I'm outfitting a bike with some new parts, including a new bottom bracket (square taper). I realize that I'm going to require a 20- or 32- tooth tool to remove it - no problem. However, I'd like to make future maintenance easier. Can I replace my new bracket cups and retrofit the BB with something more user friendly (i.e. something that doesn't require a specialized tool)?

I originally considered some alternatives (Hollowtech 2 and Octalink), but I'm having a difficult time justifying a 3x price bump for a (theoretical?) performance gain and user-friendly outfit - considering I'm a recreational rider.

How can square-taper bottom brackets and cranksets be more user-friendly? The author of one YT video mentioned after-market self-extracting crank bolts (from the 70s). Surely there must be something much more awesome 40 years later.

With the tool, they are user friendly. It's just part of the cost of living. Or, you could take the bike to the LBS and have them do it, thereby saving the cost of a tool. Take your pick. bk

The tool can be had for $17 or less. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Shim.../dp/B001A0AIAG It can be driven with a 3/8 square drive or 2 different-sized wrenches. Sounds pretty user-friendly to me.

Hollowtech II external bearings require their own specific installation/removal tool. Park and Shimano both make them and neither are very expensive. Octalink bottom brackets (aka HollowTech, no II) use the same splined installation/removal tool as Shimano's older square taper UNXX series of cartridges.

Self-extracting bolts have been around for decades but only remove the crank arms from the bottom bracket spindle and work on square taper, Octalink and ISIS cranks. You still need a specific tool or tools to remove the bottom bracket itself.

The only cups I know of that don't need specialized tools are bra cups and coffee cups. Whatever BB you buy will need a specific tool, and as others said, it's just the cost of doing business.

Another alternative, if you live near a bicycle co-op is to join, and use their workspace and tools. Some people and bike clubs also have informal tool share co-ops where people pool their cash to buy some of the relatively costly, but not used every day tools such as a derailleur alignment gauge.

Considering the bb and crank as a whole, the new external cup system is more user friendly than square taper or octalink. This is mostly due to the ease of crankarm removal but the bb cup tool also has a better, more positive interface with the cups.

You dont have to buy your own tools if you pay the Bike Shop to do the Job.

the above external BB tool .. installs best with a 1/2" drive Torque wrench..

Exactly!

Always, though, always grease the spindle or can get frozen in place.

Any high school boy would take issue with this statement.

Ok, that's settled. The tools cost less than a trip to the bike shop or annual co-op dues.

Traditional notched BB lockring only requires a hammer and a screwdriver, in a pinch...

Requires a fair bit of technique though, to avoid causing damage.

On a side note. I made my first bike shop repair purchase. II only managed to remove one of my BB cups. The non-drive side cup was rusted pretty firmly in place and no degreaser helped. From what I read it seemed like my options were limited, and each alternative option came with an inherent risk of damaging the frame and/or the threads. I didn't feel comfortable using a hacksaw or a blow torch. Did I do the right thing and exhaust most reasonable techniques or could I have done anything differently? The BB used a regular 20-cog cup tool - the cups were metal and the tool barely fits in there.

Would greasing my threads annually prevent this disaster from re-occuring?

I also arranged to have the upper and lower headset cups removed from the frame. I tried to chisel them out, without any luck. The previous owner attempted to paint (or did a piss poor job of touching it up) the frame and the headset cups appeared to be painted into the frame.

Since I'm rebuilding this bike I'd like to ensure future maintenance is much more user friendly. I was planning on l

Annual regreasing shouldn't be needed unless you routinely ride in bad weather but heavy greasing when you install the cups is needed. An alternative is to wrap the cup threads in a couple of layers of "Plumbers" Teflon tape prior to installation. It seals against all water incursion and makes the cups easy to remove later on.

You should secure the bb cup removal/installation tool firmly in place so it won't slip under torque. For a square taper bb, get an M8x1.0 mm (1.0 mm thread pitch, not the more common 1.25 mm) bolt about 40 mm long and thread it through the tool and into the hole at the end of the spindle. For a hollow spindle (Octalink or ISIS) use a qr skewer to lock the tool in place.

Thanks HR.

After doing some further reading I'm confused about the requirement of using torque wrenches for installing the bottom bracket and crankset. To further compound this, I'm confused about the use of grease. Some threads I read indicated that torque specs imply no, or little grease.

1. Do I need a torque wrench in order to install a crankset or bottom bracket or can I just tighten it manually.
2. Are torque specifications relative to the amount of grease used on the threads?
3. Since this is my first BB job, would I be safer leaving this job to a bike mechanic?\
4. Can I just purchase any torque wrench off eBay or Amazon or does it need to be a bike-specific torque wrench? (some users recommended the Ritchey and Park Tools wrenches).

Many of the threads I read seemed to indicate that torque wrenches are only really necessary when dealing with carbon components, but every once in a while someone will chime in and contradict this. Since this is my first BB job, and I don't really have a way to gauge correct tension. I feel like I'm epically failing at this DIY. OTH, I'd rather fail if the other alternative is damaging the bike, components, or having an accident due to improperly installed equipment (which would ultimately bring me back to the mechanic as well).

Torque wrenches are very useful for bottom bracket and crank arm installation since the recommended torque values are much higher than most installers would provide without their guidance. And, no there are no bike specific brands. Craftsman torque wrenches from Sears are fine and even those from Harbor Freight are adequate. Beam-types are cheaper and more rugged.

The recommendation for using a torque wrench on carbon parts is to avoid too much torque for the small bolts used in their installation. In the case of bottom brackets and crank arms they assure enough torque.

My impression is that you are reading a lot of information, some of it seems contradictory,
and it is confusing you as a first time BB installer. Welcome to the internet.

If you stop and consider for a minute or two that your BB and the crank arms that attach
to them are pretty high load areas on your bike (you push down on the pedals with some
of the largest muscles in your body, and sometimes you actually stand up and apply full
body weight), you'll better grasp why both the cup interface with the shell, and the
crank arm interface with the spindle need to be torqued down relatively tightly. Thus the
need for a tool that provides more leverage than your hands.

Having said that, you will encounter much conflicting opinion on grease/no grease, and
the importance of an exact torque. I personally always grease or use anti seize on anything
threaded on a bike that i assemble. I usually leave the taper faces on the shaft dry, but
have been known to grease those too, if there is an issue with use in very wet or otherwise
corrosive conditions..........it really does not seem to make much difference. I also grease
the threads on the crank bolts........like I said, every threaded interface.

I have several torque wrenches and never use them for this. I pull the cups as tight into the
threads as I can with a sealed unit BB, without destroying them.........often one or both are
plastic now, so stripping it is a potential problem.

I honestly don't know anyone who uses a torque wrench for a standard square taper BB, but
I do use something for external bearing cups where bearing preload, or excessive bearing load
might come up as an issue. Again, I have a personal bias against external bearing cup systems,
both because of the costs (usually higher) and the issues that can present with spindle length
and chainline.

Mostly, try not to overthink this.......and if you feel any looseness at all when you are pedaling
around, stop, determine the source, and retighten everything. Most damage happens when
people ride around on them loose.

I always use a torque wrench on crank installation. without the torque wrench I never torqued it enough. and that can cause problems with crank loosening and ruining the cranks.

........luckily, I don't know you.