Disassembling / Retoring WECO Pedals
#1
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Disassembling / Retoring WECO Pedals
I have a pair of WECO (Made in Germany) pedals that I would like to disassemble and service. Has anyone ever done that? On the Lyotard pedals I have done in the past, the dust caps either pry off, or screw off easily. Here ... not so much. Are these sealed and I am just out of luck, or is there a trick? I wouldn't think that the Germans, of all people, would make something disposable ...


#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
These are not designed to be serviced. They are assembled in sequence with rivet like construction, and usually cannot be opened non-destructively. On some where you can remove the dust cap, you'll find the bearing retained with something similar to a speedcap which likewise is a one-way one-shot fastener.
If you want to grease them, your best bet is aerosol foam grease which can be injected into the gap at the crank end, and forced to the outer bearing by centrifugal force. (Tie a string around the pedal and spin around as fast as possible with the threaded end toward the center)
BTW- if you're really serious about making them serviceable, drill a 1/16" hold through the end cap so you can pump grease in with a grease gun, then drive it to the crank end bearing by spinning on a string. the new grease will push the older dirty grease out. When finished cover the hole with an adhesive plug (my favorite is the soft PVC stick on feet made for glassware. -- buy at craft or collectibles stores)
If you want to grease them, your best bet is aerosol foam grease which can be injected into the gap at the crank end, and forced to the outer bearing by centrifugal force. (Tie a string around the pedal and spin around as fast as possible with the threaded end toward the center)
BTW- if you're really serious about making them serviceable, drill a 1/16" hold through the end cap so you can pump grease in with a grease gun, then drive it to the crank end bearing by spinning on a string. the new grease will push the older dirty grease out. When finished cover the hole with an adhesive plug (my favorite is the soft PVC stick on feet made for glassware. -- buy at craft or collectibles stores)
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-19-13 at 03:26 PM.
#3
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Bummer that they aren't meant to be serviced. How un-German of them! I remember taking out obscure parts out of my 1977 Mercedes Diesel, and I swear - each one was engineered to be replaced. Those cars were made to last forever!
I wouldn't have thought of greasing with foam grease a million years! Not even in TWO million years!! I happen to have a can of White Lithium Grease from NAPA - is that the stuff you're talking about? Tell me more about the string and spinning and threaded end toward the center. Do you meant to hold it with the threaded end pointing up and pulling the string?
I wouldn't have thought of greasing with foam grease a million years! Not even in TWO million years!! I happen to have a can of White Lithium Grease from NAPA - is that the stuff you're talking about? Tell me more about the string and spinning and threaded end toward the center. Do you meant to hold it with the threaded end pointing up and pulling the string?
#4
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From: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
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Nothing that civilised. Tie the string to whichever end you've managed to get the grease in at and whirl the bloody thing around your head, making sure to avoid cracking anybody about the head or body with it. That'll get some of the grease from the end you put it in to the bearing at the other end. I've done that, and can confirm it works.
#5
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Nothing that civilised. Tie the string to whichever end you've managed to get the grease in at and whirl the bloody thing around your head, making sure to avoid cracking anybody about the head or body with it. That'll get some of the grease from the end you put it in to the bearing at the other end. I've done that, and can confirm it works.
#6
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For any future mechanic attempting to service WECO pedals, the information presented in this thread is incorrect.
These WECO pedals can be serviced. To remove the dust cap, use a screwdriver as a wedge between the cap and pedal body, then tap gently with a hammer.
The pedal seems to have the same internals as pedals marked as WECO B803.
10 mm locknut - lock washer - 14(?)mm cone - caged bearing - pedal body - caged bearing - axle
I can't attach image on this post, but you can find it here, just replace (dot) with dot.
ibb (dot) co/sjqBp3v
Edit: If possible, please help by replying to this thread with the image attached to preserve it for the future.
These WECO pedals can be serviced. To remove the dust cap, use a screwdriver as a wedge between the cap and pedal body, then tap gently with a hammer.
The pedal seems to have the same internals as pedals marked as WECO B803.
10 mm locknut - lock washer - 14(?)mm cone - caged bearing - pedal body - caged bearing - axle
I can't attach image on this post, but you can find it here, just replace (dot) with dot.
ibb (dot) co/sjqBp3v
Edit: If possible, please help by replying to this thread with the image attached to preserve it for the future.
Last edited by Pedal_Fix; 09-30-23 at 11:01 AM. Reason: A plea in search for someone who can to post the image in the thread.
#7
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