I bought a Pletscher kickstand for my new Civia Bryant. Unfortunately, the hex head bolt that comes with the kickstand won't fit in the recessed mounting hole on the kickstand mounting plate on the Bryant. The head of the bolt is too large.

It looks like I'll need an Allen head (metric) bolt. My local hardware store doesn't sell any bolt anywhere large enough, so I will have to search one out. To do that, it will be useful to know the bolt specifications.

The head of the bolt is stamped "M 8.8 CS". Does anyone know what that is telling me about the bolt?

Thanks,

Mike

thats describing the metal grade. 8.8 is pretty much 'standard'. 10.8 and 12.8 are different levels of 'hardened' (such as you might use for an engine's head bolts).

I had to get a bolt for mine also, don't know if you have a Menards (home improvement store) where you live or not. The bolt I got is called a 'socket head cap screw' 3/8 by whatever length you need. It's a specialty screw that you would probably have to ask for. Take the other one with you to make sure the threads and length are correct.

I also needed a different hex socket cap screw for a kickstand. My local True Value store had the size I needed in their fairly extensive selection, in stainless. They have both SAE and metric sizes. Some auto parts stores have a good selection as well.

Pletscher and Esge sold these kickstands in two versions. With a top plate, and supplied with a hex bolt like yours, and with a braze-on plate with a socket cap screw threaded to the head.

Either way you need a 10mm cap screw threaded to the head. I believe it's a standard M10x1.5, but can't say so with any assurance. I suggest that you bring your bolt to a hardware store and compare the thread pitch. But what is key is that the screw must be threaded up to the head (or very close) since the plate is thin. If you cannot find such a bolt you'll need to add some washers under the head to take up the length of the unthreaded shank.

QBP , Imports Civia and Esge/Pletscher KS , couldnt the Dealer find the bolt?

I got a new Plietcher 'Zoom' foot bolts to shaft, so length is more than a saw cut, it can be lengthened, too.

QBP imports those KS.. cap screw was included..


8.8 is a step up over mild steel...

I am not sure about the clearance you have available in your installation, but I needed a ball-end hex driver to get to mine. Something to keep in mind while you are shopping.

You are correct. I went to the LBS where I bought the kickstand, and they had a tool to measuer the thread pitch, and it was 1.5. They didn't have the bolt I need, but now I can check around.

So I now know that I am looknig for an M10X1.5 probaly 16mm or 20mm in length.

Anyone have a clue as to what "FT" means in the follownig spec (from someplace on the web):

"M10X16 Socket Head Cap Screw FT Stainless Steel A2 DIN912" - I would assume "FT" would mean "fine thread", but this spec is already listed under "M10X1.5".

Thanks,

Mike

a standard thread M10 is 1.5. m10 fine is 1.25mm pitch.

Correct and there is also an M10x1.0 even finer pitch used for rear derailleur hanger threads but also available in standard metric bolt configurations.

I imagine "FT" means "Full Thread", that is, threaded to the head, or the like.

The same thought I occurred to me. I will find out - I ordered a couple of bolts from

https://www.mrmetric.com

Thanks to all.

Solved it...? I think I have it's most probably a;

- 2" x 3/8" 16tpi BSW Whitworth (14mm) Hex Bolt BZP Full Thread

close enough to M10 x 1.5 to Tap it out... as that's a bit of a hard find, you'll get one in a big multi pack of bolts maybe.

I'll post an article up here once I've done my 10 newbie posts, until then...

BMX Handlebar Stems are a weird one too being M7 with a Slim 6mm Allen Cap Head and often integrated washer and unique lengths.
Just sayin' as I've also got some 10.5mm x 26tpi axle nuts, along with other strange bits.

I collect them...

Whitworth???
Might fit somewhere on your Vincent Black Shadow!
Steve

Years later I find this thread, I have the same stand and bike but did the lazy thing and used the top mounting bracket that comes with the stand. Only took me 7 years but I'm going to order up one of these bolts to use on the frame. Thanks! May as well finally cut the stand to the right height as well lol. Talk about lazy.

RayB- Now that's persistence! Good job.

What I find is lacking with K stand mounting in nearly every shop I've worked in is the after initial mounting and first few swings/uses is the retightening of the mounting bolt. k stands see a lot of twisting force when deployed then retracted. A lot of loosening forces. Even with a mounting plate (typically welded/brazed under the chain stays) the k stand body tends to have some slop in it's mount/fit and still allows loosening to happen if not revisited soon after the initial mounting.

For fun and giggles here's what I did to locate and trap a k stand under my self made 3 speed frame. The studs on the stand's top sides are finishing nails. The top sides have had slight notches filed in, to best position the stand's rotational alignment (with the stay) and to snug the stand in place with no chance of a slight twisting when the stand is swung up. Andy

Given the 1 post count, this is probably a troll, but in case others read this, you almost certainly do NOT have a Whitworth thread on your bike or bike part unless you have a Raleigh (or other Brit bike) from the 70s. Given the Brit's reputation for mechanical peculiarity, Whitworth MIGHT appear* on some parts offered today, but I doubt very many.

In any case, retapping threads because you can't find the right size fastener is poor practice: you weaken the fastened joint considerably. If anyone is considering this, consult your LBS or post a question here.

*The Brits have some justification for this pride in British engineering. For example the Rolls Royce Merlin 66 engine. Plus, Sir Joseph's (Joseph Whitworth) thread spec did deliver fasteners that are probably superior to most standard flat root and crest UN bolts. And it was from the mid-1800s!

You forgot the Norton 850 Commando.

For any others similar to the OP that has a Bryant with a Pletsher stand. The discussed bolt works a treat. M10 X 1.5 @ 2cm length. Love Amazon for not having to run around to find this. But, now I have 9 more spare bolts.

Where is Boz anyway? What kind of place doesn't make it's own proprietary threads these days?


Troll, almost a compliment, thanks! Post numero 2, it's the kind of things a man with a big box of bike stands and a few odd bolts might find out, but it's chance that this time I had a thread gauge too, if any of the previous answers applied and included anything I've added, but they didn't so there it is for your consideration, first post in 5 years on this thread and you've bitten...
Considering though I'm referencing parts built since Sir Jo Whit proved his worth to RR that old Wizards creation, Merlin is a bit redundant too, but we didn't destroy them all so you might still find some out there...

Green Lock-tite FTW! Andrew R Stewart, I've held in crank bolts with no thread before with that stuff and it lasted, if you want to tap it and don't have the tools and happen to think you could file out the hole and stick the bolt in with a bit of that stuff it'll work once it dries! and the trick to that is just excluding enough air with a bead of grease where required... oops!

Now that's what I'd call trolling! Did I actually say this was a current market problem... It's a box of stuff problem, there's a surprising number of fish in the sea, I'm off Trolling, I'm english you see...

Don't you guys wish that the new format still showed the date of the OP (original post) **********??? when viewing the thread titles like it did in the previous format?

If the OP hasn't solve his issue in five years, They probably don't care to or this isn't a priority for them.

Welcome to the forums.

I sneer at those that revive old threads. But how 'bout a pint sometime?

Ditto for you @RayB