Last winter I put drop bars on an old hybrid I use as my winter commuter. All is great except the brakes. It had older shimano center pulls and I had a set of dura ace levers that I used. I've ridden this way since and while it stops it's just too mushy. After a recent crash where I broke a finger I found I couldn't pull enough to stop.

So (finally) here's my question - is there a straightforward, simple fix to improve braking (like better hardware)? I put kool stop pads on before last winter and adjustment is good. Thanks in advance!

arsprod, I guess this is for the H400? It originally had linear pull brakes (also called side pull cantilever or V-brakes) which have a different pull ratio than standard caliper or cantilever brakes and will require a lever with a matching pull ratio.

If the linear pull brakes were replaced with standard cantilever brake, look at Sheldon Brown's tips for adjustment.

Brad

cable pull / leverage MA is all about the pivot to work distances ,
If you put long arm V brake Calipers on the wheel, you need a long pull brake lever on the other end ..

Lower MA Cantilever brakes and short arm Mini V brakes can use a shorter pull Brake lever .


QBP 'travel agent' is a way to mix the 2, since it amplifies the cable pull, fitted onto your V brake instead of the noodle.

Bingo - v brakes with road levers (and yes this is on the h400). I just read Sheldon brown and will try to lower the yoke.

Hold on a sec, I think I'm confusing the issue (certainly myself). These brakes aren't original to the bike, got them from another. When I installed them I put the spring on the farthest out point (tightest). I notice there's a second stop on the removal side. For giggles I moved the cable over and it brings pads much closer but braking is worse. Am I trying to make something work that's not supposed to?

I would loosen the straddle cable. Then I would loosen the brake pads themselves and extend the brake arms out father. So the arms are father away from the tires than they currently are. Bring the pad clamp zone to almost the end of the brake pad post compared to now how its almost to the actual pad itself. then the straddle cable should be much lower and you might get a lot more leverage.

Huh?

Sticking with the most common usage of the words, there's no part of a V-brake AKA linear pull brake that's called a yoke, let alone one what will be easily lowered.

Cantilever brakes OTOH do have a part often referred to as a yoke, which can be easily lowered to improve leverage.

Those are canti brakes, and are supposed to work well with the same brake levers as for caliper brakes. (although I'm not too sure of some of Shimano's latest groupsets).

The spring location isn't to blame in this case, spring force is entirely dwarfed by the force you can generate by the lever. The different holes are there to make it possible to tune the return action so that both arms retract at the same rate. Some like e'm snappier. Me, I generally try to keep some spare adjustability for as long as possible.

Ah, I just realized what you meant by the 2nd stop. And no, you're not meant to use it like that.

As you've already found Sheldon, follow his piece on cantilever adjustment. Although to tinker with your setup you'd need to replace the link cable with a straddle cable - you run a separate cable from one arm to the other, then the cable coming from the lever hooks on with a yoke on the middle of that one. A bit more risk if the cable should snap, but more adjustability. Basically the flatter you run the straddle cable, the stronger(and less linear) the brake will be.

Lowered and not getting enough spring pull - these brakes are old and I'm thinking the springs are weak. I'm gonna try making a straight across yoke ala Sheldon. Stay tuned! Thx!

Dump those link wires and get yourself some straddle cables. I'd also suggest using Problem Solvers Wide Cable Carriers: https://problemsolversbike.com/produc..._cable_carrier. I put a small reflector bracket or similar item under the straddle cable to catch it and prevent it fouling the tire if the main cable should part.
Also make sure that your cable housing ends are ground or filed flat and that proper metal ferrules are installed where appropriate. Don't concern yourself too much with the return spring tension; as long as the pad does not drag on the rim you will be fine. Once you apply the brakes any imbalance will vanish.

well those are cool! Of course, all the bike shops are closed already and aren't open on sunday (I still don't get why bike shops aren't open longer on weekends). One shop open tomorrow - I'll give them a shot

arsprod, When writing about "spring pressure" are you referring to the return to non braking tension? If so this maybe adjustable by moving where the spring is anchored to the braze-on stud.

Brad

yes, and it's on the highest pressure setting

"yes, and it's on the highest pressure setting"
Disconnect the cable and check the spring action by hand, to diagnose whether cable or pivot friction is causing the problem. Springs do not usually lose tension and become "weak" unless they are heavily corroded, causing loss of material.

arsprod, While it will leave the lever a little 'floppy', it won't effect braking. I have a set on my touring bike that had/have this problem. I bent the spring end toward the the lever a bit outward to increase tension. I don't have any hope for this to be a long term fix as the spring itself is losing it's tension (SWAG) and will lose it's return force again, I just can't predict when.

Brad

Follow up - went old school, back to some old dia compe bridges I had and bought a couple bridge cables. After fiddling around with the adjustment ala Sheldon Brown and everyone's advice the brakes are excellent. Much crisper, less pressure needed, and while they're still not as snappy as the old 105 side pulls on my road bike, it's a real improvement. I'm amazed how much better this setup is than the shimano cantilever. Just more evidence that old school still works!

I'm intrigued by the problem solvers and will likely order some from amazon. Gonna ride the bike to work tomorrow for a real test. Thanks for all the help!

Aaron