Changing cables
09-12-13 | 07:30 AM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,327
Likes: 1,112
From: Roswell, GA
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Read and heed this article, paying special attention to the section regarding cable housing preparation: https://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
Consider investing in a high quality cable cutter; Park and Shimano are excellent, FELCO are top dollar but a worthwhile investment if having and using the finest tool is important to you.
A "fourth hand" tool is fairly cheap and is handy for tensioning cables while you clamp them if you do not have a helper available.
Consider investing in a high quality cable cutter; Park and Shimano are excellent, FELCO are top dollar but a worthwhile investment if having and using the finest tool is important to you.
A "fourth hand" tool is fairly cheap and is handy for tensioning cables while you clamp them if you do not have a helper available.
09-12-13 | 09:58 AM
#3
SuperGimp
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 13,346
Likes: 65
From: Whittier, CA
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix
Get a good cutter, use your existing housing as a template for your new, save the ferrules in case the new ones don't fit quite right and have fun. Some people like to put a thin layer of grease on the cables before they install them. (I've seen this stuff recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
09-12-13 | 10:02 AM
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Any mid-level of better cable and housing kit is fine. You want to make sure you have lined housing, and die-drawn stainless steel inner wires. On the brake cables, the upcost for stainless inner wires is greater, and the benefit less, so it's one feature you might scrimp on.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
09-12-13 | 11:59 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,135
Likes: 108
From: Middle of the road, NJ
IMHO, it's worth it to use better cable for both shifters and brakes.
09-12-13 | 12:15 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
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From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
If you own a Dremel-type tool and some cutoff wheels, that can be used as a replacement for housing cutters, and you can use the same cutoff wheel to dress the end of the housing as the same time. In my experience, end cutters work best for cutting cables and preventing fraying, but any sharp set of diagonal cutters will do. Just don't use any designed solely for cutting copper wiring. The jaws won't be hard enough.
09-12-13 | 12:39 PM
#7
Ancient Clydesdale
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 683
Likes: 10
From: Columbia River Gorge
Bikes: Specialized Allez Elite
not sure i'd agree with that. I rebuilt my wifes commuter and used die drawn ss cables for shifters and brakes. There was a noticable improvement in the brake function. True, anything compared to the old stuff would have been an improvement, but this was a big improvement. She came close to locking the front wheel and doing a header.
Imho, it's worth it to use better cable for both shifters and brakes.
Imho, it's worth it to use better cable for both shifters and brakes.
09-12-13 | 03:07 PM
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 587
Likes: 35
From: Southern Calif
use a Dremel-type diamond disk to finish the cut ends of the housing flat. It will look like the factory finished housing ends. Much better than a grinding wheel or housing cutter.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...scs-69657.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...scs-69657.html
