Schwinn Speedometer Question.
02-08-13 | 09:28 AM
#1
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From: San Antonio, TX
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Schwinn Speedometer Question.
I removed the front rim to clean the gunk surrounding the hub and after I was done putting it all back together I test rode and the speedometer wasn't working. I'm quite sure I put it back exactly as I it was from the start, is there at certain position it has to be in? Or is it just broken now?
Thanks!
Daniel.
Thanks!
Daniel.
02-08-13 | 10:50 AM
#3
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From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
"I'm quite sure I put it back exactly as I it was from the start"
I'm pretty sure that you didn't. I believe that the plate you have on the outside of the fork needs to be on the inside, next to the wheel. There should be a pin which engages the wheel between the spokes which rotates along with the wheel and drives the speedometer via the cable. Hopefully you have not bent or sheared off the pin the way you have it mounted. Remove the wheel, make sure the pin is straight and put the plate onto the axle, making sure the pin goes between two spokes, then mount the assembly onto the fork, with the plate between the fork and the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts securely. If the speedometer reads backward you need to put the plate on the opposite (right) side of the wheel.
I'm pretty sure that you didn't. I believe that the plate you have on the outside of the fork needs to be on the inside, next to the wheel. There should be a pin which engages the wheel between the spokes which rotates along with the wheel and drives the speedometer via the cable. Hopefully you have not bent or sheared off the pin the way you have it mounted. Remove the wheel, make sure the pin is straight and put the plate onto the axle, making sure the pin goes between two spokes, then mount the assembly onto the fork, with the plate between the fork and the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts securely. If the speedometer reads backward you need to put the plate on the opposite (right) side of the wheel.
02-08-13 | 11:01 AM
#4
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
+100.
The speedometer has to be inside the fork, with the driving tab engaged in the spokes so the wheel will turn it. It cannot be outside the fork since than the driving tab will be stopped in half a turn when it hits the fork blade.
BTW- The first question would have been is whether it worked before, If so, we know the unit was OK. But now you need to take it off and confirm that the driving tab didn't break off because you mounted it wrong.
The speedometer has to be inside the fork, with the driving tab engaged in the spokes so the wheel will turn it. It cannot be outside the fork since than the driving tab will be stopped in half a turn when it hits the fork blade.
BTW- The first question would have been is whether it worked before, If so, we know the unit was OK. But now you need to take it off and confirm that the driving tab didn't break off because you mounted it wrong.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-08-13 | 11:29 AM
#5
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
If that speedometer is broken from the improper installation and if you aren't absolutely wedded to that type, be aware that a modern electronic cyclometer can be had for $20 or less. It will be far more accurate (if calibrated properly), give a ton of other useful information, be a lot lighter and produce much less drag.
02-08-13 | 11:22 PM
#7
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From: Stettler, Alberta
Bikes: Trek 800, Free Spirit Town and Country, 80's Norco Nomad
If that speedometer is broken from the improper installation and if you aren't absolutely wedded to that type, be aware that a modern electronic cyclometer can be had for $20 or less. It will be far more accurate (if calibrated properly), give a ton of other useful information, be a lot lighter and produce much less drag.
https://compare.ebay.com/like/2809735...cbt=y&bigimg=y
Have 2 similar...you can't adjust them so I know they are off a bit...but how perfect do you need to get on a recreational bike? They look cool anyway.
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