bike suspension forks
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 539
Likes: 2
From: Novi, MI
Bikes: Franken-mountain bike, mid-90s Performance TR1000, 1990 Cannondale ST400
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
hi sorry but what is the relevant information i am new to all this mountin bike stuff. and sorry but could answered abit nicer by tellinh me what the relevant information is and i dont have money to just go and spend on stuff thats why asked
#6
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
where did you Buy the bike , is a good start.
If you have no Money , then walk to places for Jobs ,
where you can get the money to buy stuff that needs work
Or is this just a Troll ..
sell the computer to get the money to fix the bike.
If you have no Money , then walk to places for Jobs ,
where you can get the money to buy stuff that needs work
Or is this just a Troll ..
sell the computer to get the money to fix the bike.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-16-13 at 01:43 PM.
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
i use my bike to travel to apply for work im jobless ye im looking for work have been for ages and i need my pc as i do courses online and do android stuff yes im a geek and am looking to take up a new hobby i buy everything pre owned i wish i had a job to support my family but unforntly i dont because i live in a crap area where no jobs
#10
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
i am not a troll i am being serious about my forks
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
well the forks dont go down like normal front suspension dont its like its stuck in one place tried putting wd40 around to lube it hasnt worked and bike shops by me try to scam you off for money themselves
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 539
Likes: 2
From: Novi, MI
Bikes: Franken-mountain bike, mid-90s Performance TR1000, 1990 Cannondale ST400
With the Zoom, you actually had to pop off the plastic caps at the tops of the stanchions, and get a really really long extension bar so you could get a hex bit down into the stanchions. You could then loosen an allen screw inside each stanchion with a ratchet in order to be able to separate the lowers from the stanchions. It then took a vise, a wood block, 3 lb sledge and a good bit of creative pounding to get the lowers off. I cleaned all the guts up as best I could, greased everything and put it back together.
It was then that I discovered just how crappy the springs in the fork were. Now that they had a bit of lubrication and were able to move, I damn near bottomed out the fork when I got on the bike, not to mention when I went over bumps. In fact, I think what was keeping it from bottoming out before (when it was still kind of working before locking up) was the resistance between the stanchions and lowers that existed before I cleaned and lubed everything. I'm a pretty big dude, but it was still kind of surprising. In the end, I had maybe 20 mm of (very stiff because the springs were nearly fully compressed) suspension travel. I didn't wait for the fork to lock back up, like I'm sure it would have if I had continued riding it. I found a decently priced coil fork, bought it, and never looked back. I think the Zoom fork got recycled with a pile of old car parts last time I cleaned out my garage.
So, I guess the moral of the story is, you're likely better off getting a new fork. Then again, I'm not personally acquainted with the particular model you have, so I could be wrong. From what I see on Zoom's web page though, it looks like all their forks are variations on a theme.
#15
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
I'm not familiar with that particular model, I used to have a Zoom 386 on the first iteration of my Frankenbike, and it locked up just like yours did. Frankly it was a piece of crap before it locked up, but at the time I didn't have much cash to play with so I decided to give freeing it up a whack (pun intended). Mine tore down essentially backwards from the relatively nicer fork I've got on the bike now, which has easily accessible allen screws at the bottom of each lower.
With the Zoom, you actually had to pop off the plastic caps at the tops of the stanchions, and get a really really long extension bar so you could get a hex bit down into the stanchions. You could then loosen an allen screw inside each stanchion with a ratchet in order to be able to separate the lowers from the stanchions. It then took a vise, a wood block, 3 lb sledge and a good bit of creative pounding to get the lowers off. I cleaned all the guts up as best I could, greased everything and put it back together.
It was then that I discovered just how crappy the springs in the fork were. Now that they had a bit of lubrication and were able to move, I damn near bottomed out the fork when I got on the bike, not to mention when I went over bumps. In fact, I think what was keeping it from bottoming out before (when it was still kind of working before locking up) was the resistance between the stanchions and lowers that existed before I cleaned and lubed everything. I'm a pretty big dude, but it was still kind of surprising. In the end, I had maybe 20 mm of (very stiff because the springs were nearly fully compressed) suspension travel. I didn't wait for the fork to lock back up, like I'm sure it would have if I had continued riding it. I found a decently priced coil fork, bought it, and never looked back. I think the Zoom fork got recycled with a pile of old car parts last time I cleaned out my garage.
So, I guess the moral of the story is, you're likely better off getting a new fork. Then again, I'm not personally acquainted with the particular model you have, so I could be wrong. From what I see on Zoom's web page though, it looks like all their forks are variations on a theme.
With the Zoom, you actually had to pop off the plastic caps at the tops of the stanchions, and get a really really long extension bar so you could get a hex bit down into the stanchions. You could then loosen an allen screw inside each stanchion with a ratchet in order to be able to separate the lowers from the stanchions. It then took a vise, a wood block, 3 lb sledge and a good bit of creative pounding to get the lowers off. I cleaned all the guts up as best I could, greased everything and put it back together.
It was then that I discovered just how crappy the springs in the fork were. Now that they had a bit of lubrication and were able to move, I damn near bottomed out the fork when I got on the bike, not to mention when I went over bumps. In fact, I think what was keeping it from bottoming out before (when it was still kind of working before locking up) was the resistance between the stanchions and lowers that existed before I cleaned and lubed everything. I'm a pretty big dude, but it was still kind of surprising. In the end, I had maybe 20 mm of (very stiff because the springs were nearly fully compressed) suspension travel. I didn't wait for the fork to lock back up, like I'm sure it would have if I had continued riding it. I found a decently priced coil fork, bought it, and never looked back. I think the Zoom fork got recycled with a pile of old car parts last time I cleaned out my garage.
So, I guess the moral of the story is, you're likely better off getting a new fork. Then again, I'm not personally acquainted with the particular model you have, so I could be wrong. From what I see on Zoom's web page though, it looks like all their forks are variations on a theme.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 539
Likes: 2
From: Novi, MI
Bikes: Franken-mountain bike, mid-90s Performance TR1000, 1990 Cannondale ST400
i use my bike to travel to apply for work im jobless ye im looking for work have been for ages and i need my pc as i do courses online and do android stuff yes im a geek and am looking to take up a new hobby i buy everything pre owned i wish i had a job to support my family but unforntly i dont because i live in a crap area where no jobs
well the forks dont go down like normal front suspension dont its like its stuck in one place tried putting wd40 around to lube it hasnt worked and bike shops by me try to scam you off for money themselves
#17
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Brownhills uk
Bikes: only 1 first project bike
Then I doubt you need a suspension fork, if you're only riding on roads to get to job interviews and such. Why not try and find a solid fork to replace the Zoom? Granted it'll look a tad silly on a low end full suspension frame, but it'll weigh much less than the fork you have now. I think buying a decent bike should be an end goal, however, once you find steady income.
If you do decide to try disassembling, cleaning and re-lubing your fork, DO NOT use WD-40 to lubricate it.
If you do decide to try disassembling, cleaning and re-lubing your fork, DO NOT use WD-40 to lubricate it.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 539
Likes: 2
From: Novi, MI
Bikes: Franken-mountain bike, mid-90s Performance TR1000, 1990 Cannondale ST400
Hey no problem at all, two years ago I was exactly where you are now, trying to put together a bike from scrap parts in my garage. I think an eventual goal should be to invest in something a little nicer. Even if it's an older used name brand bike that you find on the local classifieds, it will ride much better and provide a more enjoyable experience to you. Good luck with the job search!
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
If this is this is the bike you have https://www.bikes2udirect.com/B1111.html?specs=1, which is as you have described it, would look at the cost of replacing the whole bike, vs the cost of the forks, as what you have is barely above BSO level, and replacing the forks will not be cost effective vs buying a complete bike. A basic set of Suntour forks will cost you around £65 + fitting if you can't do this yourself.
For the forks that you currently have, they either work, or don't, if looking to attempt to get them repaired, the cost will be similar, if not more than new forks as suggested above.
For the forks that you currently have, they either work, or don't, if looking to attempt to get them repaired, the cost will be similar, if not more than new forks as suggested above.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RoachToast
Classic & Vintage
1
07-15-13 01:14 PM





