Any recommendations? I would go for the park but I see some reviews that they don't fit well and can round out the bolts.

Hex sockets or hex (Allen) bits? For either type, Craftsman, SK Wayne, Proto or for the ultimate ($$$) buy Snap-On.

Ouch, those snap-ons are $$$!

Please be aware that hex driver bits (if that is what you are looking for) are subject to wear and need to be replaced as this occurs so that they do not round out the bolts' socket heads. You can get a little more wear out of them by grinding the ends flat so that new, sharp driving corners are exposed.

6- or 12-point socket drivers (for hex head bolts) are less prone to wear; I have a Craftsman set which is over 40 years old with heavy use which is still in good shape.

I bought one full set of hex wrenches and now only buy 5mm and 4mm ones individually from McMaster, as the other sizes basically never wear out.

I recently bought a nice Craftsman metric socket set, with a 1/4" driver, from Sears.
Convenient case, good quality driver, $18 price.

Proto's are great. I wouldn't buy Snap-on there's just no need for that level to be used on a bicycle. Craftsman, Kobalt, Husky, etc are of the same level as Harbor Freight nowadays. Hobby stores sell some of the best hex tools on the market with brands like Integy, Ofna, and PBSwiss, but their pricey.

If you have an old set and they look worn on the ends, only about the first 1/8th of inch are worn, simply take a bench grinder and grind it down to just a hair below the worn out area.

Low quality hex wrenches that round out hex bolts can be really expensive. If you cant buy separate high quality hex wrenches buy the whole set, and only carry the ones with you that your bike needs.

BTW there is an old saying that I quite often use. If the old farmer want high quality hay, he is going to have to be willing to pay for it. If he doesnt mind hay that has been thru the horse once, of course he can pay less.

For Allen wrenches, I found a set at NAPA for a very reasonable price. It included a 10MM for those that remove Shimano free hubs.

Actually the Allen brand is a nice brand of hex wrenches. I don't buy hex wrenches made for bikes, I got a set because I needed them for car stuff and of course they work on bikes, no need to go buy special hex tools (or some other tools) just because your working on a bike. Usually when I work on my bikes I can handle all the minor stuff with the Park MTB3 mini tool I keep in the seat bag, so use it more then my other tools because it's already with the bike and I don't have run to my tool box. The Park MTB3 mini is holding up just fine for the last 12 or 15 years I've had it and I've used it a lot. I even fixed a person's car with it once.

craftsman ones are junk. snap on with the gold bits are nice. bondhus is good for the L style. i have some lisle brand that i have been happy with. also have newer allen brand made in china that i abuse with an impact, no issues

I haven't used the Allen's made in China, I got mine years ago, probably 40 years ago when they were made in Amercia, I've used them a lot over the years as one can imagine and their still fine.

I use Bondhus drivers; they're USA made, they have a lifetime warranty, and they are affordable.

lol I'd like to read reviews on a ratchet set.

Sears/Canadian tire have lifetime warranties AFAIK, you can bring in a busted tool and they'll replace it.

Sears tools do have a no hassle guarantee that's for sure, but their quality had dropped considerably over the years.

WIHA is the industry standard for hex bits. I find their quality second to none.

Thanks all. I ordered a Proto set.

Proto is very nice, most of my tools are Proto...howbeit many years old now, but they work great.

Sorry to necropost, but do you guys think I should go with a 1/4 or 3/8 socket set? I have a nice bondus L set, but it might be nice to use a ratcheting tool.

I can get a 1/4 drive set with
2 mm, 2 1/2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm
or a 3/8 drive with
4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 7 mm, 8 mm, 9 mm, 10 mm (or one that excludes the 7 and 9)

Both have 4/5/6 so no issues there. Since most of the applications aren't high torque, I might prefer using the smaller 1/4 drive ratchet (which would also allow for a couple smaller sizes), but when I would want torque , I might benefit from the 3/8 drive with the bigger ratchet handle. Also, this would get me up to the 10mm for the sram crank bolt (still won't be big enough for the campy cranks though).

Any input from people who have actually used ratcheting tools on their bikes? Do you like the more nimble 1/4 tools? Would a 3/8 set, a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor and a 1/4 ratchet be a reasonable compromise?

I don't like using adaptors especially on a 3/8 set, but it can be done I just don't like the bulkiness of the adaptors, but if you don't want to buy a 3/8th set then by all means use an adapter.

You can get a made in China (the same as all the other retail stores will have) for less money at Harbor Freight and they have lifetime warranty with no receipt needed exchange program. You don't need a superior quality 3/8th set to work on a bike unless you have money to burn and wan the best then find a Snap On dealer, but their kind of hassle for warranty because you have to go and find one that happens to be at a mechanic shop.

Old post. But I just wanted to say that my Kobalt ball-end set has served well enough. Probably time to replace the 5mm, but it hasn't slipped on anything. A good excuse to get a bench grinder, I guess.

I'm surprised noone has mentioned ball-end allen keys. Am I missing something? Is it bad to be able to spin bolts in from odd angles, st least at low torque?

yep but they're quality and I'm fairly certain they have lifetime replacement in the event of a break. (or is that craftsman?)

A number of Park wrenches are made by Bondhus (or at least they incorporate Bondhus rods). Are the bits also made by Bonhus?

Snap On has a lifetime warranty on just mechanical hand tools. But for a bike tool Snap On is way over kill, and you can get the same warranty through Harbor Freight and get tools for far less money that are more than able to handle the "rigors" of bicycle repair.

Low torque is the key. I don't own a set of ball-end allen wrenches, but if I did I would only use them for things like bottle cages (low torque, plus odd angle sometimes necessary). I especially wouldn't use them on a stuck fastener that is at risk of rounding. With things like this, if I own the tool I tend to use it when it sometimes is not appropriate. Like when working on the car I'll grab a 12-point socket just because that's the first thing I lay my hands on, rather than get the 6-point socket to use on that rusty bolt that might round off.

-Ken