what is difference between tubeless and tubular tire?
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what is difference between tubeless and tubular tire?
pro and cons between this two tire
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Tubed tires are average at flat resistance, but easy to repair when the inevitable flat happens.
Tubeless is excellent at flat resistance, but a royal PITA to repair when the inevitable flat happens.
Weight is getting closer to negligible, ride is a subjective.
Tubeless is excellent at flat resistance, but a royal PITA to repair when the inevitable flat happens.
Weight is getting closer to negligible, ride is a subjective.
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Tubeless tyres are conventional tyres, but with the actual tyre casing holding the air pressure in, rather than using an inner tube.
Tubular tyres have no beads, have the inner tube sewn inside the casing, and glue onto rims designed to take them rather than being held on by the rim sidewalls.
Tubular tyres have no beads, have the inner tube sewn inside the casing, and glue onto rims designed to take them rather than being held on by the rim sidewalls.
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Same as the reply above.
A TUBELESS tire contains no tube. The bead and rim are designed, usually in conjunction with a sealant - to be good enough to hold the air in the assembly.
A TUBULAR tire - is a road bicycle tire that is essentially a tube with a tread sewn into it. You use a glue to hold the tubular tire onto the rim. The rim is NOT a standard rim, with sides. It is more of a lightly cupped rim to hold the glued on tire.
Did you actually mean tubular tire then? Or tubed.
Tubeless has the pros of being very light, the ability to run very low pressures, and you cannot really "pinch" flat them.
Tubeless cons - if you puncture the tire, you are screwed. Can be messy, if you use a sealant, and if a sealant is needed, it makes a mid-ride change very difficult. (Usually carry a backup tube just in case). Too low of a pressure can cause air to "burp" out of the tire.
Tubed tires are proven, easy to change the tube, but you cannot run as low of a pressure, so traction is worse, and it is very easy to pinch flat a tubed tire.
A TUBELESS tire contains no tube. The bead and rim are designed, usually in conjunction with a sealant - to be good enough to hold the air in the assembly.
A TUBULAR tire - is a road bicycle tire that is essentially a tube with a tread sewn into it. You use a glue to hold the tubular tire onto the rim. The rim is NOT a standard rim, with sides. It is more of a lightly cupped rim to hold the glued on tire.
Did you actually mean tubular tire then? Or tubed.
Tubeless has the pros of being very light, the ability to run very low pressures, and you cannot really "pinch" flat them.
Tubeless cons - if you puncture the tire, you are screwed. Can be messy, if you use a sealant, and if a sealant is needed, it makes a mid-ride change very difficult. (Usually carry a backup tube just in case). Too low of a pressure can cause air to "burp" out of the tire.
Tubed tires are proven, easy to change the tube, but you cannot run as low of a pressure, so traction is worse, and it is very easy to pinch flat a tubed tire.
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You are confusing the terms, tubeless just means a standard clincher (held in place by a bead and hook on the rim) tire that doesn't require a tube. Tubular are as the post above mine, the tire has a tube sewn up inside of it and is held in place by glue on the rim.
The right questions would be either: What is the difference between tubular and clincher tires? Or what is the difference between tubeless and tubed tires?
The right questions would be either: What is the difference between tubular and clincher tires? Or what is the difference between tubeless and tubed tires?
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Tubeless bicycle tires are very much like almost all automobile tires. The tire bead seals against the bead of the rim forming an airtight interface and the tire is the only air chamber. They require a special rim with no spoke holes and a specific bead shape. Some more conventional rims can be used with a rim tape that seals the spoke holes.
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Here's a link to an explanation about tubular tires, aka sewups. If you do a better search you'll find decent pictures showing both tubular and conventional (clincher, aka wired-in) tires and rims.
The advantage of tubulars is that they are a closed module, and don't depend on rim flanges to stay on against pressure. That means you can use lighter rims, and brake track wear is less likely to lead to catastrophic failure. There are other advantages, and also the drawbacks of higher cost, more difficult flat repair (you have to sew) and the reliance on a good glue job to keep them on.
Tubeless tires are conventional wired-on tires, which are made to work without the typical inner tube, by using a sealant between the tire and rim, and to seal the spoke holes. They're popular for downhill mtn biking because they eliminate the issue of pinch flats (snakebites) which otherwise are an issue when hitting rocks and the like.
The advantage of tubulars is that they are a closed module, and don't depend on rim flanges to stay on against pressure. That means you can use lighter rims, and brake track wear is less likely to lead to catastrophic failure. There are other advantages, and also the drawbacks of higher cost, more difficult flat repair (you have to sew) and the reliance on a good glue job to keep them on.
Tubeless tires are conventional wired-on tires, which are made to work without the typical inner tube, by using a sealant between the tire and rim, and to seal the spoke holes. They're popular for downhill mtn biking because they eliminate the issue of pinch flats (snakebites) which otherwise are an issue when hitting rocks and the like.
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#9
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Well, we don't know what the OP intended, but text seems inadequate to answer in any case, so....
Ignoring the difference in rim sections, the important part is up where the tire is seated. On the left is a rim for a clincher or wired on tire, on the right a rim for a tubular (sew-up or glued-on) tire.
Sew-up tire (missing the protective tape that is normally covering the stitches)
Picture of a tubeless tire, which fits on a clincher rim. Note the sealing strip next to the rim.
Picture of a "tubular clincher" tire, also fit to a clincher rim.
Ignoring the difference in rim sections, the important part is up where the tire is seated. On the left is a rim for a clincher or wired on tire, on the right a rim for a tubular (sew-up or glued-on) tire.
Sew-up tire (missing the protective tape that is normally covering the stitches)
Picture of a tubeless tire, which fits on a clincher rim. Note the sealing strip next to the rim.
Picture of a "tubular clincher" tire, also fit to a clincher rim.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 03-05-13 at 11:57 AM.
#10
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There are tubes in tubular tires , its sewn in. hence the other name Sew-ups...
You patch the tubes by removing stitching around the area of the puncture ,
and then sewing the seam back up again.
You patch the tubes by removing stitching around the area of the puncture ,
and then sewing the seam back up again.
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#12
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Tubless is still a clincher, so relative to a tubular (sew-up) wheel, it will carry a 150+ gram weight disadvantage and still be scary dangerous in the event of sudden deflation.
Are any pros riding tubless - apart from training? Doubt it. When it matters they are still all on tubulars for the reasons above.
Are any pros riding tubless - apart from training? Doubt it. When it matters they are still all on tubulars for the reasons above.
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And to confuse things even more, Tufo (and perhaps others) make tubeless tubulars. So technically there are tubed and tubeless for both clincher and tubular.
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thank you guys for all input, now i know for road tire seems tubular better than tubeless tire for race despise sudden deflation.