Alex TA-20 Specs?
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Alex TA-20 Specs?
Hi all,
I just purchased a set of Alex TA-20, 36H wheels and tires used off of CL for an awesome deal. Wheels are pretty True, but certainly used. With that aside. I am looking for any information about this wheelset. I do know that they are laced to Marin Hub(s)? Rear unknown. However did find that the Larkspur Commuter bike from Marin Bikes used this wheel and that the rear is apparently Shimano RM-30, 36 Hole. I have asked the seller to confirm which bike these were pulled from but for such a cheap price, I am not holding my breath for a reply.
Anyone know anything about these wheels? I have managed to stretch my 86' Peugeot P4 to accommodate the 700C rear wheel. The front was a snap The reason I jumped on this set was 1) the price b) 36H and c) they are black. I am a big guy 6'4" 250lbs. so looking for a durable wheel to support me as I trim down
Any thoughts, information is most welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks,
Fred
I just purchased a set of Alex TA-20, 36H wheels and tires used off of CL for an awesome deal. Wheels are pretty True, but certainly used. With that aside. I am looking for any information about this wheelset. I do know that they are laced to Marin Hub(s)? Rear unknown. However did find that the Larkspur Commuter bike from Marin Bikes used this wheel and that the rear is apparently Shimano RM-30, 36 Hole. I have asked the seller to confirm which bike these were pulled from but for such a cheap price, I am not holding my breath for a reply.
Anyone know anything about these wheels? I have managed to stretch my 86' Peugeot P4 to accommodate the 700C rear wheel. The front was a snap The reason I jumped on this set was 1) the price b) 36H and c) they are black. I am a big guy 6'4" 250lbs. so looking for a durable wheel to support me as I trim down
Any thoughts, information is most welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks,
Fred
Last edited by infinite Junkie; 05-07-13 at 12:41 PM.
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These are OEM wheels, like machine built. They might be okay and somewhat durable as far as rims. The TA-20's are OEM rims not normally listed for retail on Alexrims.com so it's hard to judge what's inside the double box. But if it's like most of the Alex rims I've built and ridden, it's probably just fine. The issue is more with the spokes on the rear. At 250lbs, might not be a problem. But I'm about 25 lbs heavier than you and just sprinting up hills on my SS/Fixie with DC19 rims has broken OEM spokes. The rim was tough though and went through 3 spoke repairs in a month (at about 800 miles) before I trashed it and rebuilt the whole thing which solved my spoke problems.
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These are OEM wheels, like machine built. They might be okay and somewhat durable as far as rims. The TA-20's are OEM rims not normally listed for retail on Alexrims.com so it's hard to judge what's inside the double box. But if it's like most of the Alex rims I've built and ridden, it's probably just fine. The issue is more with the spokes on the rear. At 250lbs, might not be a problem. But I'm about 25 lbs heavier than you and just sprinting up hills on my SS/Fixie with DC19 rims has broken OEM spokes. The rim was tough though and went through 3 spoke repairs in a month (at about 800 miles) before I trashed it and rebuilt the whole thing which solved my spoke problems.
#4
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Get the spokes tensioned sooner rather than later.
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 05-07-13 at 03:42 PM.
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We had an issue with some of the Marin speced wheels the last couple of years. Spoke breakage without a riding history of hard use and in a short period after bike purchase. I don't know if your wheels are the model that we suffered with. While in each case Marin did come through with suitable credit or replacement it was like pulling teeth.
As a big rider you'll have more issues with any wheel you use then small guys. I hope these wheels do you right. Andy.
As a big rider you'll have more issues with any wheel you use then small guys. I hope these wheels do you right. Andy.
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Get the spokes tensioned sooner rather than later.
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
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Get the spokes tensioned sooner rather than later.
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
That will make a major difference in their life.
Rear is most important, since it carries more weight and undergoes the torque from pedaling.
Think of it as having 1/2 the spokes trying to "unwind" with every stroke, while the other 1/2 are getting "stretched".
Equal tension helps them to share the stresses more equally.
BTW- The RM-30 hubs are available online for about $20, so they aren't the highest quality.
I've actually built 3 wheels this Winter using them, with the expectation they will be serviced rather frequently.
New bearings and grease are about $1.25?
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My experience with the spokes that come with three different Alex wheelsets out of China or Taiwan was that tension alone wasn't the issue. Heads aren't matched to hub flange. The curvature radius on all the spokes was too large. I didn't know or really care at first. I just lubed the nipples, loosened all the spokes front and rear, re-tensioned and rode on them. The rear wheel on the set I rode failed at 800 miles +/- 50 miles for 3 spokes. That's when I took it apart and replaced all the drive side spokes. But then the non-drive side failed, so I replaced another 18 (total 36). Been fine now for 2000 miles or so. But the radius on the old spokes was considerably longer than the wheelsmith ones I replaced them with. The front, I took apart, then rebuilt using small brass washers on the head where it presses up against the hub flange. Surprisingly, the front wheel, with original spokes and the washers has lasted close to 3k miles. It simply doesn't see the stress, especially when I sprint up hills, which is when I hear the snap/ping and look down to see the potato chip. Knock on wood, hopefully the new spokes hold. The other sets went on bikes for sub 150 lb riders. Not a single issue reported in year now. There are clearly challenges to big guys looking for good, CHEAP, wheels.
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