troublesome 9S 105 RH Brifter - 2 levers stick, so won't click down
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 895
Bikes: (shortlist) Cyclops, Marinoni, Mariposa, Air Firday, Pocket Rocket Pro, NWT, SLX Fuso, Claude Pottie (France) x3, Masi Team 3v, Lemond Zurich, Bianchi OS
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 168 Post(s)
Liked 34 Times
in
27 Posts
troublesome 9S 105 RH Brifter - 2 levers stick, so won't click down
I've got a troublemaking RH 105 9S brifter.
the small inside lever doesn't click down. but not because the rachet mechanism is gummed up (I've tackled a dozen of those problems successfully with a flush, rinse, lube). In this case, if I hold the big outside lever in one hand, I can click the insider lever correctly. However, if I just try to operate the inside lever independently, the outside lever moves with it just enough that it doesn't click.
Has anyone faced and conquered this problem before?
Peter
the small inside lever doesn't click down. but not because the rachet mechanism is gummed up (I've tackled a dozen of those problems successfully with a flush, rinse, lube). In this case, if I hold the big outside lever in one hand, I can click the insider lever correctly. However, if I just try to operate the inside lever independently, the outside lever moves with it just enough that it doesn't click.
Has anyone faced and conquered this problem before?
Peter
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 895
Bikes: (shortlist) Cyclops, Marinoni, Mariposa, Air Firday, Pocket Rocket Pro, NWT, SLX Fuso, Claude Pottie (France) x3, Masi Team 3v, Lemond Zurich, Bianchi OS
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 168 Post(s)
Liked 34 Times
in
27 Posts
incredible. first time I've had zero replies on a post. must have been a crap uninteresting problem.
But, seeing how there was no advice forthcoming from BF, I persisted and did a little local research.
Malcolm of Biseagal in Toronto tells me that this lever following is a common problem with shimano RH shifters. there's normally a little bit in the mechanism there that prevents the outside lever from following the inside lever, but with age and use it wears out and fails.
no fix. toss and replace.
sigh.
But, seeing how there was no advice forthcoming from BF, I persisted and did a little local research.
Malcolm of Biseagal in Toronto tells me that this lever following is a common problem with shimano RH shifters. there's normally a little bit in the mechanism there that prevents the outside lever from following the inside lever, but with age and use it wears out and fails.
no fix. toss and replace.
sigh.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 450 Times
in
338 Posts
Before tossing those old levers, make sure there are no strands of old cable stuck in there, and spray the inner mechanism with an aerosol shot of degreaser. If that frees something up, blow out the degreaser and follow up with a shot of thin lube, like Tri-Flow.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Buffalo New York
Posts: 2,470
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Eventually things break, especially if they are old and well used. a 9 speed 105 must be over 5 years old, right? Thousands of miles on it?? If the flush doesn't help and there is no physical debris jamming it up....
now may be good time to switch to campy. They are fully re-buildable (as you probably know). all you really need is a new cassette.
now may be good time to switch to campy. They are fully re-buildable (as you probably know). all you really need is a new cassette.
__________________
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
#5
Retro Grouch
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 2,210
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
incredible. first time I've had zero replies on a post. must have been a crap uninteresting problem.
But, seeing how there was no advice forthcoming from BF, I persisted and did a little local research.
Malcolm of Biseagal in Toronto tells me that this lever following is a common problem with shimano RH shifters. there's normally a little bit in the mechanism there that prevents the outside lever from following the inside lever, but with age and use it wears out and fails.
no fix. toss and replace.
sigh.
But, seeing how there was no advice forthcoming from BF, I persisted and did a little local research.
Malcolm of Biseagal in Toronto tells me that this lever following is a common problem with shimano RH shifters. there's normally a little bit in the mechanism there that prevents the outside lever from following the inside lever, but with age and use it wears out and fails.
no fix. toss and replace.
sigh.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,547
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1529 Post(s)
Liked 718 Times
in
510 Posts
I have some 9s Ultegra brifters that had this problem.
I gather it's caused by wear, or maybe it's due to springs getting tired, or both.
In any case, I have sorted out this issue, at least mostly; not like new, but good enough for the lever to work consistently. Problem is, it requires full disassembly...
If you're game for that (you can start your research by clicking on the STI overhaul link in my tag), then it's just a matter of tweaking the brake/shift lever's return spring (the one that returns it from a shift); that needs to be stronger to prevent it moving with the flipper and catching, jamming the shift. You may need to tweak the flipper's return spring to be weaker, too.
I gather it's caused by wear, or maybe it's due to springs getting tired, or both.
In any case, I have sorted out this issue, at least mostly; not like new, but good enough for the lever to work consistently. Problem is, it requires full disassembly...
If you're game for that (you can start your research by clicking on the STI overhaul link in my tag), then it's just a matter of tweaking the brake/shift lever's return spring (the one that returns it from a shift); that needs to be stronger to prevent it moving with the flipper and catching, jamming the shift. You may need to tweak the flipper's return spring to be weaker, too.