Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

spead 'em in the front!

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

spead 'em in the front!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-01-13 | 06:59 AM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
spead 'em in the front!

Due to the scarcity of 90mm front hubs how much of a issue would it be to "spread the forks 10mm to accomodate much more readily available 100mm hubs???
ebgbz is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:15 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Likes: 4
Do it really slow and put something in the middle of the fork blades to it spreads from the middle down (a belt or something) and not from the crown, you really dont want the fork blades to crack up in the sockets area.
ultraman6970 is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:17 AM
  #3  
Kimmo's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,563
Likes: 736
From: Melbourne, Oz

Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231

Depends on the fork. Prolly not an issue.

Although I'd be inclined to just jam the wheel in every time rather than cold-set the fork, because it's hard to check it for alignment.
Kimmo is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:17 AM
  #4  
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
Likes: 12
From: Syracuse, NY

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Moving fork blades is much more difficult than adjusting rear stays. The blades are very stiff, and you need to remove the fork from the fram and secure the fork column without damaging it in order to move them evenly. Also, in my opinion it's not advisable to spread fork blades without dropout alignment afterward due to the greater stress from the blades and the smaller diameter of the front axle. Others may think (or know) that it's not that big a deal, but I believe it's best to remove the fork and take it to a shop for proper resetting.

I would absolutely NOT attempt to bend the blades "from the middle down" - that sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Again, anyone who is experienced with frame alignment is welcome to chime in.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 02-01-13 at 07:23 AM.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:37 AM
  #5  
Homebrew01's Avatar
Super Moderator
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,980
Likes: 1,157
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

What type of fork is this ? Could you replace it with a 100mm fork, or is it something special and unique ?
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:41 AM
  #6  
rdtompki's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 3
From: Hollister, CA

Bikes: Volagi, daVinci Joint Venture

I don't have any experience, only the thought that a front fork failure can be catastrophic. I'd be surprised if any shop would do it.
rdtompki is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 07:48 AM
  #7  
dbg's Avatar
dbg
Si Senior
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 11
From: Naperville, Illinois

Bikes: Too Numerous (not)

Originally Posted by rdtompki
I don't have any experience, only the thought that a front fork failure can be catastrophic. I'd be surprised if any shop would do it.
Ditto +1. I've done it (grab it like superman unbending a steel bar and pull) for slight spreading (4 or 5mm) just to allow an easier squeeze, but forks are dangerous things to compromise. Then next time you're in tuck going down a steep hill at 40mph+, you'll be very worried about front end integrity.
dbg is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 08:14 AM
  #8  
Rides Majestic
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 7
From: Westfield, MA

Bikes: 1983 Univega Gran Turismo, 1970 Schwinn Super Sport, 2001 Univega Modo Vincere, Self-Built Nashbar Touring, 1974 Peugeot U08, 1974 Atala Grand Prix, 1986 Ross Mt. Hood, 80's Maruishi MT-18

how about modifying a 100mm hub axle? you could cut the axle and change the spacers to make the OLD 90mm. that would be assuming that the hub/axle you have has the appropriate amount of spacers to allow it. some hubs are wider from flange to flange and use no spacers, those type would probably not work.

for all of the hassle involved it might just be easier to get a new fork. based on the 90mm spacing i'm going to assume it's for a 27" wheel and it's nothing special. this may fit the bill, it's spaced for a 100mm hub, and it's cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thread.../dp/B0014C639K.
amazon doesn't have it, but your LBS can probably get on through QBP or something.
likebike23 is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 09:44 AM
  #9  
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
Likes: 12
From: Syracuse, NY

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

An inexpensive chrome replacement fork may be a good idea - realignment of your current one may cost as much. I would have slight concern about moving each blade 5 mm out but I think it's doable. The Amazon fork seems to be unavailable and we don't know if the OP needs a 27" or 700C fork, and headset seat compatibility would be another concern.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Reply
Old 02-01-13 | 12:19 PM
  #10  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

Or modifying a 74mm wide folding bike hub.

thing abour the job you describe is the fork can be bent in several planes and you can mess up steering,
without the accurate measurement referance to keep it alligned..
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 02-04-13 | 04:06 PM
  #11  
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by dbg
Ditto +1. I've done it (grab it like superman unbending a steel bar and pull) for slight spreading (4 or 5mm) just to allow an easier squeeze, but forks are dangerous things to compromise. Then next time you're in tuck going down a steep hill at 40mph+, you'll be very worried about front end integrity.
No doubt that a compromised fork would be catastrophic. I have first hand experience,. Many, many years ago I road a bike down concrete steps at Pensacola Naval Air Station, not once but three times. It failed on downstep run #3 and I did a face plant on the sidewalk. I will be replacing the fork with this:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
fork a.jpg (99.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg
fork b.jpg (98.1 KB, 6 views)
ebgbz is offline  
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Binky
Bicycle Mechanics
16
04-12-20 07:46 PM
Chris Chicago
Bicycle Mechanics
6
12-11-12 09:42 PM
ClemY
Framebuilders
3
04-23-11 05:44 PM
law4jba
Folding Bikes
3
03-08-10 09:27 AM
chico1st
Bicycle Mechanics
0
02-07-10 01:27 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.