Quill Stem Length
#1
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Quill Stem Length
I would like to replace my present 2.22 cm quill stem with a longer one. When the spec says it is 130 mm, what is that measurement? Is that the length that can safely extend outside frame?
#2
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
That measurement is the distance from the center of the quill's tightening bolt to the center of the handlebar clamp. It tells you how far out the handlebars will be, not how high. The length of the quill itself is typically not given.
There are quill stems with longer quills and here is one source:
https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/st1.htm
There are quill stems with longer quills and here is one source:
https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/st1.htm
#3
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
If you want to raise the stem because you are having a hard time reaching the bars the first step is to make sure the saddle is in the right fore-aft position, then to consider a shorter stem. Raising the stem should be left until after you have addressed the other two. Taller stems are typically shorter also, so you could end up overcompensating and thereby put a lot of weight on the saddle and rear wheel.
#5
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
There's a bit of fudge room on the max height lines, so if the bars are at the right height, and the line is exposed "a bit", such as 1/4" or less you're OK. But don't push the fudge limit, because one key issue is that the stem extends below the last thread on the fork (typically about 2"). If the stem ends at a thread, there's a high likelihood that the flexing that normally occurs will cause the fork to fail that the tread lined up with the end of the stem.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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That measurement is the distance from the center of the quill's tightening bolt to the center of the handlebar clamp. It tells you how far out the handlebars will be, not how high. The length of the quill itself is typically not given. There are quill stems with longer quills and here is one source:
https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/st1.htm
https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/st1.htm
There are many less expensive tall stems for quill bikes, admittedly most arean't nearly as pretty. Here is a quick pick in the $17 delivered price range. Not pushing it on him, but it gives OP a range of product depending on the budget available. Ebay will have many others also, probably starting in the $12 range for plain steel ones...
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel-...ll+stem+taller
/K
#7
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
There's a bit of fudge room on the max height lines, so if the bars are at the right height, and the line is exposed "a bit", such as 1/4" or less you're OK. But don't push the fudge limit, because one key issue is that the stem extends below the last thread on the fork (typically about 2"). If the stem ends at a thread, there's a high likelihood that the flexing that normally occurs will cause the fork to fail that the tread lined up with the end of the stem.
#8
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I agree, but I hope I made it clear that it was very limited fudge room, and not to be abused.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
I'm guessing you have a 130mm forward (horizontal-ish) extension. This will be difficult to replicate if you want a longer quill (vertical), unless you want to go spendy with a Nitto (as HillRider linked from Rivendell Bicycles), or Salsa, both pictured here:


You also should check bar clamp diameter. Most pre-early-2000s flat bars were 25.4mm, most pre-early-2000s road bars were 26.0mm (though some 25.4mm and a few other odd sizes like 26.4mm Cinelli bars). If you need 25.4mm clamp and you can afford to go a bit shorter on the forward (horizontal) reach, Nashbar has a 110mm up-angled bar for $11. Note that the 110mm is the length of the stem extension itself, but proportionally it is rising vertically more than pointing forward.
You also should check bar clamp diameter. Most pre-early-2000s flat bars were 25.4mm, most pre-early-2000s road bars were 26.0mm (though some 25.4mm and a few other odd sizes like 26.4mm Cinelli bars). If you need 25.4mm clamp and you can afford to go a bit shorter on the forward (horizontal) reach, Nashbar has a 110mm up-angled bar for $11. Note that the 110mm is the length of the stem extension itself, but proportionally it is rising vertically more than pointing forward.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#10
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Here's a nice tool to determine the change in handlebar height and reach, between two stems: https://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
For a quill stem, "spacers" will be the exposed amount of quill.
For a quill stem, "spacers" will be the exposed amount of quill.
#11
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From: Minnesota/Arizona and between
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Spouse needed a longer quill stem and we never found anything that made him happy. He ended up with a quill stem extender, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo-...owViewpoints=0
I did have to buy a long allen key to tighten the bolt. And lucky for him his brake and derailleur cables were long enough to handle the extra height of the bars. You might have to recable one or the other.
I did have to buy a long allen key to tighten the bolt. And lucky for him his brake and derailleur cables were long enough to handle the extra height of the bars. You might have to recable one or the other.
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