Can anyone tell me what the tool may look like that takes this lockring off? Unfortunately this is the second locknut above a top race which with no wrench flats. I opened this up before, but I forget how and I am afraid that a screwdriver + hammer would deform the ring to the extent it would not mate well with what goes on top. It has a chrome finish on the sides, so a rag with channel locks is not readily feasible.

The right tool is a hook spanner wit a tight radius like a Hozan Lock Ring Tool. But the quick way is to just remove the lock ring with a channel lock pliers and replace it with a spacer. Far easier to set the bearing adjustment this way. Andy

agree with Andy. you can also use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to start turning that piece.
I keep these on some of my old bikes. Less chance of the headset loosening over time with two locknuts. But this is mostly a non-existent problem with a well-adjusted headset anyway.

I have seen a Channelock-type plier with one jaw ground down to make a hook to engage the notches of such a ring, but of course the proper hook spanner tool is preferable.

Hook spanner, like below. You need the size to be close. There are also hook spanners with a swivel that allows you to apply it to a range of notched locknut sizes. (Pic added).

I have a couple of brass drifts that come in handy for this sort of thing. There is little chance of damaging the steel ring because the brass deforms first.

This tool used to come with every new Raleigh 3-Speed sold:





And then there is this one, the Park Tool HCW-5:

Will probably work


Probably won't work. The diameter on the hook spanner is too large. It won't fit right.

I have picked up numerous sizes of hook spanners at garage and estate sales. For one of my "aero" headset nuts a tap wrench fit perfect after a little filing.

Beer Taps/Faucets | High Quality Spanner Wrench For Sale | Ultra Flow

If you're going to be fiddling around with vintage bikes (it's an addiction) you're going to need to start collecting the various tools required. Start soaking those threads in penetrating oil. Order a hook spanner wrench. By the time it arrives the threads should be nice & ready.

and learn to ignore any poster whose genius solution is to hammer on a screwdriver instead of sourcing the right tools. If they can't afford even the most simple hand tools within the hobby of working on bikes how much success/experience do they have in life??

Always use the right tool for the job. A kid working at McDondlds can afford bike tools.

I've used the HCW-5 to remove one of these. It didn't work WELL... but it did work.


Using a punch/drift made of a softer metal than the (likely) steel lockring will do no damage to the lockring itself and will most definitely do the job.

I use a drift to disassemble the top half of freewheels all of the time because the actual tool for the job, a pin spanner, is woefully inadequate to remove the lockring. A few taps with a punch brings it right apart.

I've got an old Nishiki with a similar headset. I filed an old set of channel locks as per suggestions on this forum. Worked fine. Then, as luck would have it, I found the right Hozen tool at a swap meet. And as a bonus, the other side was exactly what I'd been needing/borrowing from a neighbor for my Peugeot BB's.



https://www.amazon.com/Lockring-Head.../dp/B0017SE6ZY