Tire Bead Jack?
05-01-13 | 06:13 AM
#1
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From: NE Ohio
Bikes: 1992 Serotta Colorado II,Co-Motion Speedster, Giant Escape Hybrid, 1977 Schwinn Super Le Tour
Tire Bead Jack?
Saw this in use at the LBS yesterday. I was wondering if anyone has any info on a compact one? Thinking of one for our kit while touring.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire.../dp/B001AYML7K
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire.../dp/B001AYML7K
05-01-13 | 06:22 AM
#2
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Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
I think a "compact" version of that tool would defeat the purpose since it depends on providing a lot of leverage to seat difficult tires. I have a similar tool made by VAR that is smaller and not as useful.
05-01-13 | 06:51 AM
#3
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
If you want something small and easy to carry, Schwalbe make a product called Easy Fit https://www.schwalbetires.com/easy_fit_page that may be useful.
05-01-13 | 07:43 AM
#4
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From: Wichita, KS, USA
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VAR compact bead jack
This thing works a treat. I have a Kool-Stop bead jack as well, and I prefer to use the VAR tool because it's less likely to slip off the rim and tire while you're seating the bead. The Kool-Stop jack hinges outward, while the VAR tool tends to squeeze the tire slightly as you use it.
This thing works a treat. I have a Kool-Stop bead jack as well, and I prefer to use the VAR tool because it's less likely to slip off the rim and tire while you're seating the bead. The Kool-Stop jack hinges outward, while the VAR tool tends to squeeze the tire slightly as you use it.
05-01-13 | 07:43 AM
#5
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If you NEED a tool or other aid to mount a tire (in the dark, in the rain, when you are tired) you had better make sure that you have it with you when you get a flat on the road. I won't run a tire/rim combination that I cannot mount with my take-along tools.
05-01-13 | 07:50 AM
#6
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Was a smaller one, made by VAR , but they went out of production some years ago.
though the above post seems to indicate a revival, version
sort of tweezer like., i have a pair in the patch kit for tight tires..
the molded in tire lever does not last long , i smoothed over the broken one then and include a couple Michelin HiLite levers
to total 3.
perhaps as described the FG reinforced re-issue will be better..
though the above post seems to indicate a revival, version
sort of tweezer like., i have a pair in the patch kit for tight tires..
the molded in tire lever does not last long , i smoothed over the broken one then and include a couple Michelin HiLite levers
to total 3.
perhaps as described the FG reinforced re-issue will be better..
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-01-13 at 08:12 AM.
05-01-13 | 10:48 AM
#7
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I have one and it does help with very tight tires. Not heavily used but it does indeed work. Have not used anything other than this so I have no comments there. It is very easy and straightforward to use. You do have to make sure that the hook is under the bead to pull it onto the rim and it sometimes takes a few tries, but it has not failed me yet.
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05-01-13 | 12:57 PM
#8
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Crank brothers make one .https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers..._bxgy_sg_img_y .
05-01-13 | 01:25 PM
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05-02-13 | 12:59 PM
#10
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I've got both the Kool Stop and the VAR I carry the VAR on every bike I have, and got one for my wife's bike as well. I don't know if it's lack of hand strength, or a tight combination (Conti GP4000 in 650c on various rims), but since I got back into cycling, I have been unable to mount a tire onto a rim unaided. The VAR works very well (just used it last weekend on the side of the road), but when I needed to put new tires on the tandem (Marathon Racers in 26x1.5), I needed the extra oomph from the Kool Stop (I'm pretty sure I could have eventually gotten them on with the VAR, but I had never used the Kool Stop and figured I'd give it a try).
05-02-13 | 01:25 PM
#11
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From: Wichita, KS, USA
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Any clincher type tire that fails to bead up by the time it has reached its max pressure is a defective tire, in which case, it should be returned to the manufacturer. I don’t hesitate in returning defective tires to the manufacturer.
It’s especially obvious the tire is defective when you’ve mounted many sets of the same tire on the same rims and all had previously beaded up properly long before reaching their max pressures. The fact that the one tire fails to do so by the time it reaches its max pressure is a sure indication that the tire was manufactured incorrectly. Clincher type tires shouldn’t require any special tools to make their beads seat properly, as their normal air pressure alone should suffice.
I had a set of 700 x 32 tires whose max pressure was 110 PSI. One of the two tires beaded properly to either rim whereas the defective tire wouldn’t bead up properly to either rim. Even when inflated to 135 PSI, one side of the tire’s bead would not bead up. I returned the tire, as I’m unwilling to accept defective products that my life depends upon and I’m not about to deal with a tire that won’t bead up properly when I’m 50+ miles from home and attempting to make a roadside tire repair. Due to the side that wouldn’t bead up properly, the tire was out of round by just over 1/4 of an inch, so riding on the tire in that condition would be abusive to bike and rider.
Make the tire manufacturers eat their own defective products and you’ll be doing everyone a favor.
It’s especially obvious the tire is defective when you’ve mounted many sets of the same tire on the same rims and all had previously beaded up properly long before reaching their max pressures. The fact that the one tire fails to do so by the time it reaches its max pressure is a sure indication that the tire was manufactured incorrectly. Clincher type tires shouldn’t require any special tools to make their beads seat properly, as their normal air pressure alone should suffice.
I had a set of 700 x 32 tires whose max pressure was 110 PSI. One of the two tires beaded properly to either rim whereas the defective tire wouldn’t bead up properly to either rim. Even when inflated to 135 PSI, one side of the tire’s bead would not bead up. I returned the tire, as I’m unwilling to accept defective products that my life depends upon and I’m not about to deal with a tire that won’t bead up properly when I’m 50+ miles from home and attempting to make a roadside tire repair. Due to the side that wouldn’t bead up properly, the tire was out of round by just over 1/4 of an inch, so riding on the tire in that condition would be abusive to bike and rider.
Make the tire manufacturers eat their own defective products and you’ll be doing everyone a favor.
05-02-13 | 02:16 PM
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05-02-13 | 02:17 PM
#13
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Here's a tip, though. After seating the first bead starting at the valve stem, start the second one opposite the stem and finish at the stem. You'll have more bead in the center of the channel, making it a bit looser for that final pop. Remember to push the stem in the hole to make sure the tube is seated.
05-02-13 | 09:14 PM
#15
Saw this in use at the LBS yesterday. I was wondering if anyone has any info on a compact one? Thinking of one for our kit while touring.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire.../dp/B001AYML7K
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire.../dp/B001AYML7K
05-02-13 | 09:30 PM
#16
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Not only may you need a jack, but there's a decent chance you might not be able to remove the tire to fix a flat on the road. The right bead jack is the one you don't need.
Use good practice to mount tires, then select tire and rim combinations that allow for relatively easy mounting and dismounting. Things like careful tube selection, thinner rim liners, or none and plugs instead also help.
My rule for tire fit calls for them to be mounted and removed, on a cold rainy night, with half numb fingers. I insist on that as the standard, because that's when I get flats.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-02-13 | 09:41 PM
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Crank brothers make one .https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers..._bxgy_sg_img_y .
the handle telescopes out and connects to your axle providing a nice tethered sweeping action with lots of torque.
My vittoria evo corsa's are a very tight on my zondas and this tool handles it no sweat.
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05-03-13 | 08:13 PM
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Great idea. Only one problem (at least for me), how do you know what tire and rim combinations allow for relatively easy mounting and dismounting (before buying one or the other or both)? Is there a cross-referenced table posted somewhere?
05-03-13 | 08:35 PM
#21
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I've also gone in to shops and tried a few tires on rims where friends had issues (I ride tubulars). I admit that I might get some slack because I have a business relationship, but I expect that if one were to bring in a wheel and ask to check various tires for fit, most decent shops would be OK with that.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-04-13 | 06:43 AM
#22
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And this is why I ride with my tire bead jack (at least on my bike with 20" wheels where it is just a &#$^ to get the tire on).
05-04-13 | 02:55 PM
#23
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Crank brothers make one .https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers..._bxgy_sg_img_y .
While it can indeed speed up the removal of a moderately difficult tire, it won't be of much help with a properly difficult tire. And I've never had any use of the speed mounting feature at all.
The VAR tool is so-so IMO. I suppose that for someone with a modest reduction of hand strength - or poor technique, the VAR tool can even out the odds a bit. But for a well and truly stubborn tire I still prefer to reach for my set of three steel-cored, plastic clad regular tire levers.
05-05-13 | 11:02 AM
#24
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I have to say that you will probably never find that tool on any experienced tourer because with experience you'll find a wheel/tire combination that will not require you to need that tool. While it may be useful in the short run, I would reflect the other comments that imply you should look for a tire, and get the experience you need, to be able to mount and remove your tires without that tool.
