Well, that's odd.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 66
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Well, that's odd.
I recently upgraded my bike from a triple to a double without changing the bottom bracket, which was sized for a triple.
Now, if I am in the largest cog in the back and in the front, when I pedal backward the chain will actually shift down from the top.
I'm guessing that isn't normal and my bottom bracket is too wide. The drive train is completely silent when pushing forward, however.
Do I need to change my bottom bracket?
Now, if I am in the largest cog in the back and in the front, when I pedal backward the chain will actually shift down from the top.
I'm guessing that isn't normal and my bottom bracket is too wide. The drive train is completely silent when pushing forward, however.
Do I need to change my bottom bracket?
#2
Don from Austin Texas
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,211
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Texas
Bikes: Schwinn S25 "department store crap" FS MTB, home-made CF 26" hybrid, CF road bike with straight bar, various wierd frankenbikes
I recently upgraded my bike from a triple to a double without changing the bottom bracket, which was sized for a triple.
Now, if I am in the largest cog in the back and in the front, when I pedal backward the chain will actually shift down from the top.
I'm guessing that isn't normal and my bottom bracket is too wide. The drive train is completely silent when pushing forward, however.
Do I need to change my bottom bracket?
Now, if I am in the largest cog in the back and in the front, when I pedal backward the chain will actually shift down from the top.
I'm guessing that isn't normal and my bottom bracket is too wide. The drive train is completely silent when pushing forward, however.
Do I need to change my bottom bracket?
Don in Austion
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Stick a yardstick between your front chainrings. Notice where it bisects the rear cassette. If it hits near the middle, you're good. If it hits close to the smallest rear cogs, your BB is probably a little too wide.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If the bike never did this when on the middle of the triple, then you probably changed the chainline when you upgraded. Or to look at it another way, had you "upgraded" by simply removing the granny you wouldn't be here.
So it's fairly safe to conclude that the new cranks had different spindle offset that the ones you removed, and both chainrings are more outboard than your old middle and outer. So, even without measuring, you need a shorter spindle.
You can get a sense of how much shorter by looking at your chainring/chainstay clearance which is typically only a few millimeters. Or you can do a proper chainline measurement to determine exactly where you want the crank to end up.
So it's fairly safe to conclude that the new cranks had different spindle offset that the ones you removed, and both chainrings are more outboard than your old middle and outer. So, even without measuring, you need a shorter spindle.
You can get a sense of how much shorter by looking at your chainring/chainstay clearance which is typically only a few millimeters. Or you can do a proper chainline measurement to determine exactly where you want the crank to end up.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Over the years spindles have gotten shorter, with more offset built into the crank arms. This improves rigidity, and olse gives some extra ankle clearance by way of the curved crank arms. But it means that a newer crank on an older spindle will be too far out, and vice versa.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 07-22-13 at 11:57 AM.
#9
Zip tie Karen
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 1,546
From: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
FSA has a customer service number. You can ask them for the correct spindle length for your specific crankset. There's no reason to run an incorrect chainline.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 2
From: boston, ma
127 is quite long for a modern crank. i am guessing you need a 110 or around that range. i am talking in general here. consult the owners manual for what you need for proper chainline.





