arangov3

So I got this bike in a trade but I have ran into some trouble and don't have answers for all my problems yet.

Problem one
When I pedal the chain tries to skip in the rear I originally thought the hanger was bent but the chain has two links that are sticking to each which lifts the chain off the rear cassette. Do I have to replace the chain or can I just let the chain sit in some pb blast or maybe clean it off with some acetone. If I do have to replace the chain is that all I'm replacing or is there more? Also what chain do I get and is there a thinner chain I can get to have less rubbing at the front derailer.

Problem two
Brakes are not springing back off the rims I just don't know how to keep it from sticking.

Problem three
There is play in the front stem I don't know if there is something missing inside or it was put together wrong or is just not tight enough. What do I do and how do I fix it I would like to make everything right so I don't have to touch it again.

Overall I'm happy with the bike I got in a trade just want to make sure it is safe because this is what my girlfriend will be riding and I will be riding it to work when it snows so I just want it to be 100%. LBS is out of the question just because I'm more than capable of fixing a bike just need to be told what is the right way to go about things.

Thanks guys so far I've really enjoyed my time on the forum it is just strange being a noob but I hope to be able to contribute eventually.

bikeman715

Problem 1 ) https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ct-5-ct-6-ct-7
Problem 2 )https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ice-and-repair
Problem 3 )https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ice-and-repair

FBinNY 

The chain needs oil, and some massaging of the stiff links in your fingers until they're free enough not to skip. Then a ride around the block will work them free the rest of the way. Keep your chain oiled, and you won't have this problem, which is usually caused by rust.

Likewise with the brakes, the pivots could be dry and possibly a bit rustbound, but here you'll need a penetrating oul, then work them loose. This is the shortcut method, and may or may not solve the problem. If not then go to a net site like the Park one for brake service.

The front wheel probably needs a bearing adjusted. I say probably because some hubs don't have adjustable bearings, and there's no way of knowing what the prior owner did or didn't do. Given what we see elsewhere, it's a safe bet that the bike hasn't seen much lubrication, so you might want to fieldstrip the front hub, and service it. search adjusting hub cones, and greasing front hub on the net for tutorials. The two jobs are related, so the latter will include the former.

arangov3

I think I used the wrong word for problem 3 the headset has some play in it which I think I found what is needed to be done to fix it.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service

Is there any kind of rebuild kit that I have to use or is it just universal? This is my biggest worry because I hate to damage something and I have the majority of the tools needed for this things but I want to see if I can find a place where I can rent some tools because I don't think it would be a good idea to use my hydraulic press on the headset.

cny-bikeman

If you're "more than capable" of fixing it then all you need to do is refer to sheldonbrown.com and parktool.com/blog as primary sources, Google and Youtube for additional guidance, and add simple observation and logic to solve the problems you describe.

For example, you say the brakes are not springing back. Presumably you understand that a spring pushes them outward, and for them not to move readily something is resisting the spring's pressure. The parts rub together at the pivots, the cable has to move through the housing to allow the arms to move outward, and the lever has to allow the cable to move. So the problem has to be at the brake itself (caliper) the cable/housing, or the lever. You just have to find out which one it is and correct it. Technically one would not have to know anything about bike repair to fix it, but the guidance helps greatly.

arangov3

I'm just looking for the simple things that one may look over when working on a bike because what I may do may make no sense at all to someone who has been working on bikes but to someone who spends most their time working on cars(me) they would see nothing wrong with what is being done.

cny-bikeman

No idea what you mean. When I work on something mechanical besides bikes I use pretty much the same problem-solving process as on bikes. I just use references when I don't understand how something is removed, torqued, or what is proper adjustment.

As for the headset, there's no kit required - the only thing that you will hopefully need to replace (and overhaul is optional in the first place) is ball bearings, easily obtained. If parts are badly worn then generally the entire headset is replaced.

arangov3

With there being play in the headset an overhaul would still be optional? Whenever I see play I've always seen it as a sign of concern but if it doesn't need to be touched at all that is fine with me but is there an opportunity of the bike frame itself being damaged from the stem being able to move freely?

FBinNY 

If you have a threadless headset, it's super easy to adjust and all you need is a 5mm hex key -- the most commonly used tool on a bike .

mrodgers

Just FYI with problem #1 and the rusted stuck chain link, my oldest daughter took over my bike (which I wasn't using) last year. She left it out in the rain in the fall and then it was put in the garage over winter (not to worry too much, it was and still is a junk Walmart bike.) This spring she wanted to ride it and told me she couldn't get the pedals to move. The chain was completely frozen up the whole way around, around the chainrings, through the derailleur, around the back gear. I literally could not get it to budge with all the strength I could trying to bend the chain that was between the front and rear gears.

I soaked it down with PB Blaster and went back to it the next day. I was able to work it a bit with my hands and gave it another soak. The 3rd day I was able to spin the crank and the chain was loose again all except for 3 links. I could get on and pedal but the chain jumped on those 3 links. Soaking them again and riding it loosened up the last 3 links and it is still the chain that I started riding daily for 12 miles on July 31st.

Perhaps not the best idea for me to ride it with this chain, but it's all I've got until next spring when I may be able to get myself a good bike if I keep up with the riding.

cny-bikeman

Unlike car bearings the ones on a bike can easily be adjusted, so they do not necessarily need to be replaced or even overhauled when there is play. The frame is unlikely to be damaged by a loose headset, although there is a remote possibility that a given loose headset could have been caused by frame damage (collision). The stem being able to move is not the same as the headset moving.

AnkleWork

It is really weird to focus on the extremes while ignoring the broad middle ground where most solutions lie – not touching something versus overhauling it (?!), etc. Why not use your substantial skillz to take the headset apart, clean and inspect it, make some judgments, and proceed accordingly? No hydraulic press needed.

Maybe you should revisit the whole “LBS is out of the question” thing.

FBinNY 

Not wanting to offend you, but you say you're a noob, but have good mechanical skills, which I get as meaning you have general skills but lack bike knowledge.

So you ask a question about headset play, are told by various people that it's an easy adjustment, and referred to sites that show how. Yet you resist the advice, and speak of prior experience.

If you already know, don't ask. If you don't know and ask, don't come back and contradict the advice.

arangov3

Some times there are small things that may or may not have to be done which my be the difference between it lasting a few hours or never being touched again. I'm sure if someone gave you directions on how to do something like rebuild a turbo you could do it but if the turbine and its nut were balanced together and you didnt know that you would find out the hard way that you should have asked more questions. Before I ever touch something I always ask someone who has more experience then me for little things that may make everything 100% easier.

I did take everything apart after I found the park tools link and saw nothing wrong which I wasn't sure if something is missing or if there was something I just didnt notice so I just put it together after regressing it and like magic everything was fine. Im just here to learn thats all and would like to thank you for your advice.

arangov3

I dont take offense to anything on the Internet so please dont be discouraged to speak your mind to me.

I dont think that I was contradicting anything based on I wasnt given any useful information till post number 7 which after that I went ahead and pulled it apart saw nothing wrong so I cleaned and regressed the bearings and put everything back together to see everything come back together fine and it looks like something just wasn't seated all the way when put back together which gave room for play.

All I was looking for was the little things that are only learned from experience to save my self a little bit of time and a headache. I am not trying to step on anyones toes and seem ungrateful I'm just looking to learn from those who know better then I do.

cny-bikeman

OK, I'll take you at your word on the first statement above, because the second one pretty much indicates you are a bit ungrateful.