What tool for this headset?
05-10-13, 01:52 PM
#1
joel52
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What tool for this headset?
I think I need a lockring wrench of some sort for this 3 tab ?washer? at the top of the stack. 82' Miyata. I don't see a matching headset wrench advertised anywhere I've looked. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
05-10-13, 01:54 PM
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Pretty sure that this took a pair of channel locks rather than a specialized tool. Isn't this movable by hand at this point since the lock ring has been taken off? If not, make sure that the notched washer isn't binding in some fashion and try a pair of channel locks.
05-10-13, 01:57 PM
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05-10-13, 01:57 PM
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No, not free at this point. I tried channel locks but was just chewing it up. Figured there must be specific tool.
05-10-13, 02:10 PM
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Let some oil soak in there overnight, then try again. If you don't mind how mangled the ring gets, Vice-Grips or a big pipe wrench will surely move it.
05-10-13, 02:19 PM
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05-10-13, 02:39 PM
#10
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Hozan make a hook spanner for this. Won't find one like it anymore, but any old spanner will do, perhaps with some modification.
05-10-13, 11:04 PM
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05-10-13, 11:58 PM
#12
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if the bike is a keeper, you can use tools like a small cold chisel & hammer, drive that 3 spline ring off
and be done with it.
then seek out a headset you can live with.. and have tool;s for..
and be done with it.
then seek out a headset you can live with.. and have tool;s for..
05-11-13, 05:27 AM
#13
Mechanic/Tourist
I would not buy a tool that will likely be used once for a rusty headset, especially one that shows previous evidence of channel lock pliers being used. As there is a tabbed lockwasher below that lockring you don't need a 2nd tool to hold the adjustable race in place.
05-11-13, 01:23 PM
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That's what I was going to say too. Actually, I think that would be my first choice.
05-11-13, 05:39 PM
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I normally remove and install such threaded rings using hammer and punch/screwdriver, but these rings are useless unless fully torqued.
This post got me to thinking that I could easily re-radius the ID of one of my extra lockring spanners, using a die grinder.
Thanks, JohnDThompson for listing the spanner with a flex-pivot. I didn't know those existed.
This post got me to thinking that I could easily re-radius the ID of one of my extra lockring spanners, using a die grinder.
Thanks, JohnDThompson for listing the spanner with a flex-pivot. I didn't know those existed.
05-11-13, 11:00 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/Military-Steel.../dp/B004Q6RVY2
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 05-11-13 at 11:03 PM.
05-12-13, 01:22 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/Military-Steel.../dp/B004Q6RVY2
05-13-13, 04:24 AM
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It totally doesn't; that's the foregone conclusion.
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05-14-13, 01:22 AM
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06-01-13, 12:25 PM
#20
joel52
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Thanks JohnDThompson. With the collective encouragement I went at it again with Kroil plus channel locks, and.... nothing. Just ordered this tool, hopefully will have the headset apart in no time.
06-02-13, 10:27 AM
#21
Mechanic/Tourist
Whatever floats your boat but I don't get it - no specialized tool needed to disassemble and too rusted to worry about damage in the process. The adjustable tool does not have anything tht would allow you to remove the nut if it's corroded in place, and in fact I believe it's quite short. Aga
06-03-13, 01:41 AM
#22
Senior Member
Don't see how channel-lok plyers cannot work. Make sure you have a wheel in the fork. Stand from the front facing back and squeeze the wheel with your legs. Set channel-lock plyers to width-range that has the handles about 1.5-2.5-" apart when squeezed together on the lockring. Now, there's two orientations of the plyers, make sure you have it to grip tighter in the loosening direction of the lockring. Then squeeze as hard as you can on the plyers with both hands and rotate in the loosening direction for the lockring.
06-03-13, 10:24 AM
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Don't see how channel-lok plyers cannot work. Make sure you have a wheel in the fork. Stand from the front facing back and squeeze the wheel with your legs. Set channel-lock plyers to width-range that has the handles about 1.5-2.5-" apart when squeezed together on the lockring. Now, there's two orientations of the plyers, make sure you have it to grip tighter in the loosening direction of the lockring. Then squeeze as hard as you can on the plyers with both hands and rotate in the loosening direction for the lockring.
