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Tool ID help please,

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Old 03-21-13 | 04:51 PM
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Tool ID help please,

Hello Friends,
This tool came to me as part of a lot of tools, and I have no idea what it is for. It is marked Acier Forge, VAR, Made in France.
Anyone?
Thanks[

ATTACH=CONFIG]305994[/ATTACH]
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Old 03-21-13 | 05:39 PM
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Looks like an old VAR lockring tool that would be used on cup and cone style bottom bracket lockrings and old headsets that have notched adjustable cups instead of wrench flats.


-j

Last edited by Zef; 03-21-13 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 03-21-13 | 05:41 PM
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+1 on what Greenfieldja said .
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Old 03-21-13 | 10:47 PM
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Maynard.
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Old 03-21-13 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bikeman715
+1 on what Greenfieldja said .

+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.
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Old 03-21-13 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.
+ 5 I have two other bike nerds here that are wasting time with me.
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Old 03-22-13 | 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Wills
+2. They worked pretty well on the old 6-notch lockrings.
Also on track hub lockrings.
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Old 03-22-13 | 05:22 AM
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Old 03-22-13 | 10:25 AM
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BTW, "acier forgé" in French means "forged steel".
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Old 03-22-13 | 10:38 AM
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Thanks for all the replies, very helpful.
Jeremy
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Old 03-22-13 | 02:42 PM
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Take care when using this tool. While it is the best lock ring tool i have used (Excepting the size specific campy and Shimano types that encircle the ring) the replaceable hooks/dogs can scratch the BB shell. They have a cut away to help reduce this possibility but careful positioning is still needed. Andy.
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Old 03-22-13 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Take care when using this tool. While it is the best lock ring tool i have used (Excepting the size specific campy and Shimano types that encircle the ring) the replaceable hooks/dogs can scratch the BB shell. They have a cut away to help reduce this possibility but careful positioning is still needed. Andy.
I learned that one the hard way. Still, it's the best I've ever used. It will also tighten/remove track cogs.
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Old 03-22-13 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois
I learned that one the hard way. Still, it's the best I've ever used. It will also tighten/remove track cogs.
The lockring, not the cog. You still need a chain whip to get the cog off.
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Old 03-23-13 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
The lockring, not the cog. You still need a chain whip to get the cog off.
A chain whip is not necessary to remove a fixed gear cog. Once the lockring is removed you can reinstall the wheel and mash the pedals backwards to break the cog loose. In fact if the fixed gear cog has been in place for awhile and ridden up hills or sprinted on a bunch it may be very difficult to remove with a chain whip unless a long cheater bar is used to add more leverage...in this case using the bike may be easier and quicker.

-j
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Old 03-23-13 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Greenfieldja
A chain whip is not necessary to remove a fixed gear cog. Once the lockring is removed you can reinstall the wheel and mash the pedals backwards to break the cog loose.
That's just a pedal-actuated chain whip.
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Old 03-23-13 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
That's just a pedal-actuated chain whip.
And probably operating with less mechanical advantage than a decent-sized actual chainwhip, meaning you need more force than you would with the chainwhip...
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