it's red and it won't melt when it's summer and it's real thick so it won't just rub out of the bearing house. oh yeah WD-40 is good for parts to not rust or sqeak alot but not for bearings because they will just finnaly just wear it away and then start grinding down.
Use just a little in the right spots, and will work great, and there will be minimal to clean off with WD when you want to reapply.
#47
Originally Posted by Chris2fur
Help me here... If your chain is really 100% efficient, their can't be any friction between the rollers, pins, side plates, etc. of your chain. Why was noise developing? I expected all of these parts to be in some kind of harmonic suspension... So let's review: Your chain is 100% efficient, therefore no friction. No friction= no noise and no wear. Yet, somehow it got noisey and started bothering you, so you lubed it to stop the noise (but NOT to deal with friction and wear). Sounds kind of silly to me. I think I'll keep lubing my chain to "dampen the noise."
It's common in physics to first consider an ideal system and proceed from there to the real world. I wasn't saying a real-world drivetrain is 100% efficient. I was considering the ideal drivetrain which is to first illustrate the state we are approximating with our actual bicycles.
In doing so we see that as efficiency goes up, so too does friction (and thus wear) diminish. That's all.
#48
Banned.
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Originally Posted by Chris2fur
Help me here... If your chain is really 100% efficient, their can't be any friction between the rollers, pins, side plates, etc. of your chain. Why was noise developing? I expected all of these parts to be in some kind of harmonic suspension... So let's review: Your chain is 100% efficient, therefore no friction. No friction= no noise and no wear. Yet, somehow it got noisey and started bothering you, so you lubed it to stop the noise (but NOT to deal with friction and wear). Sounds kind of silly to me. I think I'll keep lubing my chain to "dampen the noise."
I guess the answer to both questions is no, and that you're a dumbass.
#49
Bikes on brain...
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: XC Hardtail w/100mm fork, disc brakes, custom wheels.
Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Jesus Christ. Can you read? Do you bother to read the rest of trevor's post, or even the sucessive posts?
I guess the answer to both questions is no, and that you're a dumbass.
I guess the answer to both questions is no, and that you're a dumbass.






