So I am taking the advise on the best forums ever and taking my Joshua apart & lube every part after he threw me off in my ride twice today (I'll blame it on the wind).



Is this a safe lube to spray everything with? I asked for a synthetic



Also hoping to post at least 50 times so I can shout out for help if I can't get him back together... You know entropy is natural, but coming back together is 50% pain... Possibly 500% pain as I nurse my booboos.

If I need something else, can you leave me a pic I can grab on my phone for tomorrow's early shopping trip & where to find (ie. autozone, lowes/homedepot, walmart...)

Thanks bunches in advance for the help with my first big project.

Good Lube ?....Yes

I only use that for cables, brake and derailer pivots.

I used to use it on chains also when I lived someplace where every ride didn't involve rain.

I use automotive bearing grease in my hubs, headset, bottom bracket and on all threaded items.

Sweet! I hate gumming things up before I start... Thanks Bunches 10 Wheelz =)

Even sweeter! Have that on stock too. Thanks LesterO

Without naming brands (I have an obvious bias) there are three classes of lubes you need for a bike.

1- Ball bearings (hubs, BB, headset and pedals) take grease
2- Chains take a chain lube (no debate, read forums, search google for reviews, or roll dice until you find one you like)
3- all the small pivots on brakes, derailleurs and the like, take a very light oil such as tri-flow.

Freehubs, where serviceable, take a film of light grease, heavy oil. Cables likewise a light film of grease or oil.

As you see, no one product can cover the range of needs which cover a broad spectrum.

As ever, sound advice from FBinNY.

We should however immediately start endless largely duplicate threads about what sort of dice to use when choosing chain lube. Everyone should shout out what they do in the hope that somehow this validates their choice.

For me it's white injection molded polymethyl methacrylate with rounded edges. No choice. They roll quieter and don't attract dirt.

I use:

Automotive bearing grease (Mobil 1 but brand doesn't much matter) for headset, bottom bracket, hubs. Also on threads and seatpost/stem as anti-seize.

Chain-L for chain. Here brand does matter, especially if you ride in tough conditions (rain, dirt).

Tri-Flow for everything else. I am not sure how much brand matters, perhaps any light oil would do.

+1 on the Mobil 1 GREASE !!! I turned my LBS on to this stuff, and they use it for everything GREASE related now. My BB has never been so quiet and smooth!

As important as lube is, the cleaning off of the old grime is equally a need. Otherwise you end up with a polishing compound (lube and grit slurry). Andy.

I only use the NON-aerosol tri-flow, very sparingly, as chain and cable lube, and only then after really cleaning the chain (I buy WD40 by the gallon can, and use it as a cleaning solvent, hah!). I'm thinking of switching to a chain wax type product like motorcyclists use (goes on as a liquid, but dries and leaves a thin layer of waxy grease)

for wheel bearings, headsets, etc, I use green marine waterproof ball bearing grease. also on the threads of almost anything I'm reassembling.

Not trying to jack your thread but what is everyones' feelings on these bad boys?!

the motorcycle cleaners/degreasers tend to be awfully aggressive for bicycles, and the MC chain lubes I've used, like PJ-1 are just too thick and gunky for bicycle chains. I tried PJ1 on my bike chains, as I had some left over from when I had chain driven motorcycle for a few months (was a loaner, my motor bike is a shaft drive BMW R1100RS)

I've not used those specific products you show, however.

I use one of those clip-on roller brush + solvent caddy things, mine is an ancient italian brand I can't remember right now (Stella?), and bulk WD40 to clean my chain, then I blow dry it with my compressor to blow out the excess solvent, and use a LITTLE bit of Triflow from a dropper bottle, not aerosol can, to lube the chain.

BUT, I'm not real happy about triflow and would like to find something else. It just attracts too much dirt and gets gritty too fast. I used to use a spray on bicycle chain wax, and I think I'd like to find something like that again. The one I used 25 years ago sprayed on as a light oily liquid, but evaporated, leaving a thin layer of a waxy grease on the chain, which lasted weeks of all weather riding, and didn't get dirty.

Thank you All! Been working on the bike for 2 days now.

Lemon Pledge worked for a nice degreaser on the frame applying from a soft cloth...
very careful not to expose to other parts of my bike

Triflow rocked for the breaks - didn't replace the cables cause they are not the least bit frayed after 12y

Awesome to take the shimano derailleur apart, triflow & put back together ~ Baby butt smooth spin <3

Couldn't get the pedals off no matter how hard I tried. May need to use the power tool with an L fit end.

Repacked the rear axel with new Mobil 1 grease (red in color), but I think I put it back together wrong cause the back tire barely moves #.#

=) Love my chain breaker - pop on, clean, pop off! Sorry no Chain-L available in LV, so Tri-flowed

Overall, a good job for a first dismantle, clean & reconnect.
Hope I get the rear tire figured out so I can ride today

Thanks again everyone!

bike shop will help.. at least get them loose enough, to use hand tools next time.

re the pedals, the left pedal has BACKWARDS THREADS!!!!

a good penetrating oil ("Kroil" is the best by far! but not that easy to find. acetone and ATF mixed 50-50 actually works really well too, but acetone fumes are hazardous) will aid in getting them off, apply a couple drops to both sides of the pedal-crank interface..

re: your rear axle... to adjust those properly, you usually need to take the sprocket cluster off first, and this requires special tools (if its a cassette on a freehub, you need a 'chain whip' and a shimano cassette tool, if its a freehub (old school), you need the suitable freehub tool for whatever freehub it is). then, you need a pair of 'cone wrenches' which are a special extra thin wrench, to fit on the cones, plus a regular wrench to tighten the lock nut. it takes a little practice to get the bearings set just right, there should be zero play and zero binding. when you tighten the lock nuts, it tends to tighten the bearing a bit, so its an incremental process, loosen locknut, tighten or untighten the cone a hair, tighten locknut, check. with practice, you can do it in a minute.

I'm surprised to hear of seized pedals in Nevada. Either they're just on tight, maybe you're turning the wrong way. To remove either pedal turn the top toward the back of the bike. It can be hard because the cranks want to turn, but the way to get best leverage is to arrange the pedal wrench back over the arm, which will reduce the crank turning tendency. Just in case there's some corrosion, spray the area with PB blaster or Kroil, and let it soak in. You can even ride the bike a day or two after spraying then give it another shot.

As for the wheel, it's possisble you overtightened the hub bearings, so don't ride until that's corrected. If a simple adjustment doesn't solve it take it apart, check the work and try again. Check a tutorial to make sure all the parts are in the right sequence, and nothing that shouldn't is rubbing.

Sorry about the no Chain-L in LV. It's not that I haven't tried, but so far no luck. If you email me (through the site) your name and address and the name of your favorite dealer, I'll send a sample for both of you.

For bearings, I found some of this at Home Depot and I love it. It's a little less viscous than automotive grease, for low speed applications.

When I used to ride sportbikes(Yamaha FZR600's, Honda VFR700/800's, etc.) I never bothered
using any cleaner on the chain. I just wiped it with a rag before applying gear oil - which at the
time was what the manufacturers were recommending in their manuals. So I just carried over the
same habit with my bicycle. Wipe with a rag then a few drops of gear oil followed by more wipes
of the rag. I "borrow" the gear oil from my job Seems to work for me with my riding in winter
slop and rain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7jfcWEkSrI

WD40 for cleaning only, Breakfree CLP or Marvel Mystery Oil for just about everything (guns too), Blue Marine grease cause it sticks and stays where you put it, Permatex anti-size compound for those parts you don't want to stick, and of course PB Blaster the great unsticker...

That's just about it - I have a shelf of lubes but these are the ones I use...