knowing the difference between headsets
 

my friend is in the market for a new headset, and has expressed interest in this cane creek: http://www.jensonusa.com/Headsets/Ca...k-IS-3-Headset
is this a proper headset for MTB? its sealed bearing, but doesnt seem like its built to take on the abuse of trails.
is there road headsets and mtb headsets? or are they all good for any bike?

Is this "friend" for some reason unable to speak for himself?

Anyway, this is an integrated headset. I don't know how common these are on mtn bikes today, but if it's an older bike, odds are it needs a pressed in headset. Other than that, there wouldn't be any difference between an integrated headset for road or mtb, since all they really are is a bearing, plus a cover.

computer wise, yes he is unable or im sure hed look it up himself if he knew how lol
he rides a 97 backwoods, so guess yes it would work.
yould figure after almost 200 posts i wouldnt be trying to cover up questions by saying hey my friend want this or asked this unless it was legitmatley a question asked by them lol

If you read my post, you'd have noticed that I said this was an integrated headset, and I doubt it would work on a mtn frame. Now that you've said you have a 97 Backwoods, it's confirmed.

This headset will not work for this bicycle

You need to look for a press-in threadless headset like the one pictured here, either cartridge or loose bearing.

probably something like this would be appropriate.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=101


if he's going to pound on this bike, this series is a little more rugged
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...9&category=101

http://www.universalcycles.com/image...dium/39519.jpg

i figured he'd need something like that. i didnt know about headsets too much so, now i do a little more.

Since this bike is from 1997, there is still a chance it is something other than 1 1/8" threadless. Before you buy a headset, MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE RIGHT ONE. You need to know whether it is 1" or 1 1/8". You also need to know whether it is threaded or threadless. See this: http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

I would not worry about breaking a headset, unless you find some stupid lightweight piece. You will break your frame/fork/front wheel before you break a headset.

the 10 has polymer races :-/

FSA's "Pig" and "Pig DH" headsets are advertised for rugged mtb use and, base on their weight, should certainly be sturdy enough. However, as mentioned above, you need to determine the type and size of the headset before buying anything. At this point a trip to your (or your friend's) LBS is definitely called for to be certain what will fit. As FBinNY stated, the model you originally linked to is absolutely the wrong one.

I know its 1 1/8". he liked the pig, I guess he's had one before but the problem was he wanted sealed bearing.
Is a cartridge bearing the same as caged bearings? Or is that sealed bearing?

Cartridge bearings are usually sealed and the Pig DH has sealed cartridge bearings both top and bottom. "Caged" bearings are just loose balls in a retainer and are not the same as cartridge bearings and are not sealed. The regular Pig does have these so your friend wants the Pig DH. Also FSA Orbit X and Orbit XLII headsets have sealed cartridge bearings and are a bit lighter.

Seals can be found on any bearing design. Cartridge bearings mean that the inner, outer races and balls are pre assembled and when replaced will be remover/installed as one unit. The classic cup and cone design usually allow for the seperation of inner, outer and balls from each other during the servicing. Cartridge bearings can be radial contact designs (where the balls ride in the top/bottom of the races) which don't handle side loads well, or angular contact where the balls touch the races much like the classic cup and cone design does. These handle side loads better but usually require some form of preload adjustment. Again any of these could have seals or shielding.

Radial contact cartridge bearings with seals are common these days in hubs and BBs. Easy to design for and not very expensive. Angular contact sealed cartridge bearings are usually what you'll find in head sets.

The bike I worked on yesterday had angular cartridge sealed in the headset, with an additional seal independent of the cartridge. It had cup and cone hub bearings with both piston ring seals and contact "rubber" ones. It had radial contact with seals in the BB with no extra seals. Oh and the pulley wheels were simple sleeve bearings but with their end caps they could be called shielded bearings too.

Some of the factors that make a bearing work well are- the size of the balls (load is geometricly related to diameter), number of balls (load capicity is linear), materials used, alignment of the elements, ability to service the bearings, lubercant, preloading or slop during use. There are more but that's the quick list. As you look at bike bearings if you look past the marketing you'll find that the choices made are not always for the service life of the bearing. Andy.

Threaded or threadless? This is very important as the two are not at all the same.

fit
 

http://www.canecreek.com/headset-finder

http://www.canecreek.com/tech-center/headsets/shis

Blind guess follows, since information from OP is unclear..

There is a Chris King headset the frame insert cups are Steel: http://chrisking.com/headsets/hds_steelset.. made to beat up, on a mountain bike.

integraded headsets are cartridge bearings , the frame maker machined the frame for a particular headset bearing.

Trashed one already?, get several at the same time, to tide you over as you beat each of them up in sequence..






Knowing differences means acquiring dimensions by Measuring them , and comparing the measurements...

Bike Pedia says the OEM was 1 1/8 threadless Tioga..http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...e#.UQncJvLxmjY

this thread is frustrating. There's a lot to headset selection, especially if stack height is a concern; if this guy is running more than one spacer, he'll prolly be ok. (All these tapered steerers and new "standards" are really starting to bum me out.)

The quick/easy/simple answer is, as mentioned already: Get a Cane Creek 40, in the traditional style pictured up-thread.

Pox on integrated. thankfully more common now are semi-integrated
f

The FSA Pig DH Pro has an upper sealed contact bearing and a lower sealed cartridge bearing..http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/141...FYp_Qgod9T8AVQ

Yeak, I know. I have one of these in my spare parts box. The upper bearing is a "cartridge" (by my definition) in that it is one piece with both races and the bearing balls as an integral single part. The internal geometry of the two bearing sets may differ but they are both replacable as a unit, not as loose balls.

I know you know :rolleyes: just passing on a link to the OP..

Yo , K ! , this is why a web talk without seeing anything first hand is a waste of time .

Sakatoon certainly has Bike shop.