What tool for this headset?
 

I think I need a lockring wrench of some sort for this 3 tab ?washer? at the top of the stack. 82' Miyata. I don't see a matching headset wrench advertised anywhere I've looked. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=315997

Pretty sure that this took a pair of channel locks rather than a specialized tool. Isn't this movable by hand at this point since the lock ring has been taken off? If not, make sure that the notched washer isn't binding in some fashion and try a pair of channel locks.

I'll bet there is/was a proper tool for this, but I tend to use channel locks myself and damn the scratches.

No, not free at this point. I tried channel locks but was just chewing it up. Figured there must be specific tool.

hook spanner FTW

Let some oil soak in there overnight, then try again. If you don't mind how mangled the ring gets, Vice-Grips or a big pipe wrench will surely move it.

Drift punch and hammer should work too. Less marring of the surfaces than from a pipe wrench.

This:

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/produ...nner-20271.jpg

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...tem_id=LF-0300

A regular lockring wrench wouldn't work? I've seen it used for a knotched bb.

Hozan make a hook spanner for this. Won't find one like it anymore, but any old spanner will do, perhaps with some modification.

The radius on the steer tube is smaller than that of e.g. a bottom bracket, so it is not a foregone conclusion that a lockring wrench designed for a bottom bracket will work. The hinged lockring wrench I referenced can accommodate a wider range of tube diameters. Hozan also made a double-ended lockring wrench that accommodated bottom bracket diameters on one end and headset diameters on the other, but it's more expensive than the hinged wrench I referenced:

http://www.excelsports.com/image/Hoz...ol%20C-205.jpg

if the bike is a keeper, you can use tools like a small cold chisel & hammer, drive that 3 spline ring off

and be done with it.
then seek out a headset you can live with.. and have tool;s for..

I would not buy a tool that will likely be used once for a rusty headset, especially one that shows previous evidence of channel lock pliers being used. As there is a tabbed lockwasher below that lockring you don't need a 2nd tool to hold the adjustable race in place.

That's what I was going to say too. Actually, I think that would be my first choice.

I normally remove and install such threaded rings using hammer and punch/screwdriver, but these rings are useless unless fully torqued.

This post got me to thinking that I could easily re-radius the ID of one of my extra lockring spanners, using a die grinder.

Thanks, JohnDThompson for listing the spanner with a flex-pivot. I didn't know those existed.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=316316I found this wrench to work perfectly and is also handy for removing the stock off your AR-15 type rifle.. :thumb: http://www.amazon.com/Military-Steel.../dp/B004Q6RVY2

I was going to suggest the same tool. Its a castle nut wrench for for the AR 15. I use it when I work on mine. Good job guys.

It totally doesn't; that's the foregone conclusion.

You can rework the ID of the tool with a die-grinder, but you'll also have to back-cut the hook's drive side to keep it from ramping off of the lockring notch's driven side.

Thanks JohnDThompson. With the collective encouragement I went at it again with Kroil plus channel locks, and.... nothing. Just ordered this tool, hopefully will have the headset apart in no time.

Whatever floats your boat but I don't get it - no specialized tool needed to disassemble and too rusted to worry about damage in the process. The adjustable tool does not have anything tht would allow you to remove the nut if it's corroded in place, and in fact I believe it's quite short. Aga

Don't see how channel-lok plyers cannot work. Make sure you have a wheel in the fork. Stand from the front facing back and squeeze the wheel with your legs. Set channel-lock plyers to width-range that has the handles about 1.5-2.5-" apart when squeezed together on the lockring. Now, there's two orientations of the plyers, make sure you have it to grip tighter in the loosening direction of the lockring. Then squeeze as hard as you can on the plyers with both hands and rotate in the loosening direction for the lockring.

Chrome can be pretty slippery for pliers, unless you're willing to clamp down so hard that the the chrome gets damaged.