"floaty" back brake
#1
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"floaty" back brake
I've got a bit of a problem with my back brake.
When I pull the brake lever and let it go, it takes ages to go back to it's original position. From what I can see, the brake cable isn't securely attached to the nuts-attached-to-the-brake-lever that are meant to hold them into place. That might not be the problem, but it's just one of my observations.
These brake lever nuts (or whatever you call them) have a gap in them one side and seem to be made of plastic. I can't figure out if they've snapped, or are meant to look like that. The ones on my right brake have this gap, but the right brake works perfectly.
If you like, I can video me using the brake so you can see what i'm talking about.
Thanks for any ideas what this problem could be.
When I pull the brake lever and let it go, it takes ages to go back to it's original position. From what I can see, the brake cable isn't securely attached to the nuts-attached-to-the-brake-lever that are meant to hold them into place. That might not be the problem, but it's just one of my observations.
These brake lever nuts (or whatever you call them) have a gap in them one side and seem to be made of plastic. I can't figure out if they've snapped, or are meant to look like that. The ones on my right brake have this gap, but the right brake works perfectly.
If you like, I can video me using the brake so you can see what i'm talking about.
Thanks for any ideas what this problem could be.
#2
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With a few exceptions, such as Dia Compe BRS brakes, all the return force comes from the caliper's return spring. So sluggish return can usually traced back to either something in the caliper, or most commonly cable friction.
You can eliminate the caliper quick enough by squeezing it closed with your hand around the shoes, then letting go. Since this doesn't involve the cable, it should snap back open. If it doesn't then there's friction within the caliper or a damaged/weak spring. OTOH of the caliper works OK, but there's still sluggish return when using the lever, then odds favor cable friction as the cause.
Of course there could also be a damaged lever or friction within the lever, but this is the least likely cause.
You can eliminate the caliper quick enough by squeezing it closed with your hand around the shoes, then letting go. Since this doesn't involve the cable, it should snap back open. If it doesn't then there's friction within the caliper or a damaged/weak spring. OTOH of the caliper works OK, but there's still sluggish return when using the lever, then odds favor cable friction as the cause.
Of course there could also be a damaged lever or friction within the lever, but this is the least likely cause.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I had a return spring works it's way off of one sidestop. Check to make sure that the sprint is centered. ^This sounds like a cable issue to me though.
#5
Mechanic/Tourist
As FB pointed out how the lever moves is a function of the amount of resistance in the cable/housing and the amount of pull exerted by the caliper - in turn related to spring tension and pivot tightness. Nothing but the tension from the caliper holds the housing and cable ferrule to the brake lever. It's best to make sure both the caliper and cable/housing are working properly, which means the caliper snaps open when compressed by hand but has very little back and forth play, and the cable moves very easily within the housing. Most bikes have split cable stops on the frame which allow you to remove the housing and check the cable where it is inside the housing.
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I think they're just rim brakes.
I tested the caliper how FBinNY suggested. The caliper is working fine. This means that it's probably a cable problem.
Being proactive, I removed the brake cable using a youtube video as guidance. The cable was rusty on one end and, when I removed it from the cable housing, the cable housing itself was bent and wonky. I'll buy a new set of cable and housing, and tell you how I get on.
I have run into another problem though. As I was removing the cable, a bit of plastic fell out of the brake pipe. Is this part necessary for the brake pipe to work or do I need to buy a new one?
Thanks in advance.
I tested the caliper how FBinNY suggested. The caliper is working fine. This means that it's probably a cable problem.
Being proactive, I removed the brake cable using a youtube video as guidance. The cable was rusty on one end and, when I removed it from the cable housing, the cable housing itself was bent and wonky. I'll buy a new set of cable and housing, and tell you how I get on.
I have run into another problem though. As I was removing the cable, a bit of plastic fell out of the brake pipe. Is this part necessary for the brake pipe to work or do I need to buy a new one?
Thanks in advance.
#7
aka Phil Jungels
Put it back in. Assuming you are talking about that piece in the noodle.
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This is the part i'm talking about:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Li...item2c68a0e4c7
It had a plastic "sleeve" inside it that fell out. The plastic is old and cracked, so i'm not going to put it back in. I was wondering if just the metal part would work instead, but it might add to the friction.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Li...item2c68a0e4c7
It had a plastic "sleeve" inside it that fell out. The plastic is old and cracked, so i'm not going to put it back in. I was wondering if just the metal part would work instead, but it might add to the friction.
#9
Really Old Senior Member
It'll work. Just grease it first.
#10
aka Phil Jungels
New noodles, with the liner already in it, are cheap.
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