How much of a problem is rust?
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2011
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How much of a problem is rust?
I have been looking at craigslist for a decent roadbike for my 6 mile commute to school and my friend recommended this Nishiki one to me. Everything looks fine except for rust on the frame that im worried has weakened. Can rust weaken a frame?
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/4068940906.html
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/4068940906.html
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Yes rust can and will weaken a steel frame, but there's a fair degree of forgiveness. The key is the depth of the rust, so if you're seriously considering this frame you need to check it out in person. Use the auto mechanics trick of bringing an ice pick to scratch at the rust to find bottom, and/or pushing it through, which is only possible if the rust is nearly through.
One thing to consider on this bike is that the fork doesn't seem to be original to the frame. (not sure, but in that era most forks were painted to match, and replacement forks were full chrome). A replacement fork usually means a crash, so check carefully under the front ends of the down and top tubes cor any sign of buckling, and on top for stress cracks in the paint from stretching.
If your friend is knowledgeable, and advising you already, bring him along (you pick up lunch, or a few beers when you get home) to examine the bike and advise how much more it might need to be brought up to snuff.
One thing to consider on this bike is that the fork doesn't seem to be original to the frame. (not sure, but in that era most forks were painted to match, and replacement forks were full chrome). A replacement fork usually means a crash, so check carefully under the front ends of the down and top tubes cor any sign of buckling, and on top for stress cracks in the paint from stretching.
If your friend is knowledgeable, and advising you already, bring him along (you pick up lunch, or a few beers when you get home) to examine the bike and advise how much more it might need to be brought up to snuff.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
rebmeM roineS

Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#6
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Thanks for the replies guys. I was hoping I could just sand it down and spray it. Would rather get a bike thats not going to be a project will this one need much fixing?https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/4069231449.html
#7
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will this one need much fixing?https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/4069231449.html
#8
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
That is indeed a replacement fork, and the rusted area (caused by blistered paint) at and behind the top tube lug tells me the bike was in a head on collision. I was going to say the frame was not much affected, but I decided to check. The pic below has a black line next to the head tube that is parallel to the seat tube.

These bikes were generally built with parallel tubes or close to it, so you can see that the head tube is canted more vertical than it probably was originally. That will change the handling somewhat and also reduce the clearance between your toes and the front wheel. I would say you need to ride it and see if it pulls to one side and if the handling and toe clearance is acceptable. Otherwise it's a decent bike, but one other thing can up the cost quickly, and that is the chain. You need to take a ruler and check for wear, then factor in the cost of a chain and freewheel if too worn. Measuring Chain Wear
The Bridgestone is overpriced, as I think that is their low end model. Unfortunately it's getting to be the wrong time of year, but garage sales usually yield better deals than CL.
These bikes were generally built with parallel tubes or close to it, so you can see that the head tube is canted more vertical than it probably was originally. That will change the handling somewhat and also reduce the clearance between your toes and the front wheel. I would say you need to ride it and see if it pulls to one side and if the handling and toe clearance is acceptable. Otherwise it's a decent bike, but one other thing can up the cost quickly, and that is the chain. You need to take a ruler and check for wear, then factor in the cost of a chain and freewheel if too worn. Measuring Chain Wear
The Bridgestone is overpriced, as I think that is their low end model. Unfortunately it's getting to be the wrong time of year, but garage sales usually yield better deals than CL.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 09-22-13 at 07:19 AM.







