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-   -   Tool ID help please, (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/879157-tool-id-help-please.html)

westyat7000 03-21-13 04:51 PM

Tool ID help please,
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello Friends,
This tool came to me as part of a lot of tools, and I have no idea what it is for. It is marked Acier Forge, VAR, Made in France.
Anyone?
Thanks[

ATTACH=CONFIG]305994[/ATTACH]

Zef 03-21-13 05:39 PM

Looks like an old VAR lockring tool that would be used on cup and cone style bottom bracket lockrings and old headsets that have notched adjustable cups instead of wrench flats.


-j

bikeman715 03-21-13 05:41 PM

+1 on what Greenfieldja said .

Nick Bain 03-21-13 10:47 PM

Maynard.

Jeff Wills 03-21-13 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by bikeman715 (Post 15416293)
+1 on what Greenfieldja said .


+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.

Nick Bain 03-21-13 10:58 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff Wills (Post 15417162)
+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.

+ 5 I have two other bike nerds here that are wasting time with me.

JohnDThompson 03-22-13 05:12 AM


Originally Posted by Jeff Wills (Post 15417162)
+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.

Also on track hub lockrings.

TiBikeGuy 03-22-13 05:22 AM

1 Attachment(s)
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscf14f8b6.jpg

dsbrantjr 03-22-13 10:25 AM

BTW, "acier forgé" in French means "forged steel".

westyat7000 03-22-13 10:38 AM

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful.
Jeremy

Andrew R Stewart 03-22-13 02:42 PM

Take care when using this tool. While it is the best lock ring tool i have used (Excepting the size specific campy and Shimano types that encircle the ring) the replaceable hooks/dogs can scratch the BB shell. They have a cut away to help reduce this possibility but careful positioning is still needed. Andy.

Grand Bois 03-22-13 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart (Post 15419573)
Take care when using this tool. While it is the best lock ring tool i have used (Excepting the size specific campy and Shimano types that encircle the ring) the replaceable hooks/dogs can scratch the BB shell. They have a cut away to help reduce this possibility but careful positioning is still needed. Andy.

I learned that one the hard way. Still, it's the best I've ever used. It will also tighten/remove track cogs.

JohnDThompson 03-22-13 07:53 PM


Originally Posted by Grand Bois (Post 15420125)
I learned that one the hard way. Still, it's the best I've ever used. It will also tighten/remove track cogs.

The lockring, not the cog. You still need a chain whip to get the cog off.

Zef 03-23-13 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 15420693)
The lockring, not the cog. You still need a chain whip to get the cog off.

A chain whip is not necessary to remove a fixed gear cog. Once the lockring is removed you can reinstall the wheel and mash the pedals backwards to break the cog loose. In fact if the fixed gear cog has been in place for awhile and ridden up hills or sprinted on a bunch it may be very difficult to remove with a chain whip unless a long cheater bar is used to add more leverage...in this case using the bike may be easier and quicker.

-j

JohnDThompson 03-23-13 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by Greenfieldja (Post 15422534)
A chain whip is not necessary to remove a fixed gear cog. Once the lockring is removed you can reinstall the wheel and mash the pedals backwards to break the cog loose.

That's just a pedal-actuated chain whip.

Airburst 03-23-13 04:02 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 15422733)
That's just a pedal-actuated chain whip.

And probably operating with less mechanical advantage than a decent-sized actual chainwhip, meaning you need more force than you would with the chainwhip...


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