Headset Leaking Brown Gunk
#1
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Headset Leaking Brown Gunk
My FSA IS-2 supposedly sealed bearing threadless headset has been leaking some brown liquid out around the top of the head tube. It looks like thick rusty water, but could be a dilute grease or something. The frame is titanium and the fork is carbon, so neither of them should be rusting. The headset bearings seem perfectly smooth and solid. The bike is not quite a year old. I haven't been riding in the rain or wet, other than the occasional puddle. Could be sweat, I suppose, though I don't know how it would get that much inside the head tube. There is enough of the liquid leaking out that it was dripping off the frame onto my knee and leg. I suppose I should disassemble the headset and see what's going on inside there, but this seemed rather odd to me. It doesn't seem like there should be any liquid inside there to run out. Has anyone else seen this? Should I be worried about the bearings?
#5
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Very few (if any) headset makers use brown grease, so you're seeing a mix of grease and water, and the brown color is because of rust. One reason that many bike mechanics prefer a lighter colored grease is that they can use the color as an indicator of condition, ie dirt or rust.
If it's coming off the lower bearing, you're seeing the result of water spray off the front wheel getting blasted into the lower headset assembly. This is common on some headsets that lack a decent seal or long skirt there. The bearings seal isn't adequate to keep water out, so if it's sprayed into the area, it'll get to the bearing.
You can improve things, but how you do it depends on the headset. On some, you can fit a large rubber band (I use the one that comes on Broccoli) around the lower headset assembly so it closes below the crown races. On others, a disc pressed on below the crown race reduces spray entry, and on some headsets you can trap an O-ring between the crown race and heat tube or bearing skirt.
Either way, you're choice it to improvise a better seal, or drop the fork, and inspect, and grease the lower bearing every 6 months or so.
If it's coming off the lower bearing, you're seeing the result of water spray off the front wheel getting blasted into the lower headset assembly. This is common on some headsets that lack a decent seal or long skirt there. The bearings seal isn't adequate to keep water out, so if it's sprayed into the area, it'll get to the bearing.
You can improve things, but how you do it depends on the headset. On some, you can fit a large rubber band (I use the one that comes on Broccoli) around the lower headset assembly so it closes below the crown races. On others, a disc pressed on below the crown race reduces spray entry, and on some headsets you can trap an O-ring between the crown race and heat tube or bearing skirt.
Either way, you're choice it to improvise a better seal, or drop the fork, and inspect, and grease the lower bearing every 6 months or so.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Bikes: Niner RLT 9 RDO, Niner RLT9 Alloy
You can improve things, but how you do it depends on the headset. On some, you can fit a large rubber band (I use the one that comes on Broccoli) around the lower headset assembly so it closes below the crown races. On others, a disc pressed on below the crown race reduces spray entry, and on some headsets you can trap an O-ring between the crown race and heat tube or bearing skirt.
Either way, you're choice it to improvise a better seal, or drop the fork, and inspect, and grease the lower bearing every 6 months or so.
Either way, you're choice it to improvise a better seal, or drop the fork, and inspect, and grease the lower bearing every 6 months or so.
Also, I believe a common trick in the MTB/cyclocross community is to take a section of a large-diameter inner tube and stretch it around the lower fork crown and head tube interface.
#8
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
Sealed bearing is sometimes a term of convenience rather than functionally accurate, often misused/misapplied to cartridge bearings. The inner tube trick works well, and it's good for all-weather commuters also - I used that back in the 70's. Put a thin layer of grease on the inside of the tube for better sealing.
#9
Very few (if any) headset makers use brown grease, so you're seeing a mix of grease and water, and the brown color is because of rust. One reason that many bike mechanics prefer a lighter colored grease is that they can use the color as an indicator of condition, ie dirt or rust.
#11
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Thanks for all the suggestions. In response to some of the questions:
I believe the steerer tube is carbon, not absolutely positive. Guess I'll have to take it apart to look.
I store it in the garage, so it is "inside" out of the rain, but not in heated or cooled space. Could be condensation I suppose.
The brown discharge is coming only from the upper end of the head tube, not the bottom end.
Yes, it is an integrated headset (FSA IS-2).
And yes, the question about if the fork is carbon and the frame is titanium, where would rust come from, is exactly what I was wondering. The only steel in there should be the bearings. Can't imagine they would produce enough rust for it to be running down my leg.
I believe the steerer tube is carbon, not absolutely positive. Guess I'll have to take it apart to look.
I store it in the garage, so it is "inside" out of the rain, but not in heated or cooled space. Could be condensation I suppose.
The brown discharge is coming only from the upper end of the head tube, not the bottom end.
Yes, it is an integrated headset (FSA IS-2).
And yes, the question about if the fork is carbon and the frame is titanium, where would rust come from, is exactly what I was wondering. The only steel in there should be the bearings. Can't imagine they would produce enough rust for it to be running down my leg.
#12
#14
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: East Tennessee
Bikes: 2002 Lightspeed Classic; 2010 Pedalforce RS
I had exactly this problem on my Litespeed with an aluminum steerer. The top bearings were shot and lots of brown crap coming out. Not sure why the top, I rarely ride in the rain or wash the bike with a hose. The bottom set were indexed a bit, but in reasonable shape otherwise.
#16
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I finally took the head set apart to see what was happening. The brown appeared to be rust, which was coming from the outside of the housing of the sealed bearing. The bearing itself seemed fine: smooth, tight and sealed, no excess play, nothing loose. The outside of it, where it seats in the fork, was lightly covered with rust, to the point that I could not read, or even find, the etched labeling on it. The stuff oozing out the top of the head tube seemed to be a rust colored slurry of the assembly grease, rust, and sweat. There was a lot of scale inside the stem and spacers, presumably dried from sweat dripping on the top of the stem and running down inside. The steerer tube is indeed carbon fiber, so the only steel anywhere in the head tube was the bearing housing. Comparing the top bearing to the bottom bearing, the top bearing housing was much rustier than the bottom one, again presumably from sweat getting to it. The assembly grease on the bottom bearing was not rust colored. It was the translucent traditional "grease color". I'm thinking maybe I should do something to seal the pre-load cap so it doesn't collect sweat so much.
Last edited by biking809070; 07-02-13 at 07:57 PM.
#18
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Early on in this thread, I suggested that the seepage was rust stained grease, and mentioned that rust colored greases aren't used on bikes.
I only bring it up again to remind folks that if you see rust stains, don't look for complicated explanations. Rust stains usually mean rust.
I only bring it up again to remind folks that if you see rust stains, don't look for complicated explanations. Rust stains usually mean rust.
__________________
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.






