Confused about bottom brackets
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 23
From: Lexington Park, Maryland
Bikes: Current: Origami Crane 8, Trek 1200 Former: 2012 Schwinn Trailway
Confused about bottom brackets
The bike: Stock Schwinn Trailway.
The primary goal: Extract and service (replace) the bottom bracket, which is making a clunking or popping noise
The secondary goal: Expand my toolkit
Seems simple, but I am confused about a few details. The questions:
1) How on earth do I find out what size BB these bikes have? I found out that they're "Square Taper" types, but looking up replaces leads me to a prompt for sizes.
2) What specific tool would do the extraction? I know what it looks like, but I don't know which one is exactly right.
Thanks!
M.
The primary goal: Extract and service (replace) the bottom bracket, which is making a clunking or popping noise
The secondary goal: Expand my toolkit
Seems simple, but I am confused about a few details. The questions:
1) How on earth do I find out what size BB these bikes have? I found out that they're "Square Taper" types, but looking up replaces leads me to a prompt for sizes.
2) What specific tool would do the extraction? I know what it looks like, but I don't know which one is exactly right.
Thanks!
M.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
OK accepting that they're square taper, then your Schwinn would have a threaded 1.370 x 24tpi BSC, (now ISO) BB. The main variable would b spindle length, but you can measure that anytime once the cranks are off.
Removing the crank requires a crank remover, but be careful, they come in 2 basic types, the older version for square taper, and the more recent version for OS splined spindles. The difference is in the pusher pad, and you need the right type.
Once the cranks are off, you can work on the bottom bracket, which requires different tools according to construction.
Removing the crank requires a crank remover, but be careful, they come in 2 basic types, the older version for square taper, and the more recent version for OS splined spindles. The difference is in the pusher pad, and you need the right type.
Once the cranks are off, you can work on the bottom bracket, which requires different tools according to construction.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,682
Likes: 4
From: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
hard to say w/o pics. you could take the bike to your LBS and i'm sure they would be more than happy to expand your tool box
. OTOH if you take a pic, there are a lot of people here who, i think, would be post advice.
. OTOH if you take a pic, there are a lot of people here who, i think, would be post advice.
#4
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
Likes: 12
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
I'm not sure how you looked up bottom bracket without coming across Sheldon's the or Park Tool sites, both of which have very full explanations with pictures of bottom bracket specifications, tools and adjust/repair procedures. There's no need to repeat everything here, so just Google (replace/overhaul/adjust/fix) bottom bracket and hit the YouTube option for videos.
As for size, you don't even know if you need to replace anything until you disassemble, at which point you have the parts in your hand to measure or take to a shop.
As for size, you don't even know if you need to replace anything until you disassemble, at which point you have the parts in your hand to measure or take to a shop.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 03-11-13 at 06:50 AM.
#5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 23
From: Lexington Park, Maryland
Bikes: Current: Origami Crane 8, Trek 1200 Former: 2012 Schwinn Trailway
Forgot about the thread! Thanks for the feed back. I read Sheldon's site but I'm afraid I might not have gotten it the first time through. Happens sometimes.
FBinNY: Is there any way I can tell by looking which specific one I will need to pull the cranks off?
M.
FBinNY: Is there any way I can tell by looking which specific one I will need to pull the cranks off?
M.
#6
https://www.target.com/p/schwinn-men-...y/-/A-13241180
I am 99% sure you will need these tools or something similar:
https://www.parktool.com/product/cran...-cranks-ccp-22
https://www.parktool.com/product/bott...et-tool-bbt-22
Here's the Park page on disassembly and reassembly: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...e-spindle-type
Since you describe that the crank is making a clunking or popping sound, it could be that one of the crankarms is a bit loose, or the bottom bracket is slightly loose in the frame. You might get away with simply tightening everything up. The best way to tell is to derail the chain off the chainrings and spin the cranks slowly. If they turn smoothly you're probably OK with simply tightening everything. Note that the bolts holding the cranks to the bottom bracket need to be very tight- 25 to 35 foot-pounds of torque. Not getting these tight enough can allow a crankarm to work loose, ruining it.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,373
Likes: 5,516
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Remove the arm retaining fastener, usually a 14mm nut/bolt or a 8mm Allen headed. Look at the now exposed arm/axle interface. Is the axle/arm contact in the shape of a square almost a 1/2" across or is it a "round" shape with many small splines? The square shape is the traditional tapered square type. the larger around with 8 or 10 notches/splines is the newer splined type. the tapered square arm pulling tool has a smaller end pad (which will fit inside the arm's square hole to push on the axle end). The splined type puller has a larger pad, to fit against the larger around axle end. Otherwise both pullers have the same general design. Their description should state which is which. Andy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
davidmcowan
Bicycle Mechanics
7
08-23-10 05:39 PM






